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UCA help

9

92XJT

NAXJA Forum User
Location
cascade, wi
Well decided to try and tackle changing the lower UCA bushing finally. After some time I got the stupid nut off the tork head, but now can't get the tork bolt all the way out. The axle seems to have moved enough to get the bolt stuck. Currently the rig is sitting on it wheels still and I tried to com-along the axle back but it doesn't seem to help. I can turn the bolt just can't get it out - looks like the threads got ate up now, but planned on putting a normal bolt in place of the tork head.

Just looking for any suggestions - course I have also read its a pain to get the bushing out and have looked at the thread where you can make your own.

UCAremoval-1.jpg
 
I recently replaced my UCAs with OEMs (until my adjustables are made by a local club member). I tried jacking the axle every way I could and used ideas found here thru searching but, it finally took a BFH and a punch that got it out. Took a com-a-long attached to the TC support to get it back in. I needed a new bolt but, I expected that. BTW, just do one side at a time.
 
I tried one of my punches but the arm is far enough outta allignment now that it won't even go thru the hole. Well probably will try some more later, figured I would jump on here to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong. I am hoping to get some adj UCA soon too - was it hard to put your arms back on (stock ones) after having all these issues getting them out?
 
Are both front wheels off the floor?
When I replaced my stock upper and lower arms I jacked the vehicle up and removed both front tires and disconnected the sway bar. Then I moved the axle around using the floor jack. I also found that sometimes taking the track bar loose will help get those bolts in and out. Make sure you spray plenty of PB Blaster in there to help those bolts slide out.
 
92XJT said:
I tried one of my punches but the arm is far enough outta allignment now that it won't even go thru the hole. Well probably will try some more later, figured I would jump on here to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong. I am hoping to get some adj UCA soon too - was it hard to put your arms back on (stock ones) after having all these issues getting them out?
Click to expand...

The first one came off without a hitch. I had it on jackstands at the "frame rails" and I believe that the tires were barely touching. Replacement OEM UCA went on without a hitch on the first side. 2 weeks passed before new ones arrived and I was engrossed in a pita rms and oil pan replacement during my down time. I mignt be flamed but hook a com-a-long to the axle in a place that will pull it in the direction you need. The track bar, sway bar, lower shock disconnections were all tried due to my oil pan removal and it was a combination mod. The second OEM replacement UCA is where I got in trouble but, as they say........"all XJs are different".

Good Luck!

Reed
 
Well got it out finally - took the trac bar off and did a combination of com-along and jacking up the passenger side. Bolt is shot - threads + area is necked down were it was rubbing. Got the old bushing out - fairly easy (not a good sign - lol). Now the new one went in real easy, but something I feel is wrong with my axle mounts. The bushing doesn't really sit good in the outer part of the bushing mount - maybe bent from previous owner when installed lift? I'll post up a pic later when they load. thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Okay pics loaded faster then I thought - love not having dial up anymore.

New vs old
UCA3.jpg



New Bushing going in - let me know if you all see were the problem could be. I'm leaning towards a bent mount.
bushing3.jpg


bushing.jpg

bushing2.jpg


Also the strap has no tension on it currently so its not being pulled in any shape or form.
 
Looks good to me. When you put in the new bolt it will tighten the uca up and look a lot better than it does now.
 
What size bolt do I need to replace with a regular hex head? I searched and found the post in regards to this before but now can't find it.
 
It's metric, just take the old with you to the hardware store.
 
Try using a bottle jack or the stock jack under the forwardmost part under the axle. As you apply pressure, it will cause the axle to rotate back and make the bolt come out much easier. Do one side at a time. Also, don't use a torch to remove the bushing. You will weaken the uca mount on the axle and it will eventually tear of break.
 
Use a floor jack and lift under the track bar mount on the axle side. Works like a champ.

As for the bushings, check out RE's new rebuildable bushings.
 
Got it all done - have a nice new grade 8 standard bolt now, in place of the torq head. Still have some concerns over the axle mount for the bushing - even after tightened down it still didn't seem to sit in there right. At least I got it to the point were its driveable to the shop for when I do my front gears. While they do that, I will have them look at the passenger mount. Want to say the bolt was 3/8x3" long for the replacement.
 
92XJT said:
Got it all done - have a nice new grade 8 standard bolt now, in place of the torq head. Still have some concerns over the axle mount for the bushing - even after tightened down it still didn't seem to sit in there right. At least I got it to the point were its driveable to the shop for when I do my front gears. While they do that, I will have them look at the passenger mount. Want to say the bolt was 3/8x3" long for the replacement.
Click to expand...

I still think that you have done well! It makes me reexamine my passenger side Oem uca D30 mount (I have many more curves than yours!)

Please Keep us posted!

Thanks,

Reed
 
the absolute easiest way to rotate the axle is to take a pipe wrench to the knuckle and use a floor jack to jack up the end of the pipe wrench.
 
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