Keeping stock fog lights on with highbeams

Hello. Is it possible to keep the stock fog lights on when the highbeams are activated, without running another lead directly from the battery to the switch for the fog lights?

95 Cherokee. I was told perhaps simply cutting off a terminal on the relay or snipping one of the wires on the plug to the relay would stop them from turning off when you turn the highbeams on.....any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

Not sure if this applies to the '95, but.....there should be a WHT/VIO wire that goes from the FOG switch to the HEADLAMP switch.

Cut it at the at the HEADLAMP switch -- careful, there are two the same color, then connect that wire coming from the FOG switch to the TAN/BLK wire on the HEADLAMP switch.

Don't know about Indiana, but in most places I don't think it's Kosher to run run fogs and Hi-beams at the same time.

in most places it's not cool to run fogs and highbeams together. My suggestion is to wire the wht/vio to a relay, and use a switch to break the connection. That way you're cool on the road, and when you want to use the brights and fogs offroad you can just flip the switch.

If you have driving lights they come on with High beams, fog lights don't work in fog if your high beams are on.

Driving lights can be used with either dip or full beams, while fogs should be used with dip beams only.

Think on it this way - if you're going to use fogs, it's probably foggy. If it's foggy, you damn sure DON'T want to use full beams, since you'll get "whited out" and feel like you're inside a table tennis ball. NOT conductive to driving effectively...

There's a reason that fogs also tend to be amber - the amber light does a better job of NOT causing white-out than the white does, and that makes for better visibility.

There are three main sorts of auxiliary light:

1) Fog Lamps. Typically with an amber colour, they feature a WIDE dispersal pattern, and a LOW cut-off. The better ones actually have a slight downward cast inbuilt, and the BEST (IMO) are Per-Lux, which feature a wide pattern, low cutoff, and louvers over the lenses. These can be found at heavy truck and OTR supply shops. Should ONLY be used with dip beam.

2) Pencil-beam Driving Lamps - feature a concentrated beam with low dispersal, and offer probably twice the downroad visibility of your full beams. Good for plains driving. Can be used with dip or full beam - usually dip.

3) "Helper" driving lamps. Brighter than fogs with a white beam, they are not quite as wide as fog beams, and feature a much higher cut-off, and work to fill in what you lose in going from "dip" to "full" beam - side visibility. Can be used with dip or full beam - usually full.

Anything beyond these three will probably be a small floodlamp for roadside work, illuminating obstacles at night, or some other purpose.

I'm not trying to shut your idea down - I just want to see if there are any gaps in your education that might want filling, and try to help you A) drive better, and B) not annoy everyone else on the road...

5-90

Well the way the lights are right now, the switch is triggered off of the parking lamp circuit....as soon as your parking/marker lights are on, the switch for the Fogs is activated. The fog switch is also activated when lowbeams are on.

However, as soon as the highbeams are switched on, the power going to the fog switch is cut....

Does that help any?

I just don't want the power to the switch to be cut when the highbeams are activated.

Here are the lights in the middle, for S&G.

power the switch from a 12V Key-on space in the fuse panel. then you can turn them on or off as you please.

Problem Solved.

Then they won't flash with the marker lights when the vehicle is armed/disarmed, or if the alarm goes off. Plus they wouldn't alert me of a successful car start once I get the remote starter in soon.....

Those dont look like stock fogs...

For everyone who says fogs shouldn't be used with highs, I think you are right.

Those aren't fogs, they are Hella 550's driving lens, so they should probably be considered more of a aux light than fog.

Blaine, the simple answer has been givin to you;

Lou said,

"Not sure if this applies to the '95, but.....there should be a WHT/VIO wire that goes from the FOG switch to the HEADLAMP switch.

Cut it at the at the HEADLAMP switch -- careful, there are two the same color, then connect that wire coming from the FOG switch to the TAN/BLK wire on the HEADLAMP switch."

I've installed the factory fog light harness, if you rewire the switch like Lou suggested, you will satisfy the relay's need for a signal, and presto AUX lights anytime the parking lamps are on. You just have to make sure the colors are the same, if not you'll have to figure what they are. But the wire going from the fog switch to the high switch is the soloution you are looking for.

James

here is what I did. I removed my stock rusted out fog lamps like you. I replaced them with a driving lamp. but i did not utilizze the fog light wiring and switch. Rather I ran new wiring and a relay to kick the lights on with the high beams. So instead of trying dim your brights and fumble for the switch I simply dim the brights which kicks the auxillary driving lights off. It was always absurd that they put the fog lights on the bumper anyways, fog lights need to be mounted low to really work. Which brings me to what I did with the factory fog light wiring. I got a set of Hella projector fog lights and mounted them below the bumper. I know they are more prone to getting bashed offroad. but they are really beefy and have taken many an impact already with no harm, just need readjustment after. hope this helps

Is not having enough light what caused that "OWEEE" on the drivers side bumper. Those look super bright, I wouldnt want them on in the fog...good luck with whatever you decide.