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How to keep the clutch from burning up on the trails...?

TrueBlueXJ

NAXJA Forum User
I'm not really new to offroading, but I am new to driving a 5 speed Jeep offroad. For those of you out there with the almighty stick shift, how do you keep your clutch from burning up on the trails? 1st gear in 4hi just isn't low enough, and I have to feather the clutch ALOT. 1st in 4lo is just a jumping, hopping mess. Should I run in 2nd in 4lo? What's the secret?
 
GEARS!!!!!!! :flamemad:
TrueBlueXJ said:
Specs:
2.5L I4
Rubicon Express 3.5" Superflex Kit w/ full leaf packs
Rubicon Express Mono-tube shocks
Gen II Swaybar Quick Disconnects
31x10.50" Interco TrXus MTs
Cragar Soft 8s
K&N hi-flow air filter
Dynomax Super Turbo cat-back exhaust


100_5202.jpg
 
Okay, I guess I should've said BESIDES gears. My Chryco only goes to 4.56, and an axle swap is nowhere in my near future. Someday a 44 and 8.8 might come, but not for a LONG time. Until then, what else can I do?
 
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3-low seems to work well for me. If I need to go slower, I just drop a gear. By the way, 3-low runs about the same as 1st gear for my 5-speed XJ. I can crawl and get silly on the throttle, without worrying about smoking the clucth.
 
On the trails I always run in low gear. On really technical sections I will try to keep my feet on the floor as much as possible and not constantly be clutching, if you have decent gears you wont stall so easily when using the brake. Start in 2nd unless you are on a steep hill or something, when you arent crawling you can drive around in 2nd 3rd or 4th if your really moving.
 
An old racers trick is to hook up your windshield washer sprayers to spray on the clutch. Drill a couple of small holes in the bell housing and epoxy a nozzle pointing at the pressure plate.
We took it one step farther and used a larger water tank mounted inside so we could see when it got low, hooked up a simple brake switch to the clutch pedal so every time the clutch was used it got a bath.
If you can keep the heat down clutches usually last much longer.
You can also research a pressure plate with a higher pressure and/or a disc with exotic materials.
 
8Mud said:
An old racers trick is to hook up your windshield washer sprayers to spray on the clutch. Drill a couple of small holes in the bell housing and epoxy a nozzle pointing at the pressure plate.
We took it one step farther and used a larger water tank mounted inside so we could see when it got low, hooked up a simple brake switch to the clutch pedal so every time the clutch was used it got a bath.
If you can keep the heat down clutches usually last much longer.
You can also research a pressure plate with a higher pressure and/or a disc with exotic materials.

Now THAT'S usin' yer noggin! Sounds like a hell of an idea to me. Does spraying it with water when it's warm already damage it unduly? Or cause slippage? Of course if your'e sparying it every time, it's not a big deal I guess, but for those of us who don't have room for an additional tank and plumbing, would it be particularly harmful?

Thanks for the info, I like that idea :)
 
Gearing and clutch technique are requisite for clutch (and other drive train) longevity. Keep your foot off of the clutch pedal in between shifts.
 
jesterbomb said:
Now THAT'S usin' yer noggin! Sounds like a hell of an idea to me. Does spraying it with water when it's warm already damage it unduly? Or cause slippage? Of course if your'e sparying it every time, it's not a big deal I guess, but for those of us who don't have room for an additional tank and plumbing, would it be particularly harmful?

Thanks for the info, I like that idea :)

If it's real warm/hot the water will just evaporate- never warped or damaged anything in the mini-stocks we did it to either (and they spun to holy-crap-it's-gonna-blow speeds) I have never found it necessary to spray the clutch on a trail rig, but I'm still new to 4wheelin and haven't pushed anything past my limits, yet-- nevermind the limits of a good clutch!

--Shorty
 
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