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Power window switch issue

B

Bzamora

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA
I couldn't find this in a search so I'll ask. The passenger side power window switch in my '99 occasionally fails to work. The thing is, after I use the master switch on the driver's side to move the window the passenger's switch will suddenly work again. Has anybody come across this anomaly, and if so what was the solution? Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks, I'll try that since I have to take off the passenger door panel anyway. Ever since I replaced the window regulator assembly the window rolls up and down slow compared to the others.
 
You sure it's not the window lock button malfunctioning? They tend to do that. Next time the pass side one stops working, check both rears too.
 
The problem may not be the switch on the passenger side...it maybe a problem with the window switch controls on the driver side.

On my '00 XJ, there is a push-button on the driver side that prevents the passenger side switch from opening the window (or closing it)...comes in handy when you've just release a stinky one...

Anyway, that push button switch on the driver side controls 'power' to the passenger side window up/down switch.

So, you might try cleaning that push button switch...maybe some contact cleaner or replacing it with a new one.

BTW, isn't there a LED light on the up/down switches...both for driver and passenger? If so, you can check that LED (assuming it is still working) on the passenger switch...if it is lit, it should have power, if not, try pushing the push-button switch on the driver side a few times to see if the affects the LED light on the passenger side...it might help to do this at night.
 
thebrick said:
The problem may not be the switch on the passenger side...it maybe a problem with the window switch controls on the driver side.

On my '00 XJ, there is a push-button on the driver side that prevents the passenger side switch from opening the window (or closing it)...comes in handy when you've just release a stinky one...

Anyway, that push button switch on the driver side controls 'power' to the passenger side window up/down switch.

So, you might try cleaning that push button switch...maybe some contact cleaner or replacing it with a new one.

BTW, isn't there a LED light on the up/down switches...both for driver and passenger? If so, you can check that LED (assuming it is still working) on the passenger switch...if it is lit, it should have power, if not, try pushing the push-button switch on the driver side a few times to see if the affects the LED light on the passenger side...it might help to do this at night.
Click to expand...

You can't really clean just that switch, the whole thing all the switches is one assembly. Keep that in mind when/if you try to remove it. I would definately try cleaning though, and he's right if the leds are on, the window lock switch is off.
 
I initially thought it was a broken wire in the door jamb area as I have really had an issue with that. However, after removing the wiring harnesses from both doors, there was really no issue. My issues started after I removed the door panels and switches when I tinted the windows. I think the master door switch shorted in the process. In looking at Ebay, the master switches almost always go for $50 plus, so I would have to assume that there are many of us with the same issue. For now I continue to put everyone else's windows up and down for them... then say "its just a Jeep thing" and smile.
 
Same problem with my 00 Sport.
More often than not, only the driver's front window switches will work. Neither the rears nor the front passenger will have the LEDs on. Figured it was the window lock switch, but never cared enough about it to fix it. (never really carry any passengers).
 
The problem is with the window lockout switch on the drivers master switch. It's a simple fix by just running a jumper wire to bypass the lockout giving you back power to all 4 windows at their respective switches.
Run a search, someone has a diagram posted of which wire that needs to be spliced into.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm not going to go splicing and jumpering, however. If I can't solve the problem by cleaning the switches I may just look to replace them with new ones. Otherwise, if the cost is prohibitive the "Jeep thing" excuse may be sufficient.:D
 
I have the same problem with my passenger and rear not working with their own switches all the time. My issue also cam up after removing the door panels.

I did notice that I can turn the lockout on and off and the passenger led turns on and off like they should when using that switch, so I was kind of stumped. I figured if the switch was bad then the led's shouldn't go on and off, correct??

Does anyone think that bypassing that switch would actually fix my issue?
 
I actually went through one time and determined the issue using the wiring diagram in the Haynes, if you want when I get home I can post a writeup on this. The issue seems to be either a lose or broken wire in the lockout switch.

The switches operate by having a low voltage at the up and down locations on the switch and the center position being high. When you flip the switch in one direction it allows current to flow through the motor in the proper way to make the window operate. This is a simplified description but its the basic idea.

