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Quaker State-PROBLEMS?

M

mgreen84

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Georgia
Ok, to start let me say I am only stating my opinion and asking for opinions..(i know some are very sensitive about their oil)

I run a small repair business as a side job, today I started on a job for a very elder gentlemen who had a 92 XJ. After listening to the never-ending story of how he purchased this vehicle brand new and looking at the mountain of receipts he kept in a file folder behind the spare tire. I learned that he was having a problem with a top end tap or knock at start-up that lasts until he brings the idle up.
I pulled the valve cover to take a look and it was filthy. I mean completely "gooped" up worse than I have ever seen. So I pulled the oil pan and this was just as bad. I began to look closer at this mans repair receipts and found that he was using Quaker State oil every 3k miles. I mixed up kerosene and marvels oil and flushed the motor for almost an hour. I put on a new filter and gaskets, filled with castrol 10 40 and it runs like a champ. Not a single noise from the motor. Anyone have something to say about quaker state?
 
thats interesting. What kind of filter was on it? did you just pour the mix into the oil when you flushed it, how much
 
RyanM said:
thats interesting. What kind of filter was on it? did you just pour the mix into the oil when you flushed it, how much
Click to expand...
Filter was a purolator, I just drained the old oil. Filled with the Cheapo deluxe 40 weight (Straight SAE 40) 4quarts. One quart marvels and one quart kerosene premixed. Added to oil and idled. Pulled valve cover, used nylon parts brush and straight kerosene to wash valvetrain. Drained oil, filled with 5/30 cheapo (thinner to remove goop) and ran for a little while to rinse system. (Probably wasn't necessary). Drained again, replaced filter and valve cover and oilpan/rear main gaskets while I had them off and filled with new oil. I have done this many many time, as I am sure alot of the guys on here, and it works much better than any flush.
 
do you think it was because he did not drive it that much, and it took a lonngg time to reach 3K. thus causing sludge
 
RyanM said:
do you think it was because he did not drive it that much, and it took a lonngg time to reach 3K. thus causing sludge
Click to expand...
Don't know, I was asking if you guys had any experience. I use Mobil 1 everything (oil, trans, diffs, breakfast etc.) but its hard to convince someone who would buy their oil from a bum on the street to save a buck to buy 6 buck oil...LOL....not sure but I know I will not use Quaker State after seeing that....
 
I was using Mobil-1 untill they started using dino hydrocracked base oil's like the other Group III oils ( the untrue synthetics-castrol, penzoil etc). I'm happy with my Royal Purple for now, and always K&N oil filter. The only ones still using PAO is Amsoil and RP. I believe Redline is a Group V polyester base synthetic
 
Mine had a little over 130k with no engine noises. I put some quaker state in because it was all I could find at the store. After a couple hundred miles I started hearing some tapping and it ended up being a completely shot crank bearing. Put a whole other motor in because it scored the crank too much. Coincidence or not? I don't know, but I do know I'll never use quaker state again.
 
RyanM said:
I was using Mobil-1 untill they started using dino hydrocracked base oil's like the other Group III oils ( the untrue synthetics-castrol, penzoil etc). I'm happy with my Royal Purple for now, and always K&N oil filter. The only ones still using PAO is Amsoil and RP. I believe Redline is a Group V polyester base synthetic
Click to expand...
I've read those reports too, but Mobil1 says otherwise...not sure who to believe
 
245,477 miles on my purchased new 1988. Used Q-State since day one...with Fram filters. Engine hasnt missed a lick due to lubrication. I pulled the pan 5k miles or so ago to change a leaking (?) rear main seal. Pan had...maybe...1/8" inch of hard brown gunk in it. I scraped what I could off and took the pan to the car wash with a can of engine cleaner. Cleaned it up and reinstalled it.

I pull the valve cover every once in a while...maybe to check headbolt torque or whatever . The inside of the cover has a film of hard brown residue as well as the valve spring area. I clean it out with mineral spirits, change oil and filter and Im on my way.
 
mgreen84 said:
I've read those reports too, but Mobil1 says otherwise...not sure who to believe
Click to expand...
By no means is this a fact, but a couple of others here agree that the color of their oil went from a lighter/clearer color, to a darker brownish tint fluid. Anybody got a bottle of mobil1 from the 90's :D
 
I could send you a receipt saying I changed your oil if you wanted me to for your XJ, (after never even knowing you or seeing your car.)

Does anyone know if the work he paid for previously was actually done?:gag:
 
tommyr said:
I could send you a receipt saying I changed your oil if you wanted me to for your XJ, (after never even knowing you or seeing your car.)

