battery corrosion questions

I've been fighting battery corrosion for a long time. Lately it has gotten so bad that it was sometimes hard starting the engine, and then today the positive cable broke off at the terminal. It was corroded all the way through and I had to go over 2 inches back to get to relatively clean copper.

So, a couple of questions:

1. First, is it true that the cause (or contributing factor) is the winch cables bolted on the side of the terminals? I had a YJ for 5 years that had the same winch setup and I don't remember corrosion problems on it. I've had this XJ for 10 years now and have had a bad corrosion problem from the beginning.

2. I've used those felt pad thingies for the last 5 years at least, without noticeable effect, although I guess it could have been even worse without them. This time I also used that insulating grease all over the outside of the terminals. Has anybody used it and does it help prevent corrosion?

3. Is corrosion like rust where if you don't clean off all the old rust, it comes back faster?

4. As a temp measure, I am using one of those bolt-down terminals, with no soldering. I cut back the cables until I got to relatively clean wire, although there's a little corrosion still at that point (I was running out of wire). I had to go back over 2 inches on the main power cable and over 3 inches on the winch cable, but the cable to the fuse block had very little corrosion. I put all three connections under the bolt down plate, so there's nothing bolted on the side any more, and I screwed down the little plate just as tight as it would go. Then I slathered lots of insulating grease all over the outside, and then wrapped all the connections in electrical tape. Does that sound like it should last a while? Any over/under bets on when the corrosion will come back?

5. Does anybody make a good aftermarket wiring harness that's made to fit? I tried to get one from the stealership but what they gave me doesn't fit. I took it back and they said that the original 92 one had been discontinued but the one they gave me was supposed to fit (I think he said it was the 93 replacement cable).

Check with Jon (5-90) he would be your best source for this type information.
www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/ is his website I think. Look at his electrical upgrades section. He makes up cables and has a solution for your specific Jeep.
Use vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) to coat your wires and battery posts with. Check it everytime you check your oil. (thats my routine) and recoat as needed.
Never tried it myself but have been told that you can clean the corrosion off with Coca Cola. I wouldn't doubt it because it is acidic I believe (never touch the stuff) it burns my kids stomach if they drink too much of it.

I'll start....

1: Possibly. I've noticed similar problems with a piggyback connection for the snowplow pump on my chevy truck. More important, though, is probably the combination of heavy current draw and high recharge rates. If you're using the winch a lot, and recharging with a high output alternator, you'll have more corrosion than we grocery getters get.

2: I've always had good results with vaseline. You can get a big jar of generic vaseline at a dollar store, and coat the terminals with it. Coat the battery posts with it before clamping the cables on. It won't bother the connection, but it will help prevent corrosion. Long ago some mechanic told me that vaseline is slightly alkaline, and that's why it works so well. I don't know if that's true, but it does work and it's cheap.

3: Yes.

4: Should last a while, but you have to make sure the clamps are really tight and the wire isn't already corroded. It's hard to get them tight enough without stripping them or distorting the clamps.

5: I think "5-90," who posts here, is fabricating heavy duty cable sets and selling them. It might be worth looking him up.

KYXJDriver said:

You can take baking soda mixed with warm tap water and it will remove the corrosion. One all has been removed coat the terminals and all with vaseline. It worked for me till my battery finally died then I replaced it with one of the gel cells and havent had any issues.

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Windex seems to work well at neutralizing battery acid too. We us it at work to clean our hands after changing the industrial truck batteries all the time.

Quick and simple solution I picked up from an old motorpool wrench...

Clean your battery terminals and clamps thoroly. I mean it. Don't leave any corrosion anywhere - replace hardware if you have to, and clean out the holes for it. Note the worst spots.

Get out the rubber cement and a handful of pennies. Stick the pennies (using the rubber cement) near the terminals that you noted as the "worst offenders.) Newer pennies will work better than older ones, and they'll work even better if you scratch or score them first.

Why This Works:
The penny becomes what is called a "sacrificial anode" - corrosion is usually an electrochemical reaction, where the anode is literally eaten away by the action. A "sacrifical anode" is a chunk of a metal that is slightly more reactive than the stuff you don't want to corrode, and you don't care if it does corrode (because losing it won't cause you any harm.)

