Tools for straightening out body panals?

Okay I am trying to clean up this mess, haha. Getting a new header panel, front fender and doors, but I will need t oknock out the dents/dings/creases as best I can on the rear portion of the Jeep. I am going to try to flatten most of it out from the inside.

I am wondering what is used for this type work? A certain type of hammer and anything flat for the outside? I just wanna get it straight enough for some plate steel like PMW upper 1/4 guards, etc.

Something like this might be what you want, it will let you get the panel fairly smooth without drilling holes in it or the need to access the backside of the panel.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3223
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91709

89Daytona said:

Something like this might be what you want, it will let you get the panel fairly smooth without drilling holes in it or the need to access the backside of the panel.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3223
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91709

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So you weld on the studs and pull/push on them?

yep. but, only use it in the area you cant reach from the other side. if you want to flatten out those creases get a large piece of flat steel, fairly thick, nothing you can bend or flex, and have someone hold it against the outside while you tap on it from inside with a large face body hammer. if the person on the outside moves at all you're just going to push the whole area out in a bubble shape, so make sure they have some strong arms good luck! you should be able to get decent results, as long as you're not trying to smooth it out for a show finish paint job or anything. oh and you might want to pull the glass in the rear, just in case.

ZachMan said:

So you weld on the studs and pull/push on them?

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The yellow gun basically spot welds the copper pins to the body panels, then you use the slide hammer (that should be included with the gun) to pull the metal back to near original shape. You can use it on any area, but you would probably still need to use the "hammer and dolly" method to get the panel flat after using the dent puller.

GrimmJeeper said:

yep. but, only use it in the area you cant reach from the other side. if you want to flatten out those creases get a large piece of flat steel, fairly thick, nothing you can bend or flex, and have someone hold it against the outside while you tap on it from inside with a large face body hammer. if the person on the outside moves at all you're just going to push the whole area out in a bubble shape, so make sure they have some strong arms good luck! you should be able to get decent results, as long as you're not trying to smooth it out for a show finish paint job or anything. oh and you might want to pull the glass in the rear, just in case.

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Thanks yeap my plan is to replace header panel, fender, doors with factory peices (of course none are black) and then staraighten out that rear portion and then bedline it all and add some armor to cover it all up like the TJ guys do.

Anyone know how hard it is to replace the header panel/fenders? I know it will take awhile, but wondering if I'll come across any snags or need any special tools?

89Daytona said:

The yellow gun basically spot welds the copper pins to the body panels, then you use the slide hammer (that should be included with the gun) to pull the metal back to near original shape. You can use it on any area, but you would probably still need to use the "hammer and dolly" method to get the panel flat after using the dent puller.

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Would this kit work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-PC-AUTO-BODY-...goryZ303QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

ZachMan said:

wondering if I'll come across any snags or need any special tools?

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shouldnt be too bad, you'll need torx bits tho if you dont have em already. the rest is just nuts and bolts. if you live in a rusty area, soak the hell out of every nut and bolt you can see for a few days before starting. it shouldnt be too hard just time consuming

GrimmJeeper said:

shouldnt be too bad, you'll need torx bits tho if you dont have em already. the rest is just nuts and bolts. if you live in a rusty area, soak the hell out of every nut and bolt you can see for a few days before starting. it shouldnt be too hard just time consuming

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So I hear its held on by like 10 torx bolts? I am sure they are all easy to get to and the same size, lol

ZachMan said:

Would this kit work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/7-PC-AUTO-BODY-FENDER-REPAIR-TOOL-HAMMER-AND-DOLLY-SET_W0QQitemZ230131111532QQihZ013QQcategoryZ303QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31277
Those kits aren't as nice as proffesional sets... but they do work. You could also use the method GrimmJeeper said, the thick metal basically takes the place of the dolly.

89Daytona said:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31277
Those kits aren't as nice as proffesional sets... but they do work. You could also use the method GrimmJeeper said, the thick metal basically takes the place of the dolly.

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Thnaks there is a HF by my house.

I am thinking that the upper rear 1/4 has some curve to it or is it completly flat? Thats the main theing with the dolly, all I see a curved ones. I guess the metal thing would work, but I like the control of a dolly.

The dolly work is for finish mostly.
The best advice (somebody once gave to me) is to work the metal back out, in the reverse of how it was crushed, dented or creased. Think like a mirror.
I usually have a lot better results using jacks to rough it back into shape. Get creative and have a large selection of wood handy. Don't think small, if you have too cross the entire vehicle with a 2X4 to get a good base for the screw jack or whatever, do it.
Anything you hit with a hammer is likely going to stretch. Try to spread out the force with a foot long piece of wood or something.
Get a book on dolly on and dolly off techniques, shrinking hammers and the like.
I'm not a body guy, but have done a fair amount of sheet metal work.
The last door I pulled out, I put a chuck of wood on the inside, drilled a few holes and wood screwed (with large washers) the crease almost flat. Then put in a couple of eye bolts and used my high jack, a tree and a strap to jack the larger dent out. Worked out well for me. Closed up the holes with some rain gutter soldering flux and a drop of solder.

The last header panel/fenders I replaced took about 2 hours to get everything together, all the body lines straight (as straight as they would go), straighten a badly belt bumper bracket, and align the headlights. I did not replace the flares or spash guards on the fenders, however.
Good Luck!

If you have dents in hard to get to areas, such as a door panel. You can deflate a football and put it inside the panel then inflate it slowly. This has worked for me on the rear quarter panel where you place the football between the panel and the frame where the tail light is.

TomH said:

If you have dents in hard to get to areas, such as a door panel. You can deflate a football and put it inside the panel then inflate it slowly. This has worked for me on the rear quarter panel where you place the football between the panel and the frame where the tail light is.

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Or if you want to spend more money (than on a football) http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2619&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=504&iSubCat=513&iProductID=2619