Questions...

Hi,

'88 XJ Reman 4.0L & AW4

A few Q's:

1. The Plug with wires attached to the AC Drier (next to the top that has the glass window to see freon bubbles when the AC's on). I disconnected the Plug when I was working on the PDC Terminal but now I'm unsure how the Plug is oriented.

It had three prongs but one was broken off probably since the previous owner changed the drier connections. The drier connections only have two spaces for two prongs.

***My Q is which is the correct Plug orientation since it now only has two prongs left? I'm concerned that it may be polarized and if I plug it back in incorrectly I may fry something.

2. I finally got my KRIKIT II Belt Tension Gauge. Not sure how to read the bottom scale (the one in lbs) since the yellow plastic needle is so thick.

***Do I take the reading at the back edge of the needle or the front edge of the needle due to the needle being so wide?

Thx.

That "plug" should be a simple switch - which ain't polarised. It's a "low pressure cut-off" that is supposed to keep the compressor clutch from engaging if the refrigerant pressure gets too low (too much leaks out.)

I believe that the Krikit is ready from the upper (toward you) edge of the indicator. Did you not get instructions? You may be able to find them if you go to Gates' website (Google <Gates + belts>,) since it's their tool anyhow.

5-90 said:

That "plug" should be a simple switch - which ain't polarised. It's a "low pressure cut-off" that is supposed to keep the compressor clutch from engaging if the refrigerant pressure gets too low (too much leaks out.)

I believe that the Krikit is ready from the upper (toward you) edge of the indicator. Did you not get instructions? You may be able to find them if you go to Gates' website (Google <Gates + belts>,) since it's their tool anyhow.

Click to expand...

5-90, YOU'RE THE GREATEST!!!

The Plug is definitely not polarized, it works either way. Donno why it originally had a third prong that was broken off.

Yes, the Krikit is read from the upper edge, says so right in the instructions...

DUH! I'm gonna have to stop being so MANLY and actually READ THE INSTRUCTIONS from time to time! LOL

UPDATE: on the OVERDRIVE ALTERNATOR PULLEY and 4 Gauge Wiring and Gold Plated Ring Terminals for new grounds, mains etc. The only one I didn't upgrade was B+ to Starter. Do you think it's necessary?

EUREKA! IT FRIGGIN' WORKS!!! THANK YOU!!! I can now SIMULTANEOUSLY run ALL OF MY ELECTRONIC GOODIES, LIGHTS, AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST THE AC!!! Even my SCREENS stay ON and won't blackout when I run the AC!

ALSO, using my new DC AMMETER from SEARS.COM, I set the scale at 400A then clipped the new 4 Gauge ALTERNATOR TO PDC LINE fired the engine up and at idle I get a whopping 105 Amps (the Alt's rated 170 Amp). Funny thing though, the digital meter reading for DC Amps kept "cycling" after the reading I couldn't get it to zero but was able to take the voltage reading at the battery (14.68V). Is my meter toast?

Meanwhile, back to adding a SDC (AUTOMATIC Startup/Shutdown Controller) to my XJ 'PUTER MUHAAAAHHHHAAAA!!!

Thx.

Is a 4AWG lead to the starter absolutely necessary? Probably not. Would I recommend it? Yes - and so would several other RENIX owners here!

The OEM lead is 6AWG, which I think it a bit paltry. I once (at school) hooked an ammeter up to one of my rigs with the key off, and cranked the starter with the ignition disabled. Surge current was about 270A, with "steady-state" cranking current running about 160A.

I know the starter motor and circuit have a lot overall duty cycle (on the order of about 1% of total vehicle operation,) but improving that circuit will help - and you'll probably note faster starts as well (since the "surge" from startup will be more able to travel.) I've had people install my battery cables on RENIX rigs, and note quicker start times (as have I.)

If you've got the ability, might as well. It certainly can't do any harm - no harm has ever come from a wire being "too big."

Hi 5-90,

You probably replied right before I edited my post. Here's more below:

ALSO, using my new DC AMMETER from SEARS.COM, I set the scale at 400A then clipped the new 4 Gauge ALTERNATOR TO PDC LINE fired the engine up and at idle I get a whopping 105 Amps (the Alt's rated 170 Amp). Funny thing though, the digital meter reading for DC Amps kept "cycling" after the reading I couldn't get it to zero but was able to take the voltage reading at the battery (14.68V). Is my meter normal or toast?

