• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

death wobble

Mopar It

NAXJA Forum User
Location
windsor nor-cal
i got no steerin stabilizer, sorta shot pitman arm tie rod end. thats it, i have ridiculous death wobble @ 45-55 to the point i gotta get off the freeway and drive through town, any ideas?
 
Your track bar should parallel your drag link.

A little front end shimmy is NOT death wobble. Death Wobble is VIOLENT UNCONTROLLED SHAKING of the front axle.

This is death wobble -------> http://www.emotoman.com/videos/dw.mpg


Death wobble can be caused by many things.

First, take your steering stabilizer off and throw it away. (that little shock thingy on the drag link) This only masks the issues with death wobble thus causing further wear and tear on parts. You DONT NEED IT UNLESS YOU HAVE 35" + Tires on there.

Second, check your Track bar. If there is ANY play in it, (even 1/32nd of an inch) you need to tighten it, replace the bushings, or the frame mount end (whatever you have aftermarket or stock) You can also check the track bar by having a helper turn the wheels left to right while you observe it. The track bar should SOLIDLY attach the front axle to the frame. As I said above, the track bar should parallel the drag link, with the axle at ride height, at full stuff and full droop.

Third, check your steering linkage. Get under the Jeep and grab the drag link (the rod from the steering box to the passenger knuckle), try to shake it around, if it moves at the passenger knuckle you need to replace it. If it wiggles, or has slop at the pittman arm (steering box side) than you need to replace the tie rod end. Then grab the tie rod (part that connects the drag link to the drivers knuckle) and try to shake it and move it around. If these parts are loose, you need to replace your tie-rod ends. You can also observe this while you have a helper turn the wheels left and right while you observe it.


Fourth, check your ball joints and wheel bearings. Jack each wheel off the ground and try to "wiggle" it by grasping it at both top and bottom, and each side. If it wiggles, you need to replace either the ball joints or bearing. This can be easily checked by further removing the wheel,brake caliper, and brake disc. You should try to move the knuckle up and down or wobble it (ball joints), and then try to wiggle the hub/bearing assembly by grasping it by the flange that the wheel studs mount to. If the flange wiggles, you need to replace the hub/bearing assembly.

Fifth, tire balancing. An imbalanced tire can lead to death wobble.

Sixth, Your steering box. This can be checked by having a helper turn the wheel left and right. Watch for the engagement of the steering shaft and watch the pittman arm turn, if there is play in either, there is the problem. Also, your steering box may be coming apart from the frame. Watch for this too as your helper turns the wheel. You can also try to wiggle the steering box on the frame itself. Check for play at the frame mount and bolts, which may be broken off inside the frame, where you cant see.

Seventh, EXTREME control arm angles. Anything over 3.5 inches of lift on stock-length control arms can cause death wobble, due to the mounting of said arms and the stresses on them.

Eighth, control arms themselves. Check all the bushings at the frame mounts and axle mounts. This applies to both stock arms and aftermarket. If your bushings need replacing, then replace them. The control arms keep your caster angle right so as your other axle components do what they were designed to do. Worn out bushings will be either visually detected, or have a helper put your rig in 4LO and watch the front axle as they drive the vehicle back and forth. If the inital torque really moves the front axle (essentially the pinion) up and down you need to look into bushing or even control arm replacement. (OR a Long Arm kit for those over 3.5 inches on stock length control arms)

Ninth, shocks. Your shocks mushy, bent shafts, or leaking fluid? Time to replace them. Yup, even shocks can cause death wobble. Check the mounting points on the axle, and also at the shock tower. If these are worn out, than replace them.
 
And, if all these are good. and they are on my truck, and i still have the issues... which i do, identical to the video. Then were do i go? I am searching threads and scratching my head.
 
bent axle?
broken/collapsed spring?
bent frame?
bent rim?
tires AFU?

also double check rear axle mounting points aren't causing the rear to
try to stear the Jeep at a differant angle than the front is. measure center of left rear to left front and right rear to right front should be same.


--Shorty
 
SeansBlueXJ said:
And, if all these are good. and they are on my truck, and i still have the issues... which i do, identical to the video. Then were do i go? I am searching threads and scratching my head.

if ALL of those things are not the problem:

1) you are an incompetant mechanic/inspector

or

2) just buy a new jeep keep this one as a crawler and build it from scratch.
 
I would check my tires and rims, mine was brand new and started up at the same speed, rotate yours tires when you get them balanced, ( watch them when they bal them)..... hope this helps.. i have done 6 heeps now an two wobble real bad, i think it is just the beast...
 
scottmcneal said:
I would check my tires and rims, mine was brand new and started up at the same speed, rotate yours tires when you get them balanced, ( watch them when they bal them)..... hope this helps.. i have done 6 heeps now an two wobble real bad, i think it is just the beast...

X2. I had BAD death wobble after lifting mine 3" (just like the video above). Got it to calm down by doing an alignment and replacing the stabililzer, but still had a good little shimmy around 50-55. Went and had my tires rebalanced (they were out of balance at the time) and the guys at the tire shop told me that my rim that was on the right front (which was JUST replaced about 3 months ago due to an accident) was bent. Got the body shop to warranty me a new rim, and the shimmy is almost gone.

It doesn't take much to set off the death wobble if you have it.
 
rocklandxjer said:
if ALL of those things are not the problem:

1) you are an incompetant mechanic/inspector

or

2) just buy a new jeep keep this one as a crawler and build it from scratch.

