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collant bottle

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
89 xj 4.0


the gasket under the cap on the coolant bottle of my xj is not sealing and letting the tank bleed off pressure.Will this cause my jeep to run hotter than it's supposed to?

It's been running a little hot while crawling and when I pop the hood I can hear the bottle hissing.
 
jeepdeepfreak said:
89 xj 4.0


the gasket under the cap on the coolant bottle of my xj is not sealing and letting the tank bleed off pressure.Will this cause my jeep to run hotter than it's supposed to?

It's been running a little hot while crawling and when I pop the hood I can hear the bottle hissing.
Click to expand...
Yes, leaks in your closed system will cause it to over heat...
 
dealer will hose you, they quoted me about $75 for bottle and cap.
Quadratec has one for $18 with the cap
4WD Hardware has one for like $25. I'm pretty sure they're both crown automotive, I just got the quadratec one, it seems fine, I've had it on my junk for 3 days now. It had a Crown automotive sticker on the bag.
4wdhardware is in columbiana, so it will get to Columbus fast with ground shipping.
 
Do a search on 'surge tanks' I posted a bunch of links for plastic, aluminum and brass ones a few months ago when I came across them while I was looking for something else. Eagle used one from summit racing, aluminum and takes a normal rad pressure cap.. Thats what they are called by the way 'surge tanks' and were common on fords in the early 60's, now they are coming back as it allows for smaller radiators w/o tanks on them...
 
If you do end up replacing the cap with an OEM Jeep one, make sure you don't overtighten it. It's a poor design (that's poor spelled with a P and O and an S), and if you tighten it a little too much the gasket creeps and fails to seal.
 
Matthew Currie said:
If you do end up replacing the cap with an OEM Jeep one, make sure you don't overtighten it. It's a poor design (that's poor spelled with a P and O and an S), and if you tighten it a little too much the gasket creeps and fails to seal.
Click to expand...

If I had a closed system that would be one of the first improvements I would make, a good quality surge tank that takes a normal radiator cap. Alot of VW's have those plastic POS's too.
 
So I went to napa and got a cap.It freakin leaks,so I think the problem is in the neck...or maybe the new cap is a pos.I'll probably go with a aluminum tank.This way I won't have to carry a spare oem tank on the trail in case the plastic ruptures.
 
Last time I replaced the bottle and cap, the cap never would stay tight. Everytime it popped loose, I'd boil over. Since I really needed to replace the radiator, I bought one for a 92 instead and converted to the open setup. An overflow bottle cost me $2 from the junk yard. In hindsight the overflow bottle is too big at about 1/2 gallon as the level only changes maybe an inch from hot to cold. I was thinking it had to be that big becasue the surge tank always went from near empty to 3/4 full. I should have just grabbed the small 1-qt one from the auto store for $7.

I also replaced the waterpump, upper hose, and lower hose, and thermostat while I had everything apart. I backflushed everything really well, especially the heater core. I eliminated the vacumn valve for the heater core as well (the later XJs don't have em anyway). Zero problems since. The heater works great now and the running temps are rock solid.
 
I never noticed a difference with the temp control in cool. Since I flushed the heater core when I converted, I went from so-so heat to lots of heat in the winter.

Air doesn't flow past the heater core unless you have the temp control over to heat. Here's a picture from the 88 FSM that shows the blend door. In the cool position it bypasses the heater core. I've noticed some of the later models don't even have the coolant valve.


blend_door.jpg
 
find you an aluminum tank on ebay. i found one for less than 20 bucks, it has a real radiator cap with overflow tube. 87 xj runs about 190-200 in this 100 degree temps.
 
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