Depending on how badly rusted everything is, be prepared also to replace some hard brake lines. Even if they're good enough to get you past inspection, you might want to be your own inspector on this important safety issue. If the lines don't look too bad, make sure that you use only the best quality flare-nut wrenches on any of the flare nuts that have not already been garped up by bad wrenches. Forget the chain store stuff, even Craftsman, for this. The wrench must be a perfectly tight fit and have no flex in it at all. The fittings are SAE, and a 3/8 - 7/16 flare nut wrench of the right type, such as Snap On or K-D, though it may cost close to 15 bucks, will save you many hours of frustration and probably a few bucks in new hard lines. Otherwise, be ready with vise grips if the flares are already bad. As soon as you feel a flare crack loose from its threads, check very carefully to ensure that it is not also rusted solid to the tubing, and twisting it. You can often get it to free up with a lot of short, back and forth wiggling and lots of rust busting fluids. But once it twists, you'll need new tubing, so take your time. You'll also have to work very carefully to get rusted bleeders open after the hose work. I recently saw at an auto parts store kits to replace a sheared bleeder with a two-piece fitting using a pipe thread in the caliper. You might want to keep that in mind if you find yourself shearing a caliper fitting. Not worth the time on a rear wheel cylinder since a whole new cylinder is only about 12 bucks anyway.
