Ford 8.8 + ARB opinions

I know I should could post this is in the mod forum, but I trust the opinions around here a bit more and some of it pertains to local information.

I plan to swap my rear axel some time this year (hopefully before calico in november) and all my research has lead me to think the Ford 8.8 out of a 96+ Explorer with disc brakes will be the best option for me. Since the axels arnt super expensive I was also thinking I would put an ARB in with 4.54(Im sure im using the wrong number again) gears. The biggest issue I had with the 8.8 is that it is still a C-Clip axel, but supposedly with disk breaks the caliper will hold the axel in so you can still limp it off the trail and do repairs somewhere sane (like a mechanics shop in borego that hangs around these here forums).
At any rate, does anyone have any strong opinions on this option, good or bad? I found M.O.R.E. has a kit with the spring perches and shock mounts for about 120$ and thats about the only aditional thing I can think cost wise beyond gears and locker.

The 8.8 should already have a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, and I obviously would put in 4.56 gears in the D30 front at the same time (perhaps a limited slip as well)

So opinions appricated, and then the 2nd question, how much of this can be done by myself/with help from local guys who have welders and experience? It seems like a pretty strait forward swap on paper. But I don't want to take it to joe schmoe axel shop and get charged an arm and a leg for the assembly of it, not to mention it seems like downtime would be best used if I can do the swap and welding in the same location.

Anyways let me know what you guys think about this plan of action and if I have any seriously gaping holes in it.

Only running 32" tires btw, but I do plan eventualy to put 33" on at the very least once these wear out.

-Mongo

This doesn't apply to SoCal.

I was never able to break my 8.8 on 35s and I hammered the shit out of it and had stock shafts. Your brake caliper brakets would fold if you broke a shaft and continued to drive on it.

The only thing you will need from M.O.R.E. is the e-brake cables. Otherwise you can get the brackets from anywhere.

IF I were to do it all over again, I would never think twice about getting an 8.8. Mine worked out incredible well.

Dont forget about the Drive Shaft adapter from M.O.R.E.!

Do you really need the e-brake cables from them? Last time i looked they were really $$$$, why not get some out of a 95 wrangler?

cracker said:

This doesn't apply to SoCal.

I was never able to break my 8.8 on 35s and I hammered the shit out of it and had stock shafts. Your brake caliper brakets would fold if you broke a shaft and continued to drive on it.

The only thing you will need from M.O.R.E. is the e-brake cables. Otherwise you can get the brackets from anywhere.

IF I were to do it all over again, I would never think twice about getting an 8.8. Mine worked out incredible well.

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You don't need the drive shaft adapter (called a companion flange). One can use the one that came with the explorer. It is 1330 BUT Spicer makes a conversion joint that is 1330 on one end and 1310 on the other so one can use a 1310 driveline with no issue.

The e-brake cables can be sourced many places. I use the M.O.R.E and they are just perfect.

I did the Super 88 kit--no more worries about C clips, and the extra length puts it back to just about stock XJ width.

OX locker dosn't offer the 8.8 OX locker with the super strong housing cover. It comes only in aluminium for the Mustang crowd. I think the best bang for the buck is a powertrax no-slip because you don't have to change your carrier to change gears. This makes gear change and build up a easy DIY project.

Stumpalump said:

I think the best bang for the buck is a powertrax no-slip because you don't have to change your carrier to change gears. This makes gear change and build up a easy DIY project.

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???

I think he is talking about the stock limited slip that comes in some of the 8.8s, but thats not a locker and certainly not ARB/OX

cracker said:

This doesn't apply to SoCal.

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Heh I forgot to include the part about local shops etc.

MongoXJ said:

I think he is talking about the stock limited slip that comes in some of the 8.8s, but thats not a locker and certainly not ARB/OX

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No, I was talking about removing the limited grip and istalling the powertrax in the old carrier.This way you dont have to mess with the carrier bearings just the shims if you change gears. This would make a ring and pinion locker combination as easy as possible for a DIY'er. You can get a powertrax no-slip to fit an 8.8 open or limited slip carrier. Thats a big reason I ditched my 8.25 because I knew I could do the build up fairly easily on an 8.8. ARB's are the best but at what cost and hassle to install compaired to just a ring and pinion with the most basic install kit plus a locker.

I have the 8.8 ARB with 4.46 and MORE brakelines. When you get the perches get the ones that add a little lift. Weld the tubes to the housing for sure. I bought mine like this, but damn its good!!:clap:

The 8.8 is great. I run it with a detroit. No issues as of yet. Forget the more e-brake cables they cost to much. Search around there are a ton of solutions for it. We have like 7 guys running them and no one has messed one up yet. I am thinking of doing the supe8 kit but have not had a reason to yet so I keep waiting. We pound the heck out of them and they just hold up.

IH8RDS said:

I have the 8.8 ARB with 4.56 and MORE brakelines. When you get the perches get the ones that add a little lift. Weld the tubes to the housing for sure. I bought mine like this, but damn its good!!:clap:

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Fixed it :eeks1:

Going to flog it at Crozet tommorrow :firedevil

Thanks for the opinions guys, considering the kind of stuff I do with my truck, I doubt I would stand a chance of breaking anything unless i started pretending I was jeep speed and jumping it

Deffinatly think once I get some money saved up in the next couple months will be the thing to do and I will be much better off with it.

Out of curiosity, when I do my front should I just re-gear and leave it open or put a limited slip/locker into it and new shafts and truss it? The debates between a beefy D30 and a D44 Front seems split.

-Mongo

i read on here more than one of you went 4.56...did anyone else have to grind the center pin or ring teeth to fit the gears on?

the teeth covered the hole some..was mine just odd?

Are you talking about the 8.8 or D30?

Thats normal for the 8.8

Yoda said:

i read on here more than one of you went 4.56...did anyone else have to grind the center pin or ring teeth to fit the gears on?

the teeth covered the hole some..was mine just odd?

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