ACOS, LCAs and Alignment

For the past few days I have been searching and reading on lower control arms trying to figure out what I need if any at all, I have gotting some good info but no defind answer either way for my situation. Let me explain what I got. I don’t do anymore heavy rock crawling. This rig is being built more for expedition.

You always want details so here ya go!

96 XJ
4.0
231 T-case with spline boot cover
8.25 rear
D30 front
3” Rustys spring packs and 180# coils.
Rustys shocks
2 degree shims in rear
Tcase drop kit
JKS sway bar discos.
Kevins offroad JKS tracbar conversion kit.
31x10.50x15 BFG ATs

The rear shims and T-case drop is just temp until I can get a SYE in.

I bought this bone stock and the OEM suspension was gone real bad. I figure I spend 100 bucks more then replacing stock springs and got Rustys 3” kit. Everything went together good. About 1 month in the front started rubbing on the 31’s. I noticed now the front is saggin pretty good. I read that some other Rusty customers have had similar problems with the coils prematurely sagging. When the install was done and for the first few weeks it sat level and didn’t rub.

Most other XJs are level so I jacked up the front of mine from the bumper to make it level and it looks like it needs about another 1.5” to 1.75” to level with rear. I was thinking of going with the ACOS system to level it off plus when I install my bumper and winch I can compensate for the weight with ACOS.

I have let this go to long and now have “diagonal” or forward swept feathering wear. This definitely is a caster issue.

My question is this. With the ACOS installed giving me the 3 to 4” to level the jeep off. Can an alignment be done using the OEM LCAs? Can this work as a temporary?

We just bought a house and money is tight right now!

So how much lift will the front have in total?

the total front would be about 3.5 is from what i am figuring, but could be as much as 4" . That is determined by the minimal setting of the ACOS wich i believe is 1.25" for my application.

I have the Rusty's 3 inch lift and when I switched to aftermarket lca's it gave me a little more lift in the front. You might want to get the new lca's before the ACOS. Get adjustable lca's, so you can fine tune after all the weight in on.

Jess said:

I have the Rusty's 3 inch lift and when I switched to aftermarket lca's it gave me a little more lift in the front. You might want to get the new lca's before the ACOS. Get adjustable lca's, so you can fine tune after all the weight in on.

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I had the lift height at first but the ROF springs sagged quick. so even if i put lcas in i still have saggin springs

I dont understand how installing aftermarket LCAs will give me the 1.25 gain of lift i ned to level it off. I could see maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" when the caster is recorrected.

I really think you will feel the difference with that much lift. I agree with Jess get some ajustable arms it will be worth it in the long run. I say go with the ACOS and get a feel for it, then go with the arms.

Jess said:

I have the Rusty's 3 inch lift and when I switched to aftermarket lca's it gave me a little more lift in the front.

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Try as I might, I just can't see how installing aftermarket LCAs will give anyone lift. I can understand that properly adjusting the wheelbase to center the tires in the wheel wells might help reduce rubbing.

I just checked the Caster adjustment on the LCAs. I always get the pos and neg mixed up i think its too much negative. the bottom of the axle is further back. I looked and the caster adj. looks to be at its furtherst back adj. wich means there is a whole lot of adj. left to get it corrected to positive.

Either way, I do plan on going with Adjustable LCAs but like i said i am on a budget now and just want to know if i install the ACOS to get it leveled and now with seeing how much caster adj is left i think i can get an alignment done and it will hold me off until i can get the adj. LCAs.

does this make sense with you guys?

Now if this does sound like a good plan is there a good 4x4 shop in the East vally AZ I can trust that would do a proper alingment job on a lixted XJ and know what there are doing. Could i trust 4wheelparts shop?

There is no additional lift from the LCA's. There might be newer bushings and therefor it might resist sagging some (maybe a 1/2" or so) but it shouldn't stop the tires from rubbing and shouldn't be considered a fix.

I ran a 4.5" lift with stock control arms for several years. Other have done the same. I didn't have any issues adjusting the castor shims to get a good castor setting and make it work as a TEMPORARY solution. The ride will not be as good, and the arms are weak, but it should work just fine if you want to put the ACOS in, have it all aligned well and then down the road replace the LCA's. Personally this is what I would probably do. I might even forget all the money on the ACOS and just use spacers.

Michael

2xtreme said:

There is no additional lift from the LCA's. There might be newer bushings and therefor it might resist sagging some (maybe a 1/2" or so) but it shouldn't stop the tires from rubbing and shouldn't be considered a fix.

