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Line locks parking brakes.

G

Garden Spyder

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Madhappiness, Kansas
I am in Northern Ohio for some training and slipped up to the Summit Racing store. I was in search of some line locks to lock the brakes in place while 4 wheeling because I feel like 4 brakes locked in place on a steep incline would likely hold my XJ in place better than 2.
The guys there strongly reccommended avoiding the line locks because they are a solenoid that is used for drag racing, momentary if you will. They said that it would burn up and be unreliable.
My parking brake keeps losing adjustment and is same as worthless. I think the cables keep catching on things and stretching out. That is why I am considering the line lock.
The Summit guys said that some are removing the cables that extend back to the brake drums and running a cable from the parking brake lever up to the firewall behind the brake pedal, and using a cable to hold down the brake pedal once you set it. I have not seen this done, does anyone have any advice on this mod or have a better solution?

Thanks in advance.
I appreciate your time.:roll:
 
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_90726_-1

I use two like this on my last rig. I wired them together and used an air shifter electric switch from a big rig. I think it was International but try nappa. The swich got mounted on my gear shifter so I could lock it with my finger and tap it off without taking my hand off the shifter. I used it ever time I stoped it worked so good. Just don't leave it on because it will drain your battery after a while and release. What the guy told you at summit is true and I remember when we researched solinoids there were different kinds. The one he had is for momentary use to do a burn out but the ones Jegs had were a lot higher pressure rated and had no duty cycle. The link I gave you is not the one I used because I could't find it so look them all over carfully. Put line lock in Jegs search and check out summits search also. Remember you need two and if you get creative you can find all the fittings and hardlines at auto parts stores. This was the next best mod on my old CJ next to stretching it ". You will use it all the time and love it when you stop on a hill and then take off like you have an auto transmission. Good luck , do it right if you are really going to install these and enjoy!
 
Rev Den said:
Fix it?

or

http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=43

Rev
Click to expand...
Those are really nice too because you can leave them on for a long while. They are more cumbersom than just flicking an electric switch. Hydrolic brake systems are not recomended to be left under pressur and thats why they use a cable parking break. Not sure why but thats what I heard so don't set it overnight unless you are in a bind if you use that style.
 
Stumpalump said:
Those are really nice too because you can leave them on for a long while. They are more cumbersom than just flicking an electric switch. Hydrolic brake systems are not recomended to be left under pressur and thats why they use a cable parking break. Not sure why but thats what I heard so don't set it overnight unless you are in a bind if you use that style.
Click to expand...

I've heard of them as "micro-locks," they're a manual valve in the hydraulic system for brakes on forklifts as well. You step on the brake, flip the microlock, and you can let the brake off while it's still holding.

The reason for the cable brake on automotive applications is fairly simple - it's done as an independent system. If you lose hydraulics, you still have the handbrake (and you can actually stop with it, if you think a bit and remember to drop into Neutral first...) They quit calling it an "emergency brake" because people would panic and just yank the thing up - then swap ends in a skid. Now, it's either 'park brake' or 'handbrake.'
 
I too have seen them as "micro-locks" on forklifts and in a friends CJ5. His jeep with his wife in it came barreling down a obstical while his micro lock was on, he was pulling down the winch cable to hook up to another rig. The CJ hit a tree head on and his wife was airlifted out to the hospital with major head trama. Inspection of the jeep revealed, busted brake line due to constant pressure over time...................... hence the obstical at Evans Creek (washington) on the 311A "Brake Line". There is a plack we made and hung up with the brakeline on it stating "Always check your brake lines". Might just be one reason not to use them
 
Hey!! good info here, You have given me enough info now to make my decision to not use them.
What is your guys opinion of shutting the XJ off in first gear and transfer case in low and letting the engine hold it in place? Bad Idea or safe enough?
 
Garden Spyder said:
Hey!! good info here, You have given me enough info now to make my decision to not use them.
What is your guys opinion of shutting the XJ off in first gear and transfer case in low and letting the engine hold it in place? Bad Idea or safe enough?
Click to expand...

Doing that combined with using a properly functioning emergency brake would be a good idea. Otherwise it is a bad idea.....
 
My electric line locks worked perfect for 4 years of hard wheeling. They have a built in 1 way valve so you can set them to stop and if you want to get out you just leave it locked and push hard on the pedal to add more pressure. Anything can fail and I would not jump out on a hill while the engine is running and in neuatral. When you are locked in 4 wd and in gear the front and rear drive shafts will hold unless it pops out of gear. You will love an electric line lock. The harder you push the harder they lock.
 
Stumpalump said:
My electric line locks worked perfect for 4 years of hard wheeling. They have a built in 1 way valve so you can set them to stop and if you want to get out you just leave it locked and push hard on the pedal to add more pressure. Anything can fail and I would not jump out on a hill while the engine is running and in neuatral. When you are locked in 4 wd and in gear the front and rear drive shafts will hold unless it pops out of gear. You will love an electric line lock. The harder you push the harder they lock.
Click to expand...

Untill a brake line busts........... like i have said. Been there, done that. Brakes were not meant to have constant pressure put on them like a "mico-lock" does.
 
