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Transmission Pan

Jeep_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
On the Trails
Hey, I am going to change the transmission pan gasket and filter on my 1999 XJ, what do I need to torque the bolts to on the transmission pan? My transmission has 19 bolts if that helps any. Also do I have to torque the bolts on the filter? Thanks for any help!
 
Check the Tech section of my site - I've got a 1999FSM, so I've probably got the torque specs up there.

I usually only pull the pan every third or fourth time I change the fluid to check and clean the filter, since it's little more than a strainer anyhow. Do take the time to clean the magnet off (it's stuck into the pan.) Don't be worried about what you're cleaning off there now - just know that you cleaned it so you can see if anything has built up later. The particles and filings all over the thing this first time will be from transmission break-in, and some buildup there is perfectly normal.

I also find that putting in a few (three or four) studs, widly spaced, makes it easier to hold everyting in place while you get screws started. If you want to do so yourself, the screw holes are threaded M6-1.0, and you don't need very much stud (about 15-20m/m will do.)

I don't recall the torque spec offhand - what I've usually used is "two flats past finger tight" - turn the screws with your fingers until you can't go so (there should be no daylight between parts, but there's not a lot of tension,) and then an additional 1/3-turn with a wrench. Those cork gaskets are easy to crush...
 
Ok, I can get those bolts out, what kind of fasteners are on the filter? What do I do with the filler tube (does it just slide down with the pan)? Also, I notice that the bolts were pretty loose, I could turn them easily with one hand and it would take a while to torque them to 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs), when I put it all back together should I tighten them snug or should I torque them? What should I torque them to in in-lbs? Thanks.
 
1) Patience? A 10m/m socket with an inbuilt universal joint also helps. I've been meaning to redesign that crossmember for a while (that's part of the reason I only pull the pan every third time or so...)

2) Was it not listed on my site? Let me know if it's not there - but the AW4 didn't change mechancially over the years, so a "close year" listing will serve. However, I've not had any trouble with the "two flats past finger tight" that I'd mentioned. For the conversion -

1 pound-foot = 12 inch-feet. Easy (although I tend to list both units when it's 20 pound-feet or less.)
 
Thanks for the reply! I looked around for it for a bit but couldn't find it, I might try your method of tightening the bolts and see if it works for me.

What kind of fasteners are on the filter? I would like to have all the tools before I open everything up.

Are the bolts suppose to be so loose? I do not think that they are torqued down at all, is it ok to tighten them up when I put it back together? It is leaking so I am assuming it is because they are loose.
 
Be careful about overtightening as those bolts are in aluminum and strip real easy. Speaking from experience, if you happen to strip a bolt you can retap it to 1/4-20 pretty easy. As I recall the filter is held in by 2 or three regular bolts with a 10mm head. Keep the pan under it when you pull it lose as it will dump some more oil.
 
Correct - they're M6-1.0 hex heads, and you can use the same 10m/m socket you use for the pan screws (just clean it off first.) I've torn a couple of AW4s to bits - totally - and I was able to make the two "special" tools I needed: a bridge puller and something for very large snaprings.)

Apart from that, pretty much all of the internals can be removed using a 10m/m socket.
 
Thanks, it doesn't sound to bad, I will probably just stick to tighten the bolts without torquing them. What did you guys do with the filler tube? Does it come off after you take the pan off?
 
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