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Re-introduction and a few questions

Lilian

NAXJA Forum User
Location
West L.A.
In January 2006 I first came to this forum, asking for help to finally get our '97 Cherokee fixed up, since it was having some problems none of the 3 shops my husband took it to had been able to take care of. MJR was so nice and offered to have a look, and it's running great now.

Since then I've been pretty quiet, but have still been reading the forum occasionally. I just didn't have anything to post about, since the 97 is a 2WD and primarily used for my husband's work.

We both got bitten by the Jeep bug though, and actually took it on some trails in Colorado last summer, which was a lot of fun. We fared a lot better than expected, even though it's just a 2WD. In the fall we went back and got to drive my MIL's Rubicon Unlimited, which of course was a totally different experience. :D

I don't want to bore anyone with a novel, so to make this short, in February I finally got my own Jeep, and it's even the exact one I really wanted but didn't think I'd be able to afford just yet (Some current pics here).

Now we finally have the money available to actually modify it some for offroading (nothing extreme though, it's also my daily driver now), which brings me to my questions:

It's a 2001 Cherokee 4-door 4WD 4.0L with Chrysler 8.25 3" Rear Axle and NP231 Transfer Case (part-time). Currently it has 29" tires on it, but once it's lifted and we have had a bit more use of these relatively new tires, we want to replace them with 31"s.

So basically we figure we need a lift kid, rock rails, and some skid plates. Here is what we've come up with for a list with Mike's help:

JKS SuperNerf Rock Rails
JKS HD X-Member (includes transfer case skid plate)
JKS Quicker Disconnects
Skid Row gas tank skid plate
Rough Country 3" Suspension Lift Kit with Nitro 9000 shocks and replacement rear leaf springs

A few things we're trying to determine - on the JKS web site there's a note with the HD X-Member that states:
"Some 2000-01 models may require rear engine mount assembly from 1999 and earlier models."
How can we tell in advance if this will be needed?

With the lift kit they have an option for a steering stabilizer. Is this something we should order?

Finally, it was suggested that we might need a slip yoke conversion and rear drive shaft with the lift kit. Anyone else with 3" lifts find this necessary?

Other thoughts and suggestions?

Any recommendations on the best places to buy these parts?

Also hi to Robert, whom we met after we last had the Jeeps worked on and Mike took us over to his place to have a look at his Cherokee. Sorry we didn't make the M&G that week, or Big Bear, but I promise we'll show up once my Jeep is fit for adventuring. :)
 
Since no one has chimed in yet, I can say you won't need the SYE and CV drive shaft with a 3 inch lift. I've got a 4.5 " Rubicon Express lift sand have experienced no driveshaft vibration.
 
You've got a great base to work from. My black rig is roughly the same platform.

My advise?

Change as little as possible. I'd also forget the Rough Country kit in favor of the RE 3.5 kit with full leafs and the RE Doestch Tech shocks. Keep the stock x-member, get A Skid Row T-case skid or similar. The idea I work from is this: If you want to change things for the sake of changing things, go ahead. It WILL make your life more complicated, and, unless you have a very specific application in mind that you want from the Jeep, you are just wasting time, and money.

Why go thru changing the mount and God knows what else just for the sake of having a HD x-member? I don't have one, and it's great. Beat it up, and get a new one from some dummy changing theirs out for free. :D

Same thing with bumpers. :D

The late models have a plastic tank, I've run mine thru some nasty stuff time and time again. No skid. :D

But, I do have a reciever back there for a tow point, it's also is pretty effective at keeping the departure angle where it needs to be to keep the tank off most of the rocks, and I drive with the whole senario in mind.

Take that money and get a lunch box locker for the rear, or the front, or both.

Then go have fun, don't change anything until you can absolutely prove to yourself you need it. Which means, learn how to drive. :D

The slip yoke is a total unkown until you've lifted, regardless of what anyone says.

--ron
 
I would probably get a trackbar at least. maybe just the Rubicon Express one (RE1600). I put that on when I had a small lift. And I would probably go with AJS super rails, there alot cheaper and hold up really well. AJSOFFROADARMOR.COM.

and look at DPG webstie for some rock protection. Maybe better prices then JKS and SkidRow. just and idea.

Jeep looks nice.Post some pictures when you get it lifted.

NICK
 
Welcome back and nice rig. I agree with both of the other posts. But I would get a good limited slip for the Dana 30 over a lunch box locker. For a DD the locker can get to be annoying for daily use. The LSD will be invisable on the street and with the mild lift you will be running I see no need to lock the front.