I ran a 4.5" lift with stock control arms for several years. Other have done the same. I didn't have any issues adjusting the castor shims to get a good castor setting and make it work as a TEMPORARY solution. The ride will not be as good, and the arms are weak, but it should work just fine if you want to put the ACOS in, have it all aligned well and then down the road replace the LCA's. Personally this is what I would probably do. I might even forget all the money on the ACOS and just use spacers.

Michael

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Thats what i am wondering if i can do. Yes...it is a temp solution being on budget. I was thining of ACOS cause what ever bushing i get maybe too much or not enough and i am stuck at that height. Also with the ACOS i would be able to turn them up when a bumper and winch goes on the front so this sag does not happen again.

ramjet308 said:

Thats what i am wondering if i can do. Yes...it is a temp solution being on budget. I was thining of ACOS cause what ever bushing i get maybe too much or not enough and i am stuck at that height. Also with the ACOS i would be able to turn them up when a bumper and winch goes on the front so this sag does not happen again.

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I am not saying don't get the ACOS. They seem like a great solution. I am just cheap and personally can't justify the cost (then again, I made my own spacers because I had difficulty justifying the cheap spacers).

You should be fine at that height, but make sure you get your castor sorted out as soon as you settle on a height.

I miss wheeling in that area. I used to live in Prescott a number of years back and really enjoyed the area, camping, wheeling!!

Michael

2xtreme said:

I miss wheeling in that area. I used to live in Prescott a number of years back and really enjoyed the area, camping, wheeling!!

Michael

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We have been in AZ for 3 yrs now from Minnesota and may finally get back on the trails this summer. have been in 4x4 hibernating for 3.5 years and hating every minute of it

anyways.

I measured the springs from a fixed point at the bottom of the spring mount to the spring cushion then i jacked it up till the jeep was level. it looks like i need a 1.5 spacer witht he spring cushion. so i think i may just go get some 1.5 poly spacers and get it aligned and go from there

Here is my 96 with the following set-up;

OME HD DAKAR rear springs with TeraFlex 1.5 shacks, 3.75" total

OME MD fronts with ACOS set to minimum, Currie adj. LCA's set to stock length, Currie adj Trac bar. 3.5" total.

The lift has been on for a year and the rear springs have seen plenty of towing and the rear stays loaded with around 200# of gear all of the time. No noticeable sag at all, flexes very well.

I see no problem using your stock arms other than some tire rub and a little less flex.

Here are some poser shots of how the jeep sets loaded, flexed and static

ramjet308 said:

Now if this does sound like a good plan is there a good 4x4 shop in the East vally AZ I can trust that would do a proper alingment job on a lixted XJ and know what there are doing. Could i trust 4wheelparts shop?

Click to expand...

Do it yourself!Alignment shops are pretty pointless since the only thing thats adjustable is castor/toe.Its a piece of cake in your driveway!
Screw the ACOS,buy spacers,take the money saved and buy some good adjustable control arms.All problems solved!

RCP Phx said:

Do it yourself!Alignment shops are pretty pointless since the only thing thats adjustable is castor/toe.Its a piece of cake in your driveway!

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I used to have a 93 ZJ which had the LCA front bolts on that degree washer that spins. My 96 XH has some sort of dual bolt system on the frame side bracket of the LCA. I know if i loosen those the LCA moves foward but how do i keep them moving back? Are there shims?

RCP Phx said:

Do it yourself!Alignment shops are pretty pointless since the only thing thats adjustable is castor/toe.Its a piece of cake in your driveway!
Screw the ACOS,buy spacers,take the money saved and buy some good adjustable control arms.All problems solved!

Click to expand...

I suppose your right. The alignment was good till the lift and i know all that is off is just the caster.

Am going to run to Harbor freight and get a angle finder and check from there and get it best to 6 degrees i think is what i read. The question is though how can i shim it to move it foward?

I think you find you already have to much castor!

RCP Phx said:

I think you find you already have to much castor!

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Too much or too little. I always get the positive and negative arse backwards. The bottom of the axles needs to be moved forward. The LCAs in the Caster adjustment slots look to be all the way back to begin with, so i have the whole adj. to work with.

i just need to dig up shims and get an angle finder

Check out this website:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

He has info on how to do the alignment, dimensions to make your own shims (not sure where you are going to get them locally ).

It should be very helpful.

Michael

I mayjust call a Dealer today and find out if they got them and if so how many millions they want. Actually for the last few parts i got from them they have been on some stuff cheaper then the parts store.