clutch replacement options?what are you using???

I need to replace my clutch and want to get a better one-NOT LUK or OEM!!!! I was wondering what you are using for a clutch besides stock-LUK-or Center Force.I have been checking out SPEC clutches on line and like there options.Anyone use one of these---->www.specclutch.com look up jeep products,I am intending to use my jeep for DD and use in the Uwharrie forest/Tellico areas so mixed use is involved.I know it will be "slipping" for rock crawling anybody have any ideas??? Stock clutch won't do............

Centerforce

Why won't the stock clutch do? They don't slip? I frequently see OEM clutches go 200+ thousand miles on heavily wheeled rigs. Whats insufficiant about it?

I've herd bad stuff bout center force and how the dual friction is-look at spec clutch stage 2 and click on the info link to see the products.Plus for the money i would rather get the stage 2 version spec clutch offers the price on th web is to hi you can get them at ---link to better web for prices------->http://www.lmperformance.com/numsearch.asp?Action=Search&search=Jeep "Cherokee,Grand+Cherokee". Plus how is the centerforce holding up???

my stock clutch has 140K on it. runninig fine, no slip. I was answering the subject question. Swapped a centerforce in a wrangler. It ran great for 10K then the motor went. Its sitting in the pile o junk waiting for my OEM to go out.

Cal , I have had a LUK clutch in my jeep and when I was wheeling it you can smell the friction burning like sticking brakes.I have learned how to drive on a stick 22 years ago-had mine fer 7 years now- the luk I put in it when i changed the puke joe trans to an NV 3550 has only lasted 70,000 miles on 33x12.50 tires with 4.10 gears I do not ride my clutch I only get back on the gas pedal after i have fully let the clutch pedal go.It is now slipping when i shift it at higher mph like getting on the freeway.doesnt slip other wise..................if i baby it its fine -- new slave cylinder new clutch master-- 4 months ago- NOT afected by these items.

No clutch will hold up if it is supplied with a sufficient amount of abuse.:doh:

What I want to know is has people out there using clutches and the type of driving I/We do have burned clutches due to the that style of wheeling or is the stock clutch really ok for wheeling??? Hell I figure if u-joints are snapping as well as axles , and why they get u graded becuase of the stress they see, why would'nt the clutch see that same stress as well?If the other drive train parts cant handle it why should the stock clutch clamping force and friction material being used CAN??? Does not make sence.........

OF couse MUDDAWG thats what i am refuring to........ so why do people insist on the stock clutch??????

markaboo929 said:

Cal , I have had a LUK clutch in my jeep and when I was wheeling it you can smell the friction burning like sticking brakes.I have learned how to drive on a stick 22 years ago-had mine fer 7 years now- the luk I put in it when i changed the puke joe trans to an NV 3550 has only lasted 70,000 miles on 33x12.50 tires with 4.10 gears I do not ride my clutch I only get back on the gas pedal after i have fully let the clutch pedal go.It is now slipping when i shift it at higher mph like getting on the freeway.doesnt slip other wise..................if i baby it its fine -- new slave cylinder new clutch master-- 4 months ago- NOT afected by these items.

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Did you surface the flywheel when you put the clutch in?

I run slushboxes in all my Heeps...so no direct input...but I will advise you to NEVER buy a "remanufactured" clutch...

www.southbendclutch.com they are not cheap but can custom make per application I would for sure give them a call. A friend of mine bought a clutch from them for his 02 Cummins Dually that put down 580hp and 1200ft lbs of torque. Awsome customer service, they took care of him when he upped the power no problem.

Cal I did not resurface the flywheel by having it turned on a flywheel machine,otherwise you end up DECREASING the distance from the stock set up.Is that where you we're headed??? I only used 120 grit sand paper on a palm sander to get the surface deglazed.No hi spots or stress cracks.... maybe bad built clutch...hmm...........but still the mileage ....

