• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

tranny bolts

R

rubiconrescue

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NC
what kind of socket do i need for the weird bolts on top of the tranny? they look starish.


thanks for the help. got the tranny ready to come out except for them bolts:explosion
 
Someone else may have a better answer, but I think those are reverse torx. You can try to buy one, but I've found that a 12 point socket of the right size will work most of the time.

Once you've got them out you can replace them with ones of the appropriate grade with a normal hex head if you want.

Just my 2c.
 
You will need an "E12" socket - find it in a set from Lisle Tools (which, I believe, Sears carries. Also, check the better-stocked small local parts houses.) Using a 12-pount socket can slip, if you're not careful (and the thing fits just right.)

They are threaded 3/8"-16, so take them to the local and match the underhead length. Head style is not critical - you can use a hex head, socket head (hex/Torx,) or even a stud (which I do.)

Keep both internal and external Torx sockets handy - you'll need them on other jobs. The good news is that most of the screws use a standard thread (either SAE/inch or ISO/metric,) so you can replace them if you need to.
 
rubiconrescue said:
^thanks ill look for a "E12" in the morning. i was using a 3/8 12 point and it was sliping. damn things are on there!
Click to expand...

They're pretty stiff - and, as I'd said, using a 12-pound isn't a guarantee of a good grab on the things.

Nice to replace, tho...
 
i would take 5-90s advice and replace those E12 bolts with something else. when i tried to reuse the bolts, the head snapped off of one. i picked up some grade8 bolts at the auto parts store and i was good to go.

oh, and you can buy E (external star) sockets at the auto parts store as well....

-Tim
 
SAE Grade 8 is overkill - I'd use SAE Grade 5. Better would be stainless (CRES) - that's not somewhere you want to worry about rust...

If you use replace the screws with screws, use LocTite #222 or #242 (losing bellhousing screws is a pain in the arse, and leads to expensive repairs.) If you use studs, use LocTite #242 to retain the stuts, and use locknuts with Nylon collars so they don't back off.

Studs for the lower screws are difficult to find - they're 7/16"-14. Replace with SAE5 or CRES screws and retain with LocTite #242.
 
x2 on bolt replacement!
I made the mistake of reusing the E12 bolts.
And when I had to pull the tranny for the second time
one bolt head stripped. It was definitely an hour of frustration.
Ended up hammering a standard socket on the damaged bolt head.
Eddie
 
jeepnuts311 said:
lol, now you tell me.....i dunno if they were stainless, they were goldish in color...i guess overkill is better than using too weak of bolts

-Tim
Click to expand...

SAE8 will work - it's just overkill. The "gold" is probably zinc chromate, and that is used to differentiate SAE8 from SAE5 (which are plain zinc coated, and therefore silver.) Socket heads tend to be black oxide or phosphated.

Of course, you can just look at the screw head. Count the hash marks, and add two - that's your SAE grade. Stainless isn't "graded," and neither are other materials. SAE grades only apply to carbon steel, hardened and tempered, and only in hex head capscrews (with or without flange, with or without captive washer.)
 
I recently replaced a motor in a XJ that someone had rounded those bolts off trying to remove the engine as well, I guess thats why I got the Jeep cheap!

I had to lower the engine as far as I could and then weld nuts on top of those bolt heads to get them loose. Not much fun standing on your head welding but when all other methods failed, thats the only thing that got them out.

I replaced the bolts on that engine with some grade 8 hex heads same length and thread size.
 
When removing those bolts, I used a twelve point socket and a 3/8" drive breaker type bar. When I was turning them out, I was tapping on the bar to get an impact effect. The guy who designed them in should be around to have to remove them, then shot.
 
I got a free running XJ and figured I'd pull the engine (among other stuff) as spares for mine. I attempted to pull those wonderful external-torx-lookin'-bastards only to find the P.O. had rounded the completely off!! I ended up pulling engine, transmission, and transfer case as a complete assembly to get them out-- royal PITA!!!!!!!
I replaced them with standard bolts and can now get a Gear Wrench on them for the next time! Much better!!

--Shorty

P.S. it was worthit though! The P.O. (as it turns out) had rounded them off during an installation of a newly remanufactured transmission that I am now the proud owner of!!!:clap::clap:
 
Just goes to show: sometimes free IS a good thing...
 
I recently pulled a motor from an 88 xj,I also ran across those bolts,I think I used 10 mm boxed end wrench to break themloose,luckily they were not very tight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Remove AW-4 transmission
Replies
8
Views
2K
kastein
kastein
R
Where to buy front caster clevis
Replies
7
Views
2K
Rallyrs
R
Winterhawk
Quick 2 door front seat question
Replies
2
Views
2K
Winterhawk
Winterhawk
M
Automatic Trasmission Rebuild - What to Replace?
Replies
6
Views
2K
mhead
M
X
drivers door switches only work on accessory mode
Replies
7
Views
1K
XJJeepNewb
X
Back
Top