What the lockout does is it provides either a ground to the center position of the switch, so when you flip the switch up or down there is no difference in charge so no current will flow. If no current flows, no window moves... pretty simple. When the lockout goes, it causes the center to be grounded at all times so only the drivers side switch works to operate the windows. So you can either short the lockout and not have it at all or you can rewire the switch or whatever. Like I said, I will post a bit of a writeup later if you want.

I have to admit, it may be there is a high voltage at top and bottom and low voltage at center, I am unsure w/o the diagram in front of me, but the basic operation is the same, same idea, just different voltages at different spots

Klennop... I dont have the manual in front of me but I can check later to see if there are two different paths controled by the one switch. If there are, then the lockout may still be the issue and only the led path is still working. Otherwise you may have a different issue, somethign to do with the wiring to the rear doors or within the switches themselves. What year is your XJ? That does make a bit of a difference..
 
themangeraaad said:
Klennop... I dont have the manual in front of me but I can check later to see if there are two different paths controled by the one switch. If there are, then the lockout may still be the issue and only the led path is still working. Otherwise you may have a different issue, somethign to do with the wiring to the rear doors or within the switches themselves. What year is your XJ? That does make a bit of a difference..
Click to expand...

I have a 01 Limited. I am just wondering if, like you said a different path that controls the LED's or what. Pretty much like only half of the switch took a crap??If you wouldn't mind looking that would be great.

I forgot to add this before. When I am rolling up the passenger side window from the driver controls, if you use the passenger controls at the same time the window will stop. I just thought that was kind of odd also.

Thanks for the help!
 
Well I knwo frequently in many vehicles, if you use both in opp directions it will stop. If you use both in the same direction... it may be a Jeep thing, but I couldnt tell you for sure. If it is in the same direction that causes it to stop, it definately sounds like there may in fact be a voltage difference, that if you use both they kill eachother off. When I get on lunch I will grab a coffee and look over hte wiring diagrams in the Haynes, I got a copy in the back of the rig so I will see what I can figure out for ya. If not I got a cleaner copy back home I will read through later this evening if I remember. I just gotta figure out where my issue is first... damn wheel bearing assembly or ring in pinion bearing or something... i hate mechanical issues that arise when I dont want to deal with them ;D I will try adn get back to ya by 9 or 10 tonight. If I dont, feel free to shoot me a PM to remind me. Heh
 
themangeraaad said:
Well I knwo frequently in many vehicles, if you use both in opp directions it will stop. If you use both in the same direction... it may be a Jeep thing, but I couldnt tell you for sure. If it is in the same direction that causes it to stop, it definately sounds like there may in fact be a voltage difference, that if you use both they kill eachother off. When I get on lunch I will grab a coffee and look over hte wiring diagrams in the Haynes, I got a copy in the back of the rig so I will see what I can figure out for ya. If not I got a cleaner copy back home I will read through later this evening if I remember. I just gotta figure out where my issue is first... damn wheel bearing assembly or ring in pinion bearing or something... i hate mechanical issues that arise when I dont want to deal with them ;D I will try adn get back to ya by 9 or 10 tonight. If I dont, feel free to shoot me a PM to remind me. Heh
Click to expand...

I understand what you mean about using the switches in opposite directions. However, if you move the passenger control either way it will stop. I am not sure if that is normal? No hurry on looking at the diagram, I have been dealing with it for a little over a week but for some reason this weekend it acted up more than usual.

Thanks Again!
 
Ok, so heres the rundown... if your leds turn on and off... you might have a different problem. Next time the window doesnt operate properly, check if those leds are on. If not, then chances are its your switch and its only making intermittant contact, aka, its on its way out. If the LEDs are on, then either you have a differnet issue or you do have 2 different paths for the flow to run, the wiring diagram only showed one.

Now for "repair".. (keep in mind this is assuming the switch is the issue causing the malfunction)

If you want to keep a lockout switch functional, you have two options. Get a new switch box unit or wire your own switch in.