Line locks work good but its easy to overpressure a system with them. The one my dad has on his drag car only holds fluid back one way. He has a brake pressure guage so we have seen what it can do. Pushing the brake will see about 600-700psi if I remember correctly. You can set the line lock and it will hold that pressure. BUT if you push the brake pedal down again it adds to it. If you wanted to you could pump the brakes with the line lock engaged and bust every fitting on the car. It got to 1400psi with just two pumps. So if you had your line lock set and for whatever reason pushed the brake again it could kill a rubber hose easy.
 
My 2nd XJ was hit on the trail because somebody decided that electric line locks were equal to an emergency brake. I won't get anywhere near a Jeep with electric line locs as a "Parking brake".

Even when manufactures went to a disc system, they found an alternative methode to lock the brakes. Either a mechanical plunger in the disc assembly (Mits) or a drum inside the disc (Jeep and others). This provides a backup system incase of primary brake system failure (like that never happens on the trail, right?).

I like the idea of the mechanically operated Line-Loc, but, as they advertise it, it is in addition to, not a replacement for the mechanical application of the shoes/pads to the braking surface.
 
A line lock won't increase the pressure in the brake lines any more than what they see in normal operation....it will just make the lines experience that pressure for an abnormal period of time. Standard brake systems these days see pressures upwards of 2000 psi under normal operation.

I agree a line lock shouldn't be used as the sole method of holding a vehicle...the slightest leak or change in line volume can pretty much reduce the pressure enough the brakes won't hold anymore.

There are also mechanically engaged line locks which eliminate the electrical issues however they still have the same safety issues when it comes to redundancy in the brake system.
 
Bender said:
A line lock won't increase the pressure in the brake lines any more than what they see in normal operation....it will just make the lines experience that pressure for an abnormal period of time. Standard brake systems these days see pressures upwards of 2000 psi under normal operation.
Click to expand...

The one I have expierience with will. It would increase the pressure dramaticly if you pressed the brake again with the line lock engaged. Brake pressure gauge gave us alot of insight on that.
 
BlueCuda said:
The one I have expierience with will. It would increase the pressure dramaticly if you pressed the brake again with the line lock engaged. Brake pressure gauge gave us alot of insight on that.
Click to expand...
A line lock is a simple device. It is basically a valve that closes off your break line. You have to push the break pedal and close the valve. It will only hold the break pressure that you put on the system with your foot. As a safty device it also has a one way bypass valve. That way if the line is locked while you are moving you can add pressure to the breaking system and it will hold that pressure. You can add pressure but you can't take away pressure while it is locked. It is no more or no less than a valve to hold brake fluid with a one way bypass to add pressure if you want or need to. You can get two types. Electrical solinoid actuated valve or a manual you throw the lever valve. Same principle different way to close the valve.
They are made to be used while driving and stoping. Not as an emergency or parking break. A fool would use one as a primary source to hold the vehicle and get out. They work great on hills with a clutch. Great like a hand throttle to get you going from a stop on a hill with a manual transmission. And if you don't have a spotter to run your winch cable you can secure your vehicle in gear ,engine off,set the cable parking break untill it won't roll. You then may experiance some piece of mind momentarily jumping out knowing your primarry breaking system is also pressurized.
 
Last edited:
Stumpalump said:
A line lock is a simple device. It is basically a valve that closes off your break line. You have to push the break pedal and close the valve. It will only hold the break pressure that you put on the system with your foot. As a safty device it also has a one way bypass valve. That way if the line is locked while you are moving you can add pressure to the breaking system and it will hold that pressure. You can add pressure but you can't take away pressure while it is locked. It is no more or no less than a valve to hold brake fluid with a one way bypass to add pressure if you want or need to. You can get two types. Electrical solinoid actuated valve or a manual you throw the lever valve. Same principle different way to close the valve.
They are made to be used while driving and stoping. Not as an emergency or parking break. A fool would use one as a primary source to hold the vehicle and get out. They work great on hills with a clutch. Great like a hand throttle to get you going from a stop on a hill with a manual transmission. And if you don't have a spotter to run your winch cable you can secure your vehicle in gear ,engine off,set the cable parking break untill it won't roll. You then may experiance some piece of mind momentarily jumping out knowing your primarry breaking system is also pressurized.
Click to expand...

I realize that. I have done this with a brake pressure guage, and I could go and bust every fitting on my dads race car if I wanted to. With the linelock you were able to add more pressure than you could with just your foot alone. I could see someone cramming the brake on as hard ad they can for an e-brake, then for some reason depressing the brake pedal again....this could cause problems with rubber lines. I know it caused problems with aeroquip steel braided teflon hose and AN fittings. This may not be the case with a smaller master cylinder as his car has a large one on it and it could be the reason.
 
BlueCuda said:
I realize that. I have done this with a brake pressure guage, and I could go and bust every fitting on my dads race car if I wanted to. With the linelock you were able to add more pressure than you could with just your foot alone. I could see someone cramming the brake on as hard ad they can for an e-brake, then for some reason depressing the brake pedal again....this could cause problems with rubber lines. I know it caused problems with aeroquip steel braided teflon hose and AN fittings. This may not be the case with a smaller master cylinder as his car has a large one on it and it could be the reason.
Click to expand...
With the lock on you can release you foot from the breaks and hold the pressure.If you hit the break again you pump in more pressure. Like a bike pump on a tire. The more pumps the higher the pressure. I see how you could over do it and not realize it so a good understanding is critical for safe use. Thanks for bringing that up. Might just save sombodys.......Jeep.
 
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