Like the Capt said with the SYE the only way to know if you need it is to lift it. My 2000 was fine on 4.5" but my buddy got vibes with a 2" BB. It is all in the XJ.
 
shelbyluvv said:
Welcome back and nice rig. I agree with both of the other posts. But I would get a good limited slip for the Dana 30 over a lunch box locker. For a DD the locker can get to be annoying for daily use. The LSD will be invisable on the street and with the mild lift you will be running I see no need to lock the front.

...

Keep in mind Bo, that a limited slip is no locker at all off road. It's usefullness ends at the pavement.

I think that's one of the major selling points for just locking the front if you'll be doing only one locker. On the street, a front locker is completely invisible, unless you are in 4 wheel drive / have the front engaged. Detroits and lunch box lockers rely on input torque, which, if you are in 2 wheel drive, is not there.

--ron
 
The JKS SupersNerfs are a little more expensive but I love mine. They have held up REALLY well and have saved me lots of money. The hd crossmember could be substituted with a DPG belly skid since it fits over the stock crossmember. I'd agree with the RE 3.5 vs Ruff Country. You can go many places without lockers but they definitely help. Hold off on the lockers until you need to regear for bigger tires.

Step by Step is the way to go.

my 99 required a SYE with 4.5 lift but at 3-3.5, you can wait and see if your drivetrain gets vibes or sounds like a blender, but make sure you allocated funds for that and a new driveshaft just in case.
 
Lilian said:
Also hi to Robert, whom we met after we last had the Jeeps worked on and Mike took us over to his place to have a look at his Cherokee. Sorry we didn't make the M&G that week, or Big Bear, but I promise we'll show up once my Jeep is fit for adventuring. :)


Hi Lillian,

Glad to see you posting again. Your Jeep is so nice and clean! I can't wait to see it lifted and on the trails with us.

For some of the parts you asked about, do a little searching around. You will find some other options that will cost less and do a great job. There are many options for rock rails and skid plates.

Look at the NAXJA sponsors:

JCR Offroad - goos price on bumpers and rock rails

DPG Offroad - skids and lift kits (Fantastic guy and good prices) His belly skid and gas tank skid are fantastic!

AJ's Offroad Armor - one heck of a guy to work with. bumpers, skids, rock rails...

As for the lift, I like the Ruff Country 3" we installed on Ashley's Jeep. It rode very nice after.

You may want to look into the Rubicon Express 3.5" lift with rear leaf springs. It is a little more money, but a better starting point in my opinion. the Ruff Country lift is a great value though. You can always get a longer shackles for the rear and spacers for the front and add an inch or two.

Good Luck!

See you soon....
 
mdickerson said:
Since no one has chimed in yet, I can say you won't need the SYE and CV drive shaft with a 3 inch lift. I've got a 4.5 " Rubicon Express lift sand have experienced no driveshaft vibration.

Captain Ron said:
The slip yoke is a total unkown until you've lifted, regardless of what anyone says.

Ok I'll chime in on this one. First there is one major difference on say 87-95 and 96-01 XJ's that answer this question. The 87-95 have a internally lubricated slip yoke that is supported by a bushing in the t-case tailhousing. 96-01 do not and the slip yoke is not supported except where it rides on the shaft. This later design is prone to vibrations even at stock height (see TSB 03-01-98).

Even a seemingly small vibration can lead to failure of joints faster than normally. Yes 87-95 can run a lift without doing a SYE but they should at minimum run a clearanced slip yoke (YJ style) because even at 2.5" of lift when unloaded will cause the stock yokes to bind up. 96-01 the solution is really an SYE.
 
Captain Ron said:
On the street, a front locker is completely invisible, unless you are in 4 wheel drive / have the front engaged. Detroits and lunch box lockers rely on input torque, which, if you are in 2 wheel drive, is not there.[/COLOR]

Ah right. No, sort of. They are noticeable (noisy) when turning at slow speed and u-turns and I hate that about mine but it works off-road.
 
Lilian said:
In January 2006 I first came to this forum, asking for help to finally get our '97 Cherokee fixed up, since it was having some problems none of the 3 shops my husband took it to had been able to take care of. MJR was so nice and offered to have a look, and it's running great now.

Since then I've been pretty quiet, but have still been reading the forum occasionally. I just didn't have anything to post about, since the 97 is a 2WD and primarily used for my husband's work.