In the haynes manual, on page 12-28 (I belive it was) there is the wiring diagram incase you want to reference it. But there are at least two possible wiring color schemes. Apparently in all models, the 12V supply voltage is provided via a violet wire. The output of the lockout switch is either a violet or white wire. (if you have two violet wires then those are the two to use, if there is only one violet wire, chances are the other wire to use is the white wire, but no guarentees, this is the conclusion I came to so I think its right) But you will have to run a jumper between these two wires. DO NOT cut the wires as if you cut the 12V source wire you will not have any power at all, and therefore windows will be useless.. Either splice a wire between these yourself by stripping it and going from there, or go to walmart or somewhere that sells some electrical stuff. They may sell clips that splice a wire into other wires (One portion closes over the source wire, while the 2nd wire is closed into another area bridging the connections, sorry for the poor description here, I will try and get a name of the part later). Anyway, you have to wire a jumper between these two wires (the source wire and the output of the lockout switch). If you do that your windows should function properly if this was your problem. If you want, you can include an aftermarket switch in series with this wire to act as the window lockout. Where you locate this switch is up to you though.

I know my buddy has this issue, and I may be heading to his place this afternoon. I will offer to help him with this in order to get photos of the process if he wants to do it.
 
Last edited:
I am 100% positive that my LED's on the passenger switch turn on and off when I press the lock and unlock switch even though the switch will not open or close the window. The reason I know this for sure is because I just noticed it last night.

I may just try and bypass the switch because I found a write up while searching. I would like to keep everything working as it should from the factory but if this many people have this problem then I am sure it may happen again. However if I can find a deal on the switch then I may just put a new one in.

I also know what you are talking about with the clips that splice into a wire but let you connect one to it also. Those work pretty slick.

Hopefully I can try one of these next week, I have a lot going on so we will see.

Thanks again for the help.
 
My 2000 does the same thing. Every now and then the front passenger side window and door lock switch stops working. One night I noticed it was always when the backlights were off on the switches. So my problem is that I lose power to the whole switch assembly. I was able to trace it back to the main connection coming off of the driver side control. For what ever reason the plug does not always want to make a good positive connection on that one pin. I've just kinda let it do it's own thing for now. It's too damn hot out to screw with now.
 
themangeraaad said:
Ok, so heres the rundown... if your leds turn on and off... you might have a different problem. Next time the window doesnt operate properly, check if those leds are on. If not, then chances are its your switch and its only making intermittant contact, aka, its on its way out. If the LEDs are on, then either you have a differnet issue or you do have 2 different paths for the flow to run, the wiring diagram only showed one.

Now for "repair".. (keep in mind this is assuming the switch is the issue causing the malfunction)

If you want to keep a lockout switch functional, you have two options. Get a new switch box unit or wire your own switch in.

In the haynes manual, on page 12-28 (I belive it was) there is the wiring diagram incase you want to reference it. But there are at least two possible wiring color schemes. Apparently in all models, the 12V supply voltage is provided via a violet wire. The output of the lockout switch is either a violet or white wire. (if you have two violet wires then those are the two to use, if there is only one violet wire, chances are the other wire to use is the white wire, but no guarentees, this is the conclusion I came to so I think its right) But you will have to run a jumper between these two wires. DO NOT cut the wires as if you cut the 12V source wire you will not have any power at all, and therefore windows will be useless.. Either splice a wire between these yourself by stripping it and going from there, or go to walmart or somewhere that sells some electrical stuff. They may sell clips that splice a wire into other wires (One portion closes over the source wire, while the 2nd wire is closed into another area bridging the connections, sorry for the poor description here, I will try and get a name of the part later). Anyway, you have to wire a jumper between these two wires (the source wire and the output of the lockout switch). If you do that your windows should function properly if this was your problem. If you want, you can include an aftermarket switch in series with this wire to act as the window lockout. Where you locate this switch is up to you though.

I know my buddy has this issue, and I may be heading to his place this afternoon. I will offer to help him with this in order to get photos of the process if he wants to do it.
Click to expand...

That'd be great - I don't really need the lockout at all, just reliable windows :)
 
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