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NSS sort of works

C

chipw

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tucson, AZ
So, I went for my emissions test, it failed with codes 700 and 705 - neutral safety switch doesn't work. I found a post in here about cleaning it, so I did that, got it back on and started up the XJ, the check engine light is off, until I shift into gear, then it comes on. Turn off motor, turn on motor, no light, shift into gear, light comes on. Every time. Weird. It's a '98 XJ Sport, 4.0, 4x4. Is my NSS simply bad?
 
That's a hard one. The 98' doesn't spit out codes without a reader and the Transmission controller is part of the main ECU and not separate like previous years.

I guess I would backtrack and re- examine your selector switch assembly (NSS), and make sure it is clean and went back together correctly. Also I'd re-examine the plug.
 
hey, take your gauge cluster out of the dash. then, remove the light bulb from the check engine light piece. then go to emissions. if it isn't shooting out a check engine light, they won't check for trouble codes. at least, that's how I've been informed they work.

my emissions is just the exhaust fumes, and safety inspection isn't something I've had to do.
 
hmm, not sure if that will work, seemed like the tech (can he be called that?) pluged in the scanner without seeing the light on, but I could be wrong there.

One thing I'm not sure about in the instructions I found linked in another post - it says to spray the thing with white lithium grease, does that mean the whole insides includeing the contact? I got the contacts nice and clean, shiny copper, almost like new. There was obvious wear though.

Hmm, now that I'm thinking about it, the contacts in the wiper arm where flush with the plastic around them. Should I have pulled the contacts out just a bit?
 
Many places plug in the scanner, especially if they don't see the light breifly when they turn the ignition on. Besides, based on the Codes you know the problem is a dirty NSS. Just fix it. Do a search and you'll find a few really good writeups.
 
As I wrote above, I did fix it according to the writeup I found on this forum, whence my new questions in my previous post. Have you been through this, fixing the nss and all was fine afterwards?
 
you just put the lithium grease on all of the copper connections to keep them from corroding and keeping wear down. I would pull the light to get my emissions done and then troubleshoot it. Legally they cannot just go plugging scanners and such to your car without your consent. They are not trained mechanics or trained for such a display. Also if they were then the code they got that was aimed towards NSS would have not mattered to emissions control and your rig would have passed and you wouldnt be here blah blah
 
Are you sure you aligned the NSS correctly? Before you tighten down the retaining nut there's the adjustment nut at the top. Gives some play for the sensor to move back and forth. Then you tighten it down, followed by the retaining nut.

Check the www.jeepin.com how-to articles to find out more about the NSS!
 
PornstaR said:
Legally they cannot just go plugging scanners and such to your car without your consent. They are not trained mechanics or trained for such a display. Also if they were then the code they got that was aimed towards NSS would have not mattered to emissions control and your rig would have passed and you wouldnt be here blah blah
Click to expand...

They of course are not legally obligated to pass you. Depending on the state, they will fail you if the check engine light doesn't come on briefly at startup (meaning you pulled the bulb) or if the light is illuminated (meaning a possible emissions issue).

For Chip, I suspect you either didn't do an adequate job cleaning up the sensor (I usually use a little sandpaper and silicon grease) or it is not aligned properly. I've done three and all worked perfectly afterwards.
 
lawsoncl said:
For Chip, I suspect you either didn't do an adequate job cleaning up the sensor (I usually use a little sandpaper and silicon grease) or it is not aligned properly. I've done three and all worked perfectly afterwards.
Click to expand...

Well, today I ordered a new one. As for the cleaning - I did use a super fine sandpaper and the terminals were indeed very clean. I noticed though they were also very worn, to the point where some of them were below the level of the metal they were set into, looking like the contacts in the wiper would not be able to make contact with them. I think it's just too worn to be useable. Plus, I really don't want to crawl around in the dirt anymore, except to put in a new one.
 
I use the sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the contacts flat again. I also degrease everything so the little springs are free and the contacts floating.

I can certainly understand the desire to avoid crawling around under there as it's a little tight to get to.
 
the contacts on the arm are on a spring. you need to remove them from the arm (careful, don't lose the springs), and clean them. they are supposed to have a constant pressure to their contact points as a result of free-motion here. easy as pie, clean'r'up and then put dialectic grease in it after you spray it with an electrical-type spray cleaner. re-assemble, and adjust as necessary to get it to work. also, check the upper connection for cleanliness.

the check engine light doesn't seem to have anything to do with the problem you are having to me.
 
It seems to me, you didn't clean out the springs and the pocket they sit in from your posts. And I would not use lithium grease. I used dielectric grease on mine, and on a friends when his developed the same problem. Both are and have been working like a new unit.

You also need to make sure it is adjusted correctly. The first time I put mine on, it wasn't and it didn't work right.

For 149 bucks, I'd do a lot of crawling in the dirt !!! Maybe I'm just a cheap bastard tho.
 
I crawled back under that thing and removed the switch again. This time I removed the two contacts from the wiper arm and removed the springs. Got all cleaned up real nice, they push in and out easily. Put the unit back on the rig and still have the light showing. Tried adjusting the unit a bit, but no good. I'm just not gonna bother with it anymore and just put the new one on when it arrives this week. Some of the contacts in the body of the unit are worn down, recessed beyond the surface surrounding them. I think its just too far gone.
 
the check engine light would NOT be attatched to the NSS in my experience. you probably have an engine problem or a bad switch elsewhere, unless the diagnostic scanner is telling you NSS.

how did you decide it was the NSS causing the problem?
 
Can anyone tell me the web address that has the instructions to remove and servive the NSS? I had one bookmarked, but my PC went out in a storm and it got lost. I knew I should've printed it out when I had the chance.

Thanks
 
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