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Dana 30 Comparison Help

javik

NAXJA Forum User
Location
OH
I have searched and read just about everything by Crash and others but i have some questions for a guy like me who has the dana 30, wants to upgrade, but is not a pro fabricator or even a descent welder.

Right now i have the d30 disco with 4.56 and im running 35s. I have a lockright and i occasionally break a shaft, still on stock shafts, i know well get to that later. I guess all questions pertaining to uprgrades are centered around money, and i probablly give these things to much thought.

Anyway i want more strength, but i keep hearing that putting money into the turdy is a mistake, but i dont have the ability or time to turn a full width ford front hp 44 into a masterpiece like some of you.

My goal is more strenth for possible up to 37s, High Pinion, Without extreme fabrication, without having to sell a kidney on ebay to pay for it. My Access to good welders is limited and costly. I would also like it to beable to put an OX in it because i have had too many problems with my arb in my other jeep.

I would love bolt on, but i dont want the LP 44 from a rubi, for many reasons we all know

I am considering, for the price mind you

Building up the 30, With a Tnt truss(i think i can find a welder to do it because it seems pretty simple) and putting in the alloy shafts 27 spline, that way i can always pop in factory non discos for spares if need be. And to maybee help throw in an OX.

COST apx 2000$
about truss(250$) Weld labor(200$?) Alloy shaft(500$) Ox(800$) R&P labor(200$) I would love locking hubs but 3gs into a turdy is rediculous.

I looked at buying a front, but it seems that an HP dana 44 is not offered by Currie and others, Or atleast i cant find one.

To get a housing and have all the fab work done on a 44 would probably break the bank, because i would still have to buy alloy shafts, OX a more expensive truss, R&P labor, plus R&P and install cost, Plus initial housing cost, Plus having the Tubes shortened which i dont feel comfortable having some woodchuck welder doing. Plus im sure the housing that i will end up getting will have crappy breaks that will need replacing. Plus with the 44 i probably wont be able to stay 5 on 4.5 for bolt pattern, so that means re doing my rear And i Just fininshed my 8.8 and i dont want to replace that too. Im sure you guys are getting the picture.

I know its an expensive sport so please dont flame me im just looking for ideas to save that hard earned coin and upgrade once and do it right. Is there another option im missing? Sell my 30 and 8.8 and do it all over? Will my d30 plan work pretty good or am just setting my self up for a big maintance and repair bill. Invest in 60s? I did not want to go full with but i dont want to put 3-4gs into a 44 either.

SOmeone needs to start a HP narrowed housing buisness, i bet there are alot of guys like me that would love it.

Anyway, forgive the ramblings, any suggestion would be greatly apreciated.
 
My dana 30.

I started by removing the bracketry and inner C's, taking to bare tube.
Sleeved the housing in 3x.250" DOM tube, put the inner C's on rotated for caster and pinion angle. Trussed that, and have 3/16" or 1/4" bracketry everywhere with RE joints for the uppers.

09-20-06_1840.jpg


CID__10-08-06_1713.jpg



30 spline ARB with Precision 4.88 gears, 30 spline Alloy USA inners, 30 spline stubs with timken 30 spline unit bearings and CTM joints. Crane diff cover to stiffen it up more and help prevent pinion deflection, Alloy USA tube seals, WJ knuckles for better steering and brakes, u-bolt (instead of strap) yoke, spicer balljoints, bracketry raised for clearance, mounts for bilstien 7100 shocks.. I have a 30 spline hub kit sitting on the shelf so I can go 5x5.5 later this summer.

steering.jpg


I got some really good deals on parts, but probably still spent close to 3k out the door. Some people would call me a fool, but I started out to see how far I could take the dana 30, not to build for big tires.

Would I run 37's on it? HELL NO. The ring gear would never hold up.

Find yourself an f150 hp44 to start with, or stick to 35's.
 
javik said:
Right now i have the d30 disco with 4.56 and im running 35s.

260 joints. 35's. locker. you're doing it to yourself..

Slap a $500 set of Alloy USA shafts with some spicer 760's in and stick to 35's.. and you won't have a problem.
 
When you say your braking a shaft, are you braking it at the U-joint, and are your U-joints welded in? I was breking shafts left and right until a friend of mine (KarlVP) welded my U-joints in for me. I havn't broken one since. if you have not done it yet you might look into it, would be a heck of a lot cheaper then a new axle, and a Dana 44 has the same size U-joints anyways.

As a side note Bobby Long of Longfield super axles is working on a Dana 30 CV joing simular to the ones they make for the Dana 60. You'd probably start going through R&P long before you started braking those. There not not out yet though.
 
Alloy usa makes a 5x760 replacement superjoint, that is stronger than a 760 but a little weaker than a CTM. I remember them being pretty affordable and coming with full circle clips..
 
I just finished a hp dana 44. It wasn't cheap, over $3k. But that includes ARB, alloys, super-ujoints, warn premium hubs, RE brackets, flat tops, and high steer. Every bearing and seal is new. I can't weld much either.

I would recommend building a $3k d44 rather than dumping 2k+ into a D30.

Or, just install alloy shafts and ujoints in you D30 and stay with 35's.

BTW, I got quotes from 3 axle builders and the cheapest quote was $4350. That included an ARB but it did not include alloy shafts and ujoints. Now I'm building a D60 rear.
Here is my build thread, in case you're interested.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
 
in four wheeler magazine this month there was an ad for 4wheelparts.com that had complete Dana 44 with ox lockers for 2599.99. They were for TJ's but I bet that could be easily fixed. All new parts.

Matt
 
FiFo said:
As a side note Bobby Long of Longfield super axles is working on a Dana 30 CV joing simular to the ones they make for the Dana 60. You'd probably start going through R&P long before you started braking those.

The same is true of 30 spline shafts and any superjoint - CTM, OX, X-Joints, etc..

Are the longfield d30 shafts going to remain 27 spline or be 30 spline? I don't see the point in paying his prices to stay on a 27 spline shaft - when you can buy a set of CTM's and have the same strength..
 
Killionaire said:
in four wheeler magazine this month there was an ad for 4wheelparts.com that had complete Dana 44 with ox lockers for 2599.99. They were for TJ's but I bet that could be easily fixed. All new parts.

Matt

That's interesting, I was looking at their web site and the only D44 I could find was a rear for $2k and it wasn't anywhere near complete.

No outers, brakes etc. Just locker, gears and shafts.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/jeep-parts-details.aspx?pid=4WDDA44-TJ97-L488
 
Sierra Drifter said:
I just finished a hp dana 44. It wasn't cheap, over $3k. But that includes ARB, alloys, super-ujoints, warn premium hubs, RE brackets, flat tops, and high steer. Every bearing and seal is new. I can't weld much either.

I would recommend building a $3k d44 rather than dumping 2k+ into a D30.

Or, just install alloy shafts and ujoints in you D30 and stay with 35's.

BTW, I got quotes from 3 axle builders and the cheapest quote was $4350. That included an ARB but it did not include alloy shafts and ujoints. Now I'm building a D60 rear.
Here is my build thread, in case you're interested.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243


Great write up. Im just not sure i want to go full width just yet. How wide is yours and what wheel backspacing did you go with?

I should probably take some welding classes or something, because it seems that i cant afford any of these without welding. maybee ill try buying someones shortened housing.

Does anybody know if you can run 5 on 4.5 on an hp 44?
 
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