Thx.

Your alternator may be rated at 170A, but that doesn't mean it puts out 170A all the time.

Alternator output is what the system needs to run everything at the time - with the engine idling and everything turned off, you're probably going to generate 35-40A. At cruise with the radio on, probably 60A or so. Add aircon? Add 10-15A.

Jumpstarting a flat battery? Yeah, you're going to see 150-160A or more.

Anyhow - 105A at idle wouldn't happen unless the regulator saw a need for it - what else were you running? Was your battery discharged to any significant degree? How long did it maintain 105A? I'd think it would have dropped to "idle" in about five minutes or so, after it topped off the battery.

5-90 said:

Your alternator may be rated at 170A, but that doesn't mean it puts out 170A all the time.

Alternator output is what the system needs to run everything at the time - with the engine idling and everything turned off, you're probably going to generate 35-40A. At cruise with the radio on, probably 60A or so. Add aircon? Add 10-15A.

Jumpstarting a flat battery? Yeah, you're going to see 150-160A or more.

Anyhow - 105A at idle wouldn't happen unless the regulator saw a need for it - what else were you running? Was your battery discharged to any significant degree? How long did it maintain 105A? I'd think it would have dropped to "idle" in about five minutes or so, after it topped off the battery.

Click to expand...

I only tested it for less than a min since my xj's exhaust was fumigating the house; being that the truck was parked backward into the garage. Come to think of it it did fluctuate alot but it went down from around 150-160A to 105A when it dropped to "idle".

***Do you think the Regulator fed more amps due to my MEGAWATT STEREO/COMPUTER's CAPACITOR had to ramp up with juice (even though the Stereo was off)?

I do think the Yellow Top Optima wasn't fully charged since it had been sitting and I had my Charger on 2Amp Trickle for around 12 Hours. Hence, the Regulator seeing the need for more current.

***Is the Regulator INSIDE the Alternator or EXTERNAL?

Also, everything was off. I only started the engine. But it was weird how the meter's display kept "cycling" and wouldn't go back to zero even after I removed it from the Alt to PDC Line.

btw - I exchanged it at a local Sears store today. Luckily, they had some in stock so I didn't have to wait for the UPS Guy. lol

I hope this one works ok. Someone elsewhere mentioned that if I touch the probes together briefly the meter will Zero, however I wasn't using the probes but the CLAMP ON JAWS to measure Amps.

Thx.

1988? Delco CS-130, internal regulator. That's what the two wires in the black plug are for - the regulator "energise" and "sense" leads.

5-90,

I'm thinking of adding the 4 AWG Line from the Battery to the Starter.

Looking at the Starter from the top there appears to be TWO wires. A thin wire going to the solenoid and a thick wire (on the side of the starter casing).

Which is the correct one to replace?

Thx.

DIGITRUCK said:

5-90,

I'm thinking of adding the 4 AWG Line from the Battery to the Starter.

Looking at the Starter from the top there appears to be TWO wires. A thin wire going to the solenoid and a thick wire (on the side of the starter casing).

Which is the correct one to replace?

Thx.

Click to expand...

Replace the heavy mains lead, and reterminate the lighter solenoid lead (if necessary. Some later models use a moulded rubber block to keep them together.)

If you need to reterminate, instructions to do so are on my site.

5-90 said:

Replace the heavy mains lead, and reterminate the lighter solenoid lead (if necessary. Some later models use a moulded rubber block to keep them together.)

If you need to reterminate, instructions to do so are on my site.

Click to expand...

Looking at it from the top down, the Heavy Mains Lead just bolts to the Starter but I can't see where it goes after that.

***1. Can you please enlighten me as to where this Heavy Mains Lead goes after it's bolted to the Starter?

***2. Where on the Site are the Instructions about Reterminating? I searched but cannot find it.

Thx.

The heavy mains lead (from the large post on the starter solenoid) should run directly to the battery. Failing that, follow the battery lead to the first distribution point - probably the PDC. Maybe it's there. ChryCo did a funky job with those subharnesses...

The instructions should be under the "instruction for WiP parts and kits" page in .pdf format. Please let me know if they are not - but I'm fairly sure I did get them up there.

DIGITRUCK said:

Looking at it from the top down, the Heavy Mains Lead just bolts to the Starter but I can't see where it goes after that.