The copper (older pennies) or zinc (newer pennies) is more reactive than the lead in your battery clamps, and the zinc in newer pennies is more reactive than the copper in your cables and in brass terminals and copper lugs. That's why you are scratching the coating on pennies - newer pennies (~15 years old or less, I think) are zinc slugs with a copper wash, and you're exposing the zinc slug. (Trivia - zinc slugs are also used as sacrificial anodes in marine applications, plumbing, and cooling systems.)

You'll want to check the pennies about monthly. The rubber cement should scrape off handily, and you just daub some more on when you stick a new penny on. You can also use hot glue, if you have that handy. Just make sure the adhesive is not RPT not permanent...

If your terminals and cables are badly corroded, I do offer "better than OEM" replacements (according to people who have dealt with me,) and I'd be happy to help you as well. I also do custom work - which we can discuss backchannel. I normally will reply to any emails within 24 hours - but I've been having an awful lot of computer trouble (I'll be setting my autoresponder shortly,) so it may take me a little longer for the next week or two...

The 80 Oldsmobile in the garage has a battery with side terminals. No corrision on those so I doubt that's the cause.

Are the felt pads solely for reducing corrosion? When I replaced my battery I set those felt pads aside. I haven't had any corrosion although I do coat my battery terminals with grease before sliding the clamp down.

Blaine B. said:

Are the felt pads solely for reducing corrosion?

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I don't think so. As I understand it, their main purpose is to prevent any spill or overflow of battery-acid from attacking the battery-tray. The pads are impregnated with some kind of acid-neutraliser.

Of course once acid has spilled and eaten into the tray, rust will then begin, so in that sense they do prevent corrosion too...

br1anstorm

I'll throw it my 2c's I've had corrosion problems like everyone else. I think it is caused by the sulfuric acid leaching up around the posts, once it reaches the the iron bolts and lead terminals (dissimilar metals) you have a galvanic engine.Mad corrosion. I've noticed it is more of a problem in cheaper batteries. I always use grease on my terminals most important areas are where the posts exit the battery top.
Here's what I do.
1)To clean up the existing corrosion I always make a paste with baking soda and water and use an old toothbrush and scrub away.Rinse with a ton of water when your done.
2)Use a small wire brush to clean terminals and posts .
3)Apply a good coat of grease around the posts especially at the base.
4) Hook up terminals and grease them.
5) Remember batteries might be no maintenance on the inside but they are HIGH maintenance on the outside.

5-90 said:

Quick and simple solution I picked up from an old motorpool wrench...

Stick the pennies (using the rubber cement) near the terminals...

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Wow, talk about quick and easy. My favorite.

Should the pennies touch the terminals?

I do need to get new cables. I'll be sending you an email soon. I also have a related question for you.

92xjsp said:

Wow, talk about quick and easy. My favorite.

Should the pennies touch the terminals?

I do need to get new cables. I'll be sending you an email soon. I also have a related question for you.

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No - about a half-inch to an inch away will make them easier to inspect and/or replace. It's not necessary for them to touch (and it makes the risk of something falling on the battery and shorting it out greater anyhow.)

Oh - there's nothing wrong with using the side terminals on dual-post batteries - for light loads! I'd not go any farther than 100A total constant draw, or you run the risk of melting the terminals right out of the case.

Don't bother using them for winching - there's a very good chance you'll melt the terminals right out of the case, and I've spent quite a bit of time on the phone with Warn and Ramsey gathering data (unrelated) and they gave me the same information. Side posts are all right for radios and lighting, but nothing heavy...

Winching draw should always go to a top post, no two ways about it. You're looking at pulling 250-500A at a shot there, and that means heat.

May be relevant, maybe not, but some of my batteries seem to vent acid vapor when hard used. The vapor settles on the top of the battery. Sure seems to promote corrosion. I've even seen (heard) the battery crackle as some current passes through the vapor coating, when the motor is off.
I wash off the battery and tray area every time I pressure wash the Jeep. Even if I'm not planning on a full motor wash.
You can mix a little baking soda or wood ash (yup right out of the fireplace) with your Vaseline. I usually coat the clamp and terminal after assembly. I try to get as much clean metal to metal contact as possible between the clamp and pole. 3M pads work well for cleaning the poles and inside the clamps, I then spray with brake cleaner, assemble and coat. I keep a few fairly fine paint brushes around, just for this purpose.