aftermarket Motor mounts?

are aftermarket motor mounts much better than new stock ones? it doesnt seem there can be that much difference... the metal on mine is fine but the rubber is gone...

any thoughts?

Rubber are fine, polly just make the whole jeep vibrate like hell

more makes a rubber and poly mount that is simple but sturdy - with my header i like the insurance of having as little torque as possible

the poly does send a few more vibrations through the body - for a DD it will feel like the engine is misfiring and if you can live with sure go ahead the poly will outlast the rubber 10 fold - i have gotten used to the rumbles/ vibrations

my jeep had 90k before i replaced them and they were totally shot - do it once and do it right

aparke4 said:

more makes a rubber and poly mount that is simple but sturdy - with my header i like the insurance of having as little torque as possible

the poly does send a few more vibrations through the body - for a DD it will feel like the engine is misfiring and if you can live with sure go ahead the poly will outlast the rubber 10 fold - i have gotten used to the rumbles/ vibrations

my jeep had 90k before i replaced them and they were totally shot - do it once and do it right

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Love my M.O.R.E mounts! They have more vibs, but nothing that drives me crazy.

Just a thought and I could be wrong but if the factory rubber motor mounts last roughly 90,000 and produce less vibes wouldnt it be better to run them since it takes most many years to reach that kind of mileage versus being stuck with the vibes for the rest of the life of the vehichle?

OEM mounts= 25$ shipped on Ebay.
Thats where I got mine.

It might take 90k miles to wear out a stock mount on a street rig, but if you do any serious off-roading, then it wont take long to toast a mount or 2.
I just replaced my engine and noticed that I had 1 worn mount and 1 busted mount. The broken one caused my exhaust to break so badly, that the last 2 down tubes were broke all the way around and the manifold twisted a little. So, in a nutshell I would seriuosly consider aftermarket mounts.
I went with these http://www.browndogindustries.com/ They were alot cheaper than the MORE mounts and installed like a champ. I dont know about the vibes yet becouse I am not done hooking up the rest of the engine crap from the swap. But atleast its only 20 bucks to rebuild them if they wear out.

Use stock mounts and a torque strap.
A short cable that runs from engine to frame. A few cable clamps your done. Just leave the cable a little long. To let the motor vibe a bit without transmitting it to the body. But when you get on it hard the cable pulls tight taking the stress off the mounts. The best of both worlds and cheap to.
Also check your trany mount too.

badron said:

Use stock mounts and a torque strap.
A short cable that runs from engine to frame. A few cable clamps your done. Just leave the cable a little long. To let the motor vibe a bit without transmitting it to the body. But when you get on it hard the cable pulls tight taking the stress off the mounts. The best of both worlds and cheap to.
Also check your trany mount too.

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any pictures?

any pictures?
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Sorry I hate camera a lot and diggy camera the most. Just look under the hood of 1/2 of the cars at the 1/4.

Got mine at this place: http://www.browndogoffroad.com/

Kinda pricey, but wasn't too keen on putting factory ones back in, after seeing the remains of the ones I replaced.

Just my $.02. Not saying they're better, but just letting everyone know they're out there. I believe they sell replacement polyurethane bushings, if they ever go bad.

another vote for the M.O.R.E mounts they are super strong and will never have to be replaced as well. I get minimal vibes from them and its a little more when the A/C is cranking but peace of mind is worth it. I also got a cracked header from not replacing the mounts quick enough when they went bad

One thing that folks often overlook is flex in the unibody in the engine compartment area which stresses motor mounts. Most stock framed rigs have a crossmember under the motor, your XJ does not. On my last XJ, I fabbed a trackbar bracket brace/crossmember (RE now builds a bolt-on unit show below)
that tied the uni-frame rails together. I immediately noticed an improvement in steering response (less flex) and never had another motor mount issue failure in 80k miles, after replacing with original stock units.

On another note, my theory on the stock mounts is that they have a design flaw that leads to premature failure.The strap of metal that arches over the rubber mount does nothing to prevent stretching of the rubber to the point that the metal tube that the horizontal bolt passes through will tear free.

A simple solution is to buy some polyurethane roofing sealer from Home Depot and before you install new motor mounts, pump the void between the rubber mount and the metal strap full of poly. Let them cure for a few days before you install. This will prevent the overstretching of the rubber without adding unneccessary vibrations that are inherent with full poly MORE-style mounts.

If you are going to run your rig in a JeepSpeed-like fashion, beefing up the mount plate that bolts to the engine block is a must too, in addition to the crossmember and beefed mounts.

this is true - with the flex on the front of the frame and the lack of crossmember the mounts do take more stress than normal - for me one of my mounts - stock - was busted and i mean toast from the torque of the engine pulling to that side - it was bad enough that my other mount did not take hardly any beating and was in ok shape when i pulled it - replacing the mounts with the more units definatly saved my new banks header and my old manifold had the classic craxk near the collector - i went with poly to have long durability and less movement - i can get over the vibs it is a jeep after all

more does make some other motor mount tie ins for the other mounts as seen here

from mountainoffroad.com
BombProof Block Brackets
for 91-2001 XJ's with the 4.0L engines
The factory block brackets are retained w/ 3 bolts, We have seen many cases where the bolts come loose or break causing the engine to fall. Sometimes this will also damage the block ( Threaded Bosses ) . We have come up with a replacement bracket that will bolt on using 7-8 existing threaded holes on the side of the block.
*Note: Will not work with aftermarket headers

thats what turned me off was the *note with my new header

i have not seen these but would think that that would be the ultimate system but are a little pricey - as for poly tranny mounts the poly motor mounts for me are fine - the poly under your tranny will drive you nuts - use OEM rubber there i got rid of my poly in 2 days

AZRockRunner said:

I went with these http://www.browndogindustries.com/

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That is a bada$$ looking set. I wonder if these fit well with MORE mounts?

krelja said:

another vote for the M.O.R.E mounts they are super strong and will never have to be replaced as well. I get minimal vibes from them and its a little more when the A/C is cranking but peace of mind is worth it. I also got a cracked header from not replacing the mounts quick enough when they went bad

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are these the ones you're talking about?

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1784?osCsid=ca1504a53df7cc8cfd5e8cc53bca0511

These are the ones they are made of "torsion rubber" which is supposed to be a little more forgiving than the poly but not as soft as the OEM ones

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/cata.../1782?osCsid=9c99162bd98d4acb9ca3d1d7947ab6b6

You know.....Im going for MORE, a lil vibration but worth the money. Did raise the engine a bit, but had no problems with the hood. MORE all the wareace:

I installed the set from Brown Dog and love them! Way beefier than stock, and the vibes are noticeable, but not too bad. Here's a pic for reference.