We both got bitten by the Jeep bug though, and actually took it on some trails in Colorado last summer, which was a lot of fun. We fared a lot better than expected, even though it's just a 2WD. In the fall we went back and got to drive my MIL's Rubicon Unlimited, which of course was a totally different experience. :D
I don't want to bore anyone with a novel, so to make this short, in February I finally got my own Jeep, and it's even the exact one I really wanted but didn't think I'd be able to afford just yet (Some current pics here).

Now we finally have the money available to actually modify it some for offroading (nothing extreme though, it's also my daily driver now), which brings me to my questions:

It's a 2001 Cherokee 4-door 4WD 4.0L with Chrysler 8.25 3" Rear Axle and NP231 Transfer Case (part-time). Currently it has 29" tires on it, but once it's lifted and we have had a bit more use of these relatively new tires, we want to replace them with 31"s.

So basically we figure we need a lift kid, rock rails, and some skid plates. Here is what we've come up with for a list with Mike's help:

JKS SuperNerf Rock Rails
JKS HD X-Member (includes transfer case skid plate)
JKS Quicker Disconnects
Skid Row gas tank skid plate
Rough Country 3" Suspension Lift Kit with Nitro 9000 shocks and replacement rear leaf springs

A few things we're trying to determine - on the JKS web site there's a note with the HD X-Member that states:
"Some 2000-01 models may require rear engine mount assembly from 1999 and earlier models."
How can we tell in advance if this will be needed?

With the lift kit they have an option for a steering stabilizer. Is this something we should order?

Finally, it was suggested that we might need a slip yoke conversion and rear drive shaft with the lift kit. Anyone else with 3" lifts find this necessary?

Other thoughts and suggestions?

Any recommendations on the best places to buy these parts?

Also hi to Robert, whom we met after we last had the Jeeps worked on and Mike took us over to his place to have a look at his Cherokee. Sorry we didn't make the M&G that week, or Big Bear, but I promise we'll show up once my Jeep is fit for adventuring. :)

Check the for sale forums..... OFTEN !!!
I agree with the "learn how to drive it" thought but, that's substancially lessend when a locker is in the mix........ it sounds like you've got a plan so stick to it and build in phases....
Smart mods. aren't always easy to see, but a well thought one will enhance your rig and offer more then just a quick visual one....
Aren't there any O.E gas skids out there anymore ? They're usually much cheaper the an aftermarket one.... it's all what YOU like and how much time & $$$$ YOU want to put into it....
Keep asking these goofballs Q.s and their thoughts and you'll get the best of all that's out there..... everyone has something to offer....
Enjoy your XJ....

Curt
 
Captain Ron said:
Keep the stock x-member, get A Skid Row T-case skid or similar.

Honest Ron I'm not picking on you. :) No on the Skid Row or other skid. I am tired of having to straighten Andy's out when it bends up and then the t-case vibrates on it as the engine is running. Sorry but the JKS/Currie one is just the best option.
 
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Rock rails can be a matter of preferance but one should not overlook one of the most important things about them, the mounting. It above all else is most important. It should attach at the frame rails and along the pinch seam on a secure and as strong a way as possible for a uni-body. This will carry the load and minimize damage. Next should be coverage for your use. Personally I think the ones that stick out provide the best protection as well as being able to use them as a step. From there design is by choice.
 
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MJR said:
Just looked at this.

http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/Rockrails/Images/superrail22.jpg

Now it's nice and all that he is using my picture but don't you think it should be copyrighted gotgroceries and not ajsarmor?

http://www.gotgroceries.net/MoabDay4Wed10505/photos/photo82.html


DPG's gas tank skid looks decent. Not sure which others are out there but frame rail mounting (ask Andy Steiner) is the ONLY option for a XJ gas tank skid.

You know Mike you take so many great pics in some of the best places so Im not surprised someone barrowed your Pic.
 
We've ordered the parts for Lilian's Jeep:We will also get the slip yoke conversion and rear drive shaft replacement as well. I've also picked up a new stereo for it (Pioneer DEH-P77DH), so if anyone is interested in a factory 2001 AM/FM cassette player let me know! Free of course. I hate having to just throw it out.
 
Panther said:
if anyone is interested in a factory 2001 AM/FM cassette player let me know! Free of course. I hate having to just throw it out.
sounds like you're off to a good start! let us know how it goes.
as for the radio, put it in the karma thrread, more people will see it there :D
 
Speaking of radios..... you might start looking for a CB..... a small one, space is limited.

Curt
 
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