T-Case Options Advice Please

I finally did it! After about 5 years of occassionaly watching the forums, I decided to register. I've searched a bit through the previous posts on the topic, but I need a little advice.

I have a pretty bone stock '01 XJ. It has an NP242 tcase. I have an opportunity to purchase a (supposedly) clean 231 for under $400. My goal would be to put in a short shaft SYE kit from Novak (or similar) and get it ready to swap with the 242 when I do my ~3" lift later this year.

I have several reasons for the swap. First, there's no short-shaft kit for the 242 and I'm not 100% convinced that a hack'n'tap SYE method is the best option. Second, I do plan on eventually, when the wife retires the XJ as her daily driver, throwing on a real lift(~6"), bigger tires, and hopefully a 4:1 kit.

On the downside, I'm probably looking at $800-900 extra for this swap (tcase, shaft/SYE kit, driveshaft(s), etc) vs. a 242 SYE kit from RE or Tom Woods. That could be some money well-spent on things like skid plates, rocker guards, gears, bumpers, etc...

So what's the general consensous? Is the short-shaft option and eventual extra low range gearing (talking YEARS down the road there) worth the additional expense right now? Unfortunately, this Jeep spends 95% of the time on the road with my wife and two very small children. The driveline angles MUST be dealt with when I do the lift, but I can't decide if this is the way to deal with it. But sitting in the driveway for a week is NOT an option.

Of course, this all assumes that the NP231 is the right year from the right tranny with the right length input shaft and the electronic speedo... Don't know yet.

I'm cursed with being an Engineer... EVERYTHING in life is too hard cause it has to be done right, in the proper order, with the most efficiency, and at the right price.

With all that in mind, please advise. Thanks for your input! I look forward to gaining lots of knowledge and hopefully contributing some, as well.

Being an engineer is a curse, Spend more time talking yourselves out of doing something, It's funny. Have you rulled out the transfer case lowing shims to correct the driveline angle?

Spending $400 for the tc sounds high but, it may be in line, I don't know. I picked up 242 for $50 because the chain was stretched. I know have a "core" that Woods charges $400 for and add another $100 and I sshould have enough for his H n T and no down time. Armor should be your first priority though. Good Luck

OV Craig said:

Being an engineer is a curse, Spend more time talking yourselves out of doing something, It's funny. Have you rulled out the transfer case lowing shims to correct the driveline angle?

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I usually do talk myself out of everything. Like the $500 Grand Wagoneer that just needs a new engine to be 100%...

I considered just dropping the t-case and hoping for the best, but I talked myself out of that one, too. I want it to be done right the first time and that means an SYE in the very least, be it on the stock 242 or a 231.

As it stands now, I'm slowly talking myself out of the 231 and just keeping my 242. But opinions are welcome.

I've had this problem for a long time. I have a 242 t-case and the only option I see is Tom Woods combo, which runs me $970. Of course I get $470 back, but that's still $500 on something I don't even want. However, buying a t-case and SYE would run me the same price, so I'm screwed. Unless you people know of a cheaper alternative. Like the RE SYE plate for $80 or whatever, what all needs to be done to get that to work?

I think that you're right on track. You should be able to get away with an XJ front shaft for your rear driveshaft, which will save you a ton.

Don't forget, you'll recover some $$ from selling the 242 once it's out.

I've done 2-2.5" lifts on 99-01 XJs and have gotten the vibes to be pretty much non-existent by using shims. However, SYE is definitely better, more reliable, the way to go! Now you won't have to worry about going higher, and theoretically you should get better mileage with less frictional loss due to driveline angles....although I dont' think it will be measureable.

I saw some posts regarding the use of a ZJ front drive shaft out back, instead of an XJ front d/s, because it's about 2" longer than the XJ's. Perhaps an RE kit and the ZJ d/s would be a viable low cost alternative. ??

Besides, I do like the 242 since we can get real snow during the winter; the full time option is nice to have. And I probably don't REALLY need a 4:1 kit anytime in the next few years...

See, I'm already talking myself out of the 231.

I drive in the snow all the time. I usually use 2 wheel drive. Sometimes I put it in 4. If there is not so much snow on the roads, you don't need 4.

I have a 99 XJ with aobut 6.25" of lift and a tom woods shafts front and rear. A few weekends ago I busted the rear yoke on the 44, and the Ujoint ended up hitting the slip splines so hard that it dented them and now I can't extend the driveshaft. Luckily I had a stock XJ shaft to use as a spare, and it's been working fine since.

But between an XJ front shaft from a manual, an auto, and a ZJ front shaft, you should be able to get the right length rear driveshaft for cheap for an SYE.

mjma said:

I drive in the snow all the time. I usually use 2 wheel drive. Sometimes I put it in 4. If there is not so much snow on the roads, you don't need 4.

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Yeah, you're right. Not much need for fulltime 4wd, but it's handy sometimes.

mjma said:

But between an XJ front shaft from a manual, an auto, and a ZJ front shaft, you should be able to get the right length rear driveshaft for cheap for an SYE.

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I'll have to see what the local U-pull-it salvage hard has around. Thanks.

gearhead said:

On the downside, I'm probably looking at $800-900 extra for this swap (tcase, shaft/SYE kit, driveshaft(s), etc) vs. a 242 SYE kit from RE or Tom Woods. That could be some money well-spent on things like skid plates, rocker guards, gears, bumpers, etc...

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For that much money you could buy a NV241OR T-case from a TJ Rubicon. There was one on Ebay for $750 a few days ago, might still be there. You get a much stronger T-case, 4:1 low ratio, and the SYE is built in. And its a bolt in swap to your 23 spline AW4 output shaft. It's worth considering.

I like the full-time of the 242 but I don't use it on-road unless I absolutely need it. Otherwise I throw it in there when off roading. Never used part-time before. Who would actually want a 242 t-case anyway? Oh well, I guess the trick here is to get it as high as I can go without screwing with an SYE. 3.5" lift seems like the most, right?

I have a 242 with 6'' of lift, and i am not doing to bad, though my bro who works for a jeep mag does say i should lower it though. But he does say that i can drive it around for a long time without and SYE, and it should be fine. I would keep the 242, i like mine, i throw it into full time when ever i am climbing steep stuff and then i dont have to worry about the placement of torque and breaking things so much. and i dont have to worry that i will forget that i am in 4x4 and hit pavement and scrub my tires.

Hm, I definitely should check into that ZJ thing you guys mentioned. Are there any links you guys know of that have more info on this?
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?Cn=328&Pn=1806&XnPath=320,321,328&Vid=4D9BB42136388
Would that SYE plate work on my t-case and then bolt up the ZJ shaft you guys mentioned? I might actually go that route since I know where to get ZJ driveshafts.

A 231 for $400 is a total ripoff. I sold one a few months ago for $100 and thought I was lucky to be rid of it. The local pick yur part must have a dozen 231's out there and I think they get less than $50 a piece.