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At a cross road, which front axle?

P1atinum

Aerodynamically Challenge
Location
Orlando, Florida
Need some axle advice.

Since I keep breaking inner shafts on my D30 and with the last break it took out the ring gear as well, I was all set to build a waggy 44. But have recently been reading some opinions that the D44 for the front is not that much of a gain over a well built 30.

Current rig specs
35” BFG’s
Front D30 and rear D44 with Detroit soft lockers and 4.56 gears, Yukon front shafts (keep snapping them at the inner splines ) rear stock shafts (no problem yet)
Mostly stock 4.0L (plan on some future engine work add cam, intake, TB, Etc)
Pretty heavy rig (front rear bumpers, winch, roof rack, spare, tool/parts box full of crap)


Here is what I am considering and want some advice with.

Route 1
Since I already have some money into the 30 with Crossover steering, Tera front PS knuckle, Locker. BTF front Cover. Etc. keep the 30 and build it up a little more.
Option A
Add Truss, Different alloy shafts Warn or USA Alloy, and Ox locker
Option B
Same as above but go to super 30 and add Warn hub conversion (Making the R/P the week link)

Cost range $1800 to $2100, Add option B is another $1000 then sell off some of my old stuff, shafts, diff Cover and Detroit for about $600


Route 2
Scrap the 30 and part out everything I can to recoup some of what I am going to spend on the D44 build, I can get a Waggy 44 for about 60 Bucks right now so the cost is all in the parts.
Option A
Ox locker, Warn inner and outer shafts, TNT truss, Crane or ??? knuckles, Convert to 5x5.5 bolt pattern so Chevy brakes, spindle (already have the small spindle and backing plate) and Ford hub and rotors, Warn premium Hubs (week link is the 19 spline outers)
Option B
Same as above but move to Warn 30 spline hub conversion kit

Cost range is $3000 to $3500 Add Option B it’s another $1200 Again assuming I can sell off my old D30 parts. For about $1000 and recoup some of that cost.

I am pretty sure the cost estimates are on the high side but do I gain enough to build the 44?

Last route that just came up.

Local pick up for a Currie HP Hi-Clearance 9" front housing (brand new), 4:86 gears, ARB locker, Warn 31 spline chromoly inner shafts, Warn 30 spline chromoly outer shafts, CTM ujoints, Warn Premium hubs, grand cherokee high steer knuckles, cross over steering, 5 on 5.5 BP (up grade from stock 5 on 4.5), and 4-linked w/ Terratraction custom truss.

Cost is $3000 for the Currie 9”


I want to be able to run the 35’s with to much worry on a heavy rig and maybe, maybe move up to 37’s in the future once I make the XJ a trail rig only. This is couple of years down the road if at all?
 
upgrade to a dana 60 on 9" and call it a day

if you know your going to be breakin more shit why not just make it bullet proof

in the end you will save time and money

even with 37's ur pushing the limits of the dana 44
 
A lot of people flog d30's with 35's and don't break.

Get rid of the yukon shafts and go superior or alloy usa. I lean towards alloy based on their 10 year on questions warantee.

Get a strong diff cover to help cut down on ring gear deflection a bit.

Give it a light truss, it will take you a weekend and help protect against bent tube - you'd want to do the same with a 44, 9, 60, etc.
 
cal said:
A lot of people flog d30's with 35's and don't break.

Get rid of the yukon shafts and go superior or alloy usa. I lean towards alloy based on their 10 year on questions warantee.

Get a strong diff cover to help cut down on ring gear deflection a bit.

Give it a light truss, it will take you a weekend and help protect against bent tube - you'd want to do the same with a 44, 9, 60, etc.
X2
 
cal said:
A lot of people flog d30's with 35's and don't break.

Get rid of the yukon shafts and go superior or alloy usa. I lean towards alloy based on their 10 year on questions warantee.

Get a strong diff cover to help cut down on ring gear deflection a bit.

Give it a light truss, it will take you a weekend and help protect against bent tube - you'd want to do the same with a 44, 9, 60, etc.


This would be the least expensive choice at this point.

Funny thing is I have already ordered the USA alloy shafts about 3 weeks ago but back ordered until the 25th, Then I just need to truss, Already have good diff cover BTF.

Still need to set up new gears but that's not too bad. Maybe learn to set up my own this time.

With this I can get the rig trail worthy rather quickly while I begin building something more stout.

As for the 60, I dont really have enough tire to drag the 60 over all the rocks. 37's better the 35's would be a little small.
 
When I ordered my stuff from P.O.R.C. I was told that they get a lot of warrenty claims on Yukon shafts. Must be the same folks that make Optima batteries.
 
Sell all your stuff. Get a waggy 44 and put in a set of alloy usa shafts, a locker (selectible if you have the $$), and build a simple truss. I am kind of in the same position as you. I bet you could sell your d30 for like $800 maybe $1000 if it is in really good shape. It sounds like you have a lot of work into it. I bought a d30 with a aussie and alloy usa shafts for $600? It came with a d35! Anyways I am about to run 35" good year mt/r's. So hopefully my axles will hold up! Good luck
 
What year rig? Do you have a hi-pinion D-30? I would keep a Hi-pinion non-disco D-30 and just add the truss.

If you go the D-44 route, the 19 spline outers are old/obsolete tec. The later ones have 27 spline outers/297 size U-joints.
 
P1atinum said:
Local pick up for a Currie HP Hi-Clearance 9" front housing (brand new), 4:86 gears, ARB locker, Warn 31 spline chromoly inner shafts, Warn 30 spline chromoly outer shafts, CTM ujoints, Warn Premium hubs, grand cherokee high steer knuckles, cross over steering, 5 on 5.5 BP (up grade from stock 5 on 4.5), and 4-linked w/ Terratraction custom truss.

Cost is $3000 for the Currie 9”

All that for only $3k ? Is that right?
That is a great deal, I spent more than that on my D44. I should've gone with the Currie.
 
Sierra Drifter said:
All that for only $3k ? Is that right?
That is a great deal, I spent more than that on my D44. I should've gone with the Currie.

It was used and is no longer an option. They sold it.

BTW it is an HP30 Think I am going to put in some usa alloy shafts and truss it, then start to build a D44.
 

BTW it is an HP30 Think I am going to put in some usa alloy shafts and truss it, then start to build a D44.[/quote]

Thats a good idea. You will still be able to wheel while building your dana 44. good luck homie.:cool:
 
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