Does anyone know if the work he paid for previously was actually done?:gag:
Click to expand...
Good point, he used Jiffy Puke (Lube). They mysteriously closed business here locally, now he is looking for someone to change his oil and do minor repair, (and he acted nervous about my ability????)
 
I think it has something to do with short trips and Quakerstate. I've heard of many people complaining about buildup, using Quakerstate.
My only personal experience was the wifes FSJ. I used Quakerstate in it in the early 80's, the first time I had the valve cover off, I stopped and haven't used Quakerstate since not even in the lawnmower.
 
also, double check that there's a thermostat in it-- if it never or rarely reaches opperating temp it can cause build-up in real short order! Shoulda taken pics of before and after- it may have helped you explain to him what can happen if you don't check things out (or trust that somethings been done because it's on the receipt)
mine's got more crud under it's cover than JLo has junk in her trunk, but it's due to an absolute lack of maintainance by the P.O. He bought it and drove it in stop-n-go traffic for two years without an oil change!

as for Q.S.-- I don't think there has been anywhere near as much problem with it since they stopped using parafin-based additives.

--Shorty
 
I bought my jeep, '96 with 63k on it. After I had it for a few thousand miles, I switched to synthetic oil Amsoil 5w40 and Amsoil filter. When I first switched to synthetic, I ran the first synthetic oil change for only 1,000 miles. I knew it would help clean the engine, and I didnt want all that gunk floating around. Has 91k on it now, and I change oil every approx 3k miles.

It's my second vehicle/trail rig, so I don't drive it all that much, but when I do, I'll usually work the motor real hard. I also idle my jeep for extended periods of time out on the trail, etc. Last oil change was September of last year, and my Jeep now has 3100 miles on the oil change. Checking the dipstick, the oil is light golden brown. And I know when I drain the oil it's going to pour out light golden brown as well. The Amsoil has done an excellent job keeping my jeeps engine clean, and it doesnt burn even a drop.
 
I've heard a lot of bad on Q State too, but I've never ran it for a long enough period of time for anything to develop for me. I ran Penzoil dino when I first got my XJ, but now I only run Mobile One Synthetic. Just the base synthetic though not the extended mile kind. I also still try to keep it at the 3-3.5K change mark 'cause my commute to work is only about three miles the long way. It doesn't get completely warmed up.
 
mgreen84 said:
Ok, to start let me say I am only stating my opinion and asking for opinions..(i know some are very sensitive about their oil)

I run a small repair business as a side job, today I started on a job for a very elder gentlemen who had a 92 XJ. After listening to the never-ending story of how he purchased this vehicle brand new and looking at the mountain of receipts he kept in a file folder behind the spare tire. I learned that he was having a problem with a top end tap or knock at start-up that lasts until he brings the idle up.
I pulled the valve cover to take a look and it was filthy. I mean completely "gooped" up worse than I have ever seen. So I pulled the oil pan and this was just as bad. I began to look closer at this mans repair receipts and found that he was using Quaker State oil every 3k miles. I mixed up kerosene and marvels oil and flushed the motor for almost an hour. I put on a new filter and gaskets, filled with castrol 10 40 and it runs like a champ. Not a single noise from the motor. Anyone have something to say about quaker state?
Click to expand...

Geeze, you got me started... In my opinion Qwaker state is the worst oil in the world and as a company they bite camel dung. I have never seen a clean engine that ran QS, ever. Every one has been a mess of sludge in the top end. Either he or you will have to watch that engine, once the castrol starts cleaning it out you may have to change the filter sooner than later.
 
I've always heard (but don't know if it's true) that Quaker State and Pennzoil both have paraffin in them, which is the waxy substance that candles are made from.

I've stayed away from Pennsylvania oil companies for years.
 
xjohnnyc said:
I've always heard (but don't know if it's true) that Quaker State and Pennzoil both have paraffin in them, which is the waxy substance that candles are made from.

I've stayed away from Pennsylvania oil companies for years.
Click to expand...

I've used only Pennzoil for the last 10 years+. I've got 236K+ miles on my DD Saturn. I'm not sure of the actually miles though since the odometer stopped working a couple of years ago. It's said 236K since then. I drive it to work most days so it's got to be well over 250K by now. Never had to do any engine work to it.

Wife's got 146k on her WJ. I know that's not much for a 4.0 though.

I've only got 110k on my 95 XJ so that's barely broken in. :)

I guess my point is I've not had any problems with Pennzoil.
 
This got me thinking so today I took out my laser thermometer and torch.....heated up a piece of sheet metal to about 250 degrees and poured several brands of 10/30 on it. Moved the temp up and down, (torch closer) .......quaker state was the first to burn, Like I said at the beginning of this post I will not use QS
 
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