1) I am very competant, plus im not the only one looking over everything:repair:

2) are you going to help me afford a new Jeep?:looney:

any way, to steal the thread.

also checked hub to hub, front to rear and thats all good so im not thinking bent or non parellel axels. I think it's time to take the lift off and see what i get. and i also dont think it's the wheels as i have swapped them with my buddy's just to check, still happens.
 
SeansBlueXJ said:
1) I am very competant, plus im not the only one looking over everything:repair:

2) are you going to help me afford a new Jeep?:looney:

any way, to steal the thread.

also checked hub to hub, front to rear and thats all good so im not thinking bent or non parellel axels. I think it's time to take the lift off and see what i get. and i also dont think it's the wheels as i have swapped them with my buddy's just to check, still happens.

believe me, i wasnt calling you incompetant, i was saying, either you are [or are shitty at finding problems] or you should just get a new jeep, cause this one is a lift-lemon...
and HA lol i wish i could help a jeeper in need. but i resort to full rebuilds because i haven't the money to buy ones in good shape. [my last project was $150 bucks, it'll be my DD soon]

id bring the wheels to a shop to check their balance anyway, a local shop should do it for free or for cheap, and you can rule that out before disassembling the whole rig.

check the knuckle-knuckle connection and see if there is anything wrong with them. grease up the little nipple [just because]

THEN take it all apart and rebuild from there... this is really baffling
 
oh it is baffling, at this point this is the setup. OME930 coils +extra isolator to bring 2.5" lift. RE super ride fixed legnth lowers. OME stablizer as the stock one was shot (it did help some but by far no cure). All tie rod ends are tight. Ball joints are good (replaced driver just to be sure, still no change) JKS adjustable track bar with the axle properly centered. Tires, even if they arent ballanced were swapped with a nother set of rims/tires for a run and still had issues. Steering box bots to the frame are tight. control arms are tight. There is nothing else connecting the wheels to the axle and the axle to the truck! I cant make any sense of it!
 
could the low pinion D30 cause any issues with only 2.5" of lift? Just another one of my thoughts.
 
KarlVP said:
Your track bar should parallel your drag link.

A little front end shimmy is NOT death wobble. Death Wobble is VIOLENT UNCONTROLLED SHAKING of the front axle.

This is death wobble -------> http://www.emotoman.com/videos/dw.mpg


Death wobble can be caused by many things.

First, take your steering stabilizer off and throw it away. (that little shock thingy on the drag link) This only masks the issues with death wobble thus causing further wear and tear on parts. You DONT NEED IT UNLESS YOU HAVE 35" + Tires on there.

Second, check your Track bar. If there is ANY play in it, (even 1/32nd of an inch) you need to tighten it, replace the bushings, or the frame mount end (whatever you have aftermarket or stock) You can also check the track bar by having a helper turn the wheels left to right while you observe it. The track bar should SOLIDLY attach the front axle to the frame. As I said above, the track bar should parallel the drag link, with the axle at ride height, at full stuff and full droop.

Third, check your steering linkage. Get under the Jeep and grab the drag link (the rod from the steering box to the passenger knuckle), try to shake it around, if it moves at the passenger knuckle you need to replace it. If it wiggles, or has slop at the pittman arm (steering box side) than you need to replace the tie rod end. Then grab the tie rod (part that connects the drag link to the drivers knuckle) and try to shake it and move it around. If these parts are loose, you need to replace your tie-rod ends. You can also observe this while you have a helper turn the wheels left and right while you observe it.


Fourth, check your ball joints and wheel bearings. Jack each wheel off the ground and try to "wiggle" it by grasping it at both top and bottom, and each side. If it wiggles, you need to replace either the ball joints or bearing. This can be easily checked by further removing the wheel,brake caliper, and brake disc. You should try to move the knuckle up and down or wobble it (ball joints), and then try to wiggle the hub/bearing assembly by grasping it by the flange that the wheel studs mount to. If the flange wiggles, you need to replace the hub/bearing assembly.

Fifth, tire balancing. An imbalanced tire can lead to death wobble.

Sixth, Your steering box. This can be checked by having a helper turn the wheel left and right. Watch for the engagement of the steering shaft and watch the pittman arm turn, if there is play in either, there is the problem. Also, your steering box may be coming apart from the frame. Watch for this too as your helper turns the wheel. You can also try to wiggle the steering box on the frame itself. Check for play at the frame mount and bolts, which may be broken off inside the frame, where you cant see.

Seventh, EXTREME control arm angles. Anything over 3.5 inches of lift on stock-length control arms can cause death wobble, due to the mounting of said arms and the stresses on them.

Eighth, control arms themselves. Check all the bushings at the frame mounts and axle mounts. This applies to both stock arms and aftermarket. If your bushings need replacing, then replace them. The control arms keep your caster angle right so as your other axle components do what they were designed to do. Worn out bushings will be either visually detected, or have a helper put your rig in 4LO and watch the front axle as they drive the vehicle back and forth. If the inital torque really moves the front axle (essentially the pinion) up and down you need to look into bushing or even control arm replacement. (OR a Long Arm kit for those over 3.5 inches on stock length control arms)

Ninth, shocks. Your shocks mushy, bent shafts, or leaking fluid? Time to replace them. Yup, even shocks can cause death wobble. Check the mounting points on the axle, and also at the shock tower. If these are worn out, than replace them.


YEah on mine i put a 6" lift and 35" tires and started haveing problems witha death wobble, and i replaced everything said above, except putting adjustable control arms on it, and that is the problem it actually got so bad that it broke 2 of my control arms shifted the whole front end over about two inches, bent my brand new shocks, and the other two controll arms, but yeah make sure that instead of just replacing everything you check it first because it can get quite costly.
 
Back
Top