***1. Can you please enlighten me as to where this Heavy Mains Lead goes after it's bolted to the Starter?

***2. Where on the Site are the Instructions about Reterminating? I searched but cannot find it.

Thx.

Click to expand...

5-90,

After a closeup inspection, the Starter only has ONE thin wire going into the Solenoid (looks like a #10 or #12AWG).

The other thick wire only terminates on the Starter's Electric Motor Casing and goes nowhere else (maybe it's under the bell housing or elsewhere). There appears to be only a few inches of this thick wire visible.

****So now I'm confused, do I upgrade the THIN WIRE going into the Solenoid with my new 4AWG Wire? Anyone's tried this please chime in.

btw - I tested my replacement CLAMP ON DC AMMETER/MULTIMETER today.

Here's my results:

1. Yellow Top Optima with Engine Off 12.73V Engine On 14.78V

2. Engine Idling (no accessories) 14.23 Amps

3. Engine Idling (with Stereo about 1/2 Vol) 45.75 Amps

4. Engine Idling (Stereo and AC Max) 65.57 Amps

It appears that the Stereo wasn't drawing that much current, the real culprit is the AC. Now, I've got around 100 Amps Headroom if I choose to add more goodies! But first things first the Starter Wire Upgrade and then the SDC.

Thx.

DIGITRUCK said:

5-90,

After a closeup inspection, the Starter only has ONE thin wire going into the Solenoid (looks like a #10 or #12AWG).

The other thick wire only terminates on the Starter's Electric Motor Casing and goes nowhere else (maybe it's under the bell housing or elsewhere). There appears to be only a few inches of this thick wire visible.

****So now I'm confused, do I upgrade the THIN WIRE going into the Solenoid with my new 4AWG Wire? Anyone's tried this please chime in.

Click to expand...

Those current levels make much more sense (I just whacked them from the quote to save space.)

Check around - as far as I know, all of the AMC242 engines use the same style of starter, and they will all have a heavy-gage lead (6AWG for AMC, 8AWG for ChryCo) coming direct from the battery. The 10-12AWG lead (12AWG, I think) running to the solenoid is the one you don't want to mess with - leaving that OEM will be fine. You just need to make sure it gets reconnected when you're done.

Check up around your battery - you should have had two leads coming off of the positive cable clamp. One would go to distribution (either the PDC on later models, or the start motor relay on early models,) and the other one would go right to the starter motor, by way of the large screwpost on the solenoid. Look carefully, you should see it.

As I recall, the solenoid will be on top of the starter motor as installed, but you may still have a few things in the way.

Quick note:

I don't know why jeep used a 3 pin connector but they did, but it is only a 2 pin switch (not a 3 pin switch) and it does not matter which way it is attached. It is however the high pressure switch, the one on the dryer, attached to the condensor (the high pressure side) with the sight gauge.

5-90 said:

That "plug" should be a simple switch - which ain't polarised. It's a "low pressure cut-off" that is supposed to keep the compressor clutch from engaging if the refrigerant pressure gets too low (too much leaks out.)

I believe that the Krikit is ready from the upper (toward you) edge of the indicator. Did you not get instructions? You may be able to find them if you go to Gates' website (Google <Gates + belts>,) since it's their tool anyhow.

Click to expand...

5-90 said:

Check up around your battery - you should have had two leads coming off of the positive cable clamp. One would go to distribution (either the PDC on later models, or the start motor relay on early models,) and the other one would go right to the starter motor, by way of the large screwpost on the solenoid. Look carefully, you should see it.

As I recall, the solenoid will be on top of the starter motor as installed, but you may still have a few things in the way.

Click to expand...

Hi 5-90,

I FOUND IT!

Yes, there are TWO wires coming off the Starter. One thin one going to the Solenoid and a thick one.

Previously, I only couldn't see where the thick one went so I traced it backwards from the battery. This thick wire terminated at the PDC Screw Terminal and went up UNDER the CHARCOAL CANISTER that's why I couldn't see it.

This wire went into a wire loom with the ground from the engine. "Killed two birds with one stone" since that ground's insulation was peeling and cracking I pulled both wires off and replaced them with the new 4AWG wire.

Starts up Great! Now, to reinstall the Skid Plate and work on the SDC for the Computer.

Thank Again You're the Greatest!

Thx.