welding axle brackets

so, i might be getting a HP44 axle from a 78 f250. a few questions. i am going to cut it down and use a tnt truss like cruzinillusion(?) did. do i need a 210V mig or can i use my lincoln 110V wire feed flux cored?

If you need to ask this question, I highly recommend having a shop do the work.

Is your 110V mig rated to weld 1/2" steel? Answer that question and you have your answer.

well, can i at least tack the truss on and have someone finish it? its gunna be while any way, but for 150 bucks i figured what the heck. ill buy the housing and get it ready and mayb i can find someone on here to at least weld the c's on.

You should be able to tack on the brackets and C's, but the welding needs to be done with a real welder. 110V welders are like toy when it comes to welders.

it is rated for 1/4inch. this doesnt matter though? i guess ill tacke every thing on and have someone finish welding for me if i dont have acces to a bigger welder by then.

2000bluexj said:

it is rated for 1/4inch. this doesnt matter though? i guess ill tacke every thing on and have someone finish welding for me if i dont have access to a bigger welder by then.

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The tubes are 1/2" which is double what your welder can handle. You welder also might be rated to 1/4" only if done in multiple passes, read the instuctions close.

I would reccomend 3/16" maximum steel thickness with a single pass if it's a quality weld.

Preheating before welding will help insure good weld penetration.

If its not a stuctural weld you can do more.

For axle brackets and other welds that involve your safety(others too) make sure they are done right. A life is a something that can't be replaced.

He's not welding 1/2" though. At least I hope he's not planning on pentrating the full 1/2" thickness of the tube. Depending on the thickness of the trussing material a 110 welder might be adequate. Before says no, I'd want to known the welders amperage rating, whether he does any preheating with a torch and if he doesn't mind a short duty cycle.

But I agree that if he's not real sure he might be better tacking it up and driving by a welding shop and have them stick weld it.

lawsoncl said:

He's not welding 1/2" though. At least I hope he's not planning on pentrating the full 1/2" thickness of the tube. Depending on the thickness of the trussing material a 110 welder might be adequate. Before says no, I'd want to known the welders amperage rating, whether he does any preheating with a torch and if he doesn't mind a short duty cycle.

But I agree that if he's not real sure he might be better tacking it up and driving by a welding shop and have them stick weld it.

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He is welding to 1/2" thick tubes and needs the correct welder to get proper penetration. Besides the truss I believe he is doing spring and control arm mounts. When welding to the 1/2" tubes the welder needs to be larger then a 110V unit to get proper penetration. A 110 welder can't produce enough amps or heat to achieve a full strength weld and a weak "cold" weld can happen. It may look good but it won't hold up.

A good 220V 220-250 amp MIG will work great for the truss and mounts. It should also work on the C's depending on the steel they are made of.

I really wouldn't recommend much preheating on the axle housing or doing too many welds without letting it cool or the axle housing could warp and be junk.

If the welder is only rated at 1/4", that is the max it should used on for structural welds and the welds better be done correctly since it is running at its max capability. They rate welders for a reason.

Also just because someone has the correct size welder it doesn't mean they know how to use it...

Would either of these welders be able to handle doing things like control arm brackets:

Millermatic DVI2
Millermatic 212

They are both 220v, rated up to 3/8" thick steel (I know that's not 1/2"), the DVI2 runs @ 150A, the 212 runs @ 210A

THalladay said:

Would either of these welders be able to handle doing things like control arm brackets:

Millermatic DVI2
Millermatic 212

They are both 220v, rated up to 3/8" thick steel (I know that's not 1/2"), the DVI2 runs @ 150A, the 212 runs @ 210A

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My choose would be the 212. It should work just fine.