Rear bumper removal, end caps, tools

Novice here '95 Cherokee trying to install a hitch. My problem looks like its going to be the bumper. I've searched and can't decide whether to focus on the brackets or remove the bumper from the bracket. Since the right endcap was broken I decided to take them off and right away am stuck on the left unbroken endcap. I read about removing two small bolts and then pushing and sliding but the flat disk on top apparently spins in the end cap. Is the choice to break the endcap or try to bust the nut? Also one reccommendation (for the bumper) suggests a ratcheting wrench. I think 15mm. So I could use some advice on the tools to buy to start doing some of my own work. My old stuff is all from a basic '68 or '69 100-pc. craftsman set. Never made it to the metric age.
So the immediate goal is to install a HiddenHitch with nutstrips (on order).

I replaced the rear bumper on my 98 with a tomken w/built in 2" receiver. Got tired of working those nuts inside so I just drilled holes in the face of the bumper, stuck a socket on each nut, stuck a 6" extension thru and spun em off. If I had been going to put the bumper back on I would have picked up some rubber plugs and used them. I had my rear bumper off 2 or 4 times and always ended up with massive blood loss and badly scraped hands hence the holes...

On an 84-96 you do not have to remove the endcaps to remove the bumper. They do not attach at all to the body. To get the bumper off, you have two options. Either you can remove the bumper brackets from the frame (4 bolts per bracket, fairly easily reached but also fairly easily sheared if rusty). Or you can remove the bumper from its brackets (two bolts per side). The bolts are pretty hard to reach up there, and you need a really good ratchet with fine teeth or you'll run out of swinging room. Once you get it started you can also use a 3.8 inch air ratchet but it's usually too rusty and stiff to start the bolts with one.

For tools, if you already have the ratchet handle, etc., and it's a decent enough Craftsman one, just get the metric sockets. If you're going to take the bumper off the brackets on the vehicle, use 3.8 inch drive. You may need a very short (like 1 or 1 1/2 inch) extension, too. I don't thingk 1/2" drive will fit. A basic set of Craftsman 6 point sockets shouldn't be too punishing in price. I'd try taking the brackets off the frame first. Get lots of rust busting juice on the bolts. As I recall, they protrude a little through the other side of the bulkhead they're screwed into, so if you can find a little hole somewhere and drench them, do it. Then carefully try to loosen the bolts without shearing. The secret is not to turn too far too fast. Go back and forth. Try to develop a feel for when the bolt is actually twisting instead of turning, and stop. If it comes out a little way and sticks, lube it and screw it back in. Keep doing that and it will come out. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to the way these things rust. I've had relatively shiny ones be a total bear to get off, but when the brackets on my 87 rotted right off and the bumper fell onto the ground, all 8 bolts spun off with no problem.

If you just can't seem to get the brackets off, then attack the bumper-to-bracket bolts. They're usually easier to turn, if you can get at them, and if you shear them, you can just replace the spring nuts, no drilling and retapping required.

It's easier to deal with the endcaps when the bumper is off.

I've found that the easiest way to remove the rear bumper is with a 15mm 3/8" drive socket, a 1/2 drive wrench, and an adapter in the middle. If you use a 3/8" wrench (and no extension), you can't rotate the wrench very far because it will hit the lip of the rear crossmember. If you use a 3" extension (the only length I've got) between the socket and wrench, you can't rotate the wrench very far because it will hit the flat bottom of the bumper. If you use the socket-adapter-wrench combination, you should be able to get a nice wide swing since the wrench should end up between the rear crossmember and rear bumper.

Thanks for the careful process and advice guys. I'll be blasting the bolts until the strips arrive and will use your tool combination and process.

Bear in mind that once you remove the bumper, it will likely not line up with the holes again when you reinstall it. This is due to the racking, twisting, parking lot bumps and other nudges the bumper has seen over the years.

So it could take a big of grunting and swearing to get everything back together. Get all of the bolts started, but do not tighten any up. This should give you some room to move the bumper around a bit.