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Junkyard find question about WJ brakes

J

JTwthaXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Raleigh, NC
One of my friends found a totaled WJ (2000) at a local junk yard, I know that I want all the front steering pieces (knuckles, tie rod, draglink, and possibly the calipers), but my main question is will the rear brake setup work on my '97 (backing plates, calipers)? I know a lot of guys use the parts from the '96-'98, but will the 2000 work? I know I will need to figure out the e-brake setup and I would need different rotors.

Thanks,

JT
 
Okay, I got there and realized that it was a 2001 WJ with a dana 30 in the front and a dana 35 in the rear. It has the teves calipers, so I decided to strip all brake parts from the wheels I have everything that I need except for the right front knuckle, the nut spins the stud in the balljoint, any ideas? I beat/banged/sawed until me and the two 18v sawzall batteries that I had were dead. I have a '97 XJ with the dana 30 in the front and an Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. I figure even using the teves calipers that it would be worth the swap for a little while until I found the akebono calipers then I would only