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Extra Fan

96xjwheeler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tucson, Arizona
hey i was wondering if anyone has installed a aux fan that you could control by switch and make the engine cooler. i drove my jeep back from maranna to tucson and it over heated. i was trying to see if there is any possible way to get an extra fan in there that i could control so that doesnt happen again. i have a 96 xj with the dual fan setup already and for some reason it overheats on long freeway trips. help me out please
Matt
 
Make sure both fan's are working properly. Stick a peice of paper in front of the grill to make sure that the rad is not obstricted. If it dose the rad is clean. You might want to check to make sure that the cooling fins are not missing.
 
Truth be told, if you overheated, a fan is not your problem.

I would start looking elsewhere.

Additionally, an elec fan wired to a switch is a damned good thing to have, although it will creative "negative air-flow" at highway speeds, which will actually do the opposite of your goal, staying cool.

CHeck your rad, make sure the fins are all clean and not fubar'd... then do your tstat and hoses, then have the rad and block BACKFLUSHED...

And get back to us ;)

Not to mention, be sure to replace/check your mechanical fan clutch while youre in there, thats the biggest tool you have to airflow..
 
about a month ao the rad was flushed and the tstat was replaced to a 165 about 3 months ago all that is fine and the rad is clean and everything. i dont know if its the fact that i have 3.73 gears and 33's right now but i doubt it is. im replacing that with 4.56 and a 44 soon. the extra fan would help but i dont know if there is enough room.
 
finl.gif

Fin Deterioration - A chemical deterioration of the fins most often caused by road salt or sea water.

finbonl.gif


Fin Bond Failure - A loss of solder bond between fins and tubes. Fins are loose in core. This causes loss of heat transfer and reduces the strength of the Radiator.

Your 165 t-stat will make your PCM think it's cold all the time causeing it to run rich. Replace it with the a 180.
 
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96xjwheeler said:
also when u say that fins what do u mean? i may just not understand the lingo i may not of heard that word before but i may know what u are talking a bout

In addition to bent fins or corroded fins (not that likely in AZ) look for fins clogged with bugs, small rocks, dirt or other stuff. Look between the AC condenser and the radiator to make sure junk hasn't built up in there. Try using a hose nozzle to spray from the back of the radiator toward the front or go to the DIY car wash and use their spray nozzle to try and blow anything out.

If the radiator has never been replaced (to your knowledge) consider just getting a new one if you can afford it, they're usually between $100-200 from the usual on-line parts bin places - . Flush only does so much

I'm sure other people will chime in here but the usual list of suspects

- old lower radiator hose collapsing - replace with an OEM one from the dealer with the spring in it.
- x2 on the thermostat - stock thermostats are 195. consider the Mr. Gasket brand from Summit racing and other places. 195 means the engine warms up faster and stops dumping gas into the engine - better mileage, happier oil, less oil washed off the cylinder walls. Once it's open it's open.
- water pump corroded fins - replace pump.
- air bubble in the system left from the flush - search on burp the system threads
- add water wetter or purple ice to the system to improve the heat transfer ability of the coolant. With water wetter anyway it works better with less than the usual 50/50 mix of coolant.
- serpentine belt old or not tensioned properly? Might be slipping and not spinning the water pump fast enough.

If it slowly overheats at highway speeds (Tucson to Marana is pretty flat so it's pretty steady state conditions except for a few overpasses) it would tend to indicate the system is at the tipping point and adding just a little more heat (highway effort) pushes it over.

- other random ideas - saw a thread once that said if your catalytic converter is clogged that can result in overheating.
- possibly bad sending unit? Borrow or get a no-contact thermometer to verify the gauge temp against that of the passenger (hot) side tank of the radiator.
- have you removed the air dam under the bumper or the fiber thingy that goes behind the dam and attaches to the front cross piece and a few spots down the frame rails - if those are missing then air might be going under the body and into the engine compartment creating a high pressure area behind the radiator instead of low pressure - reducing the amout of air flow through the radiator.
 
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X2 on the Thermostat. My buddy just went through the same headache :banghead: . He messed with his highway speed overheating problem for a month. He had put a 160 thermostat in when he was having high temps while on the trails, I believe. After he flushed his radiator it fixed the low speed cooling problem he had the high speed overheating issue. He swapped it out to a factory thermostat. (I thought it's higher than a 180. I could be wrong, but I think it's 195. Will have to look it up.) After this he runs perfect. Lower Temp thermostat doesn't mean lower temp engine.
 
well i just bought a 180 tstat with failsafe so if it does get to hot it will open up and just let the engine cool down enough to where i can get somewhere. i gotta install that tomorrow and see if that help at all. hopefully it will. ill also try sparying the rad with my pressure washer and getting all the bugs and stuff out of the fins and what not. and then on top of that i just worked on making my secondary far to where its now a switch instead of a realy and temp sensor. so now i can turn it on when i turn the car on instead of letting it kick on when it wants. what you think, if u got questions on how to do it ill be glad to help
 
No that is the wrong thermostat. You need a 195 unless you like paying for the extra fuel, running rich all the time, and not using the O2 sensor as the ECU is waiting for it to heat to 195!
Also, can you feel much more resistance to turning the mechanical fan by hand when hot than cold? If not, you need to replace the fan hub or viscous coupling.
 
well i went back to a 180 temp tstat and its also a fail safe. i emptied the coolant tank and refilled it with fresh coolan, check all the hoses and they are fine, the only thing i have to do is check the rad at work today and see if its in good condition and if it is then i dont know. ill try spraying it with the pressure washer today to get all the bad stuff out of the fins. so hopefully everything i did will help and make things better
 
yeah i know 195 is the factory but i wanted to keep it a lil bit below cause it gets to hot other wise its not like its a expensive fix or a hard fix so ill see how the 180 does and go from there.
How much is one of the radiators from there? i may have to go check that out sometime soon
 
oh and on top of that i took a pressure washer to the front end of my jeep and the radiator to see if i could get anything uncloged or get anything out of the fins, well i sat there spraying it for a good 5 mins and muddy colored water just kept coming out the whole time. so im having a feeling that that may of had a effect, haha.
 
sjkimmel99 said:
- have you removed the air dam under the bumper or the fiber thingy that goes behind the dam and attaches to the front cross piece and a few spots down the frame rails - if those are missing then air might be going under the body and into the engine compartment creating a high pressure area behind the radiator instead of low pressure - reducing the amout of air flow through the radiator.

Wait........I have a custom homebrew front bumper and the fiber thing disentigrated in deep water....so you are saying this could effect highway cooling? What would I have to do to correct this, something simple like a front skid?
 
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