I've only ever ran stock clutches, and I've had no reason to change. First one went 120k miles and still worked when I took it out, but I was putting a rebuilt trans in and figured I'd change it while it was apart. Same story 50,000 miles later when I changed from the AX15 to the NV4500, because I had to change the pilot bushing anyway. All have seen a wide range of highway, commuting, rock crawling, and wet/muddy wheeling.

markaboo929 said:

I figure if u-joints are snapping as well as axles , and why they get u graded becuase of the stress they see, why would'nt the clutch see that same stress as well?If the other drive train parts cant handle it why should the stock clutch clamping force and friction material being used CAN???

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Because unless you've upgraded the motor, the clutch only ever experiences the same torque as it came with from the factory. Meanwhile my axle u-joints get over 180x the amount of torque, vs. 37x in a factory setup.

To understand my previous post....there are three distinctly different types of clutch kit...the cheapest (and not usually a LOT cheaper) are "remanufatured"...in this case, worn out OEM clutches are "rebuilt"...the quality goes along with the price....low quality, and not as durable as a new OEM.......the next is OEM.....new assemblies, generally very good quality and durable, but designed for long term use in STOCK vehicles, more expensive than the "remanufactured" but light years better quality.....next is aftermarket....this is where it gets tricky....you must get the appropriate clutch for the application....generally speaking racing clutches belong in racing applications for several different reasons....you need a heavy duty street clutch (most likely)....and finally....the flywheel needs to be refinished on a blanchard grinder when a new clutch is installed....the flywheel surface is 25% of the total friction surface....if it isn't refinished, the new clutch will suffer....I said I couldn't recommend a JEEP clutch....because I have never needed one.....but if I had a dollar for every clutch I have changed over the years in every other kind of vehicle, I could go on a lenghtly vacation.

The best clutch I ever had was a Zoom clutch. Lighter pedal effort than a centerforce and never slipped. This was on a Mustang that saw plenty of drag strip and street racing duty.

I always ran Hays clutches in my cars....they were very good...it took one helluva clutch to launch a car with big block power....but that was years ago, so I wont speak for them now since it's been so long....BUT GOOD LUCK!!

I was cosidering resurfacing the flywheel but I am worried about the loss of material being removed-although I have a different trans than original puke joe with the internal slave cylinder-mine is now external due to it being a NV3550....I probably would be fine with an aftermarket good clutch like zoom,centerforce,spec...or what ever else-It's just that I have a TNT long arm setup and I do not like to do things over because of "live-and-learn" crap happinin.....I just wanted to know how the rest of the "manual trans crew" has been holding up with other clutches....before I replace mine.I have searched but,to no alass no real world answer due to opinions,set ups,style of driving.....I believe I tryed to state what my intentions are and my style of driving habits,to compare with simular results.I did think that if i ran into issues with material loss on resurfacing it can be made up slightly by modifying the slave cylinder push rod,the NV3550 I got was from Advanced Adapters as a pukejoe replacement and there rod was a 3/8 fine thread rod cut to length , that souldnt be a prob though,cause they know what there doing.Plus remember the clutch never did lose hold at any time-since the trans was put in.I believe it would have been present imediately following installation............Just need input.......:smoker:

MudDawg said:

and finally....the flywheel needs to be refinished on a blanchard grinder when a new clutch is installed....the flywheel surface is 25% of the total friction surface....if it isn't refinished, the new clutch will suffer

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Yeah, it'll suffer...you won't be able to release it.

Stock flywheels can take about one resurfacing operation, maybe two depending on how bad it was. I've done mine once with no problems. The slave cylinder is non-adjustable so anything more than that, and the pressure plate starts to sit too far from the throwout bearing, and you won't get complete disengagement.

Resurfacing the flywheel should have no effect on clutch arm travel as the mounting surface for the pressure plate is also machined. They will only take off a few thousandths so it should have a negligible effect on the clutch if any.