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Installed 14 bolt...Drive Shaft Options?

J

Jimminyc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
GJ, Colorado
Im sure other people are running one tons and i wanted to find out what you did for a rear drive shaft. Ive got the AA SYE but im not sure i want to go with the CV joint in the rear for strength. I want to have the 14 bolt yoke on one end of the shaft, and the XJ yoke on the other. Im not sure if i should just stick with a front DS and change the rear yoke (I dont want to do the adapter U-joint--Expensive and hard to find in a pinch)
SO, what have you done? The DS shop will charge an arm and a leg to start from scratch. Has anyone else ditched the CV joint?
 
CV joints are crazy strong. In all my expierence, I've never seen a drivshaft fail at the double cardan joint. Maybe wear out, but never fail.

I would go with a double cardan joint at the t-case, and if you want beefy. Set the 14bolt up with a 1350 yoke.

And for the record, prefessional rock crawlers run only 1310 and 1330 joints. And they bitch slap thier drivetrains.
 
I run a 1310/1350 conversion joint on the rear yoke. It is neither expensive nor hard to find. I carry a spare one just in case.

I've broken two front 60 shafts with a driveline full of 1310 stuff.
 
I've had good luck and excellent customer service from Tom Woods custom driveshafts. For around $300 they will build you a custom shaft that will hold up for the long haul.
 
call High Angle, tell him the spline on your current shaft, and he'll make you a new end. Just slip it on grease it and bolt it up. On the other hand, you might want the 1310 so it will be the weak link,
 
RyanM said:
On the other hand, you might want the 1310 so it will be the weak link,
Click to expand...

:D Like I said, I've busted two front D60 axle shafts with 1310 drivelines, one inner and one stub. With a NP231/D300 doubler and NV4500 trans before the driveshafts. As long as you're not exceeding the normal angle for it, the 1310 isn't the weak link a lot of people make it out to be. A few guys I run with have YJ's with SBC's powering them, 39.5's, 1-tons, etc and they've not broken a single 1310 joint yet. My one friend broke a NP205 output shaft first.

I also wouldn't drop $300 on a 1310 driveshaft. Totally not worth it, and even if it were, I would personally go with High Angle. I'm running a modified front XJ shaft in both the front and rear of mine (lengthened it myself) , and if you had a local driveshaft shop do the same thing it'd be well under $100. Since I made mine I just made some more spare ones and it's all good.
 
I thought about using a modified front but i was worried about how small the shaft gets where it necks down to the slip splines. I wasn;t sure how it would all hold up under heavy wheelin. :)
I think modifying the front would be the cheapest way. What do you think will break first? The CV, or a joint?
 
Even if you order a new 1310 shaft from somewhere, chances are it'll be the same splines and end yokes that are used to make it.

I would say the individual joint would bust before the double cardan, because there's a bigger likelihood of it getting bound up (the double cardan keeps that under control better), but like I said I haven't broken either yet.
 
vetteboy said:
I run a 1310/1350 conversion joint on the rear yoke. It is neither expensive nor hard to find. I carry a spare one just in case.
Click to expand...


X2
 
If i keep the conversion joints, i should run a spare. I know the DT part number for the 1310-1350 is 5-460...Im also running a front HP ford D60 with a conversion joint. Anyone remember that conversion joint #???
 
When I did my 1 ton swap initially I ran conversion joints on both drivelines. 1310-1330 in the front and 1310-1350 for the 14 bolt. I never had a problem with it.
 
I have blown up a 1310 CV rear shaft. A little too much throttle and a little too much bounce trying to get up this ledge. I hit a tall ledge a little bit too hard trying to get over the top and had all 4 tires off the ground about a foot and a half with the throttle to the floor spinning the 4.6L stroker at 4k in second gear and when it all came back down and a POP came from the rear. Who would have thought dry rocks could provide that much grip :D I thought I broke a shaft but instead a u joint blew up along with the ball in the CV head. A new CV head and u joints and its been fine ever since. I still have the factory front shaft installed up front with a 1310 to 1330 conversion joint connecting to a HP Dana 44 and its been fine.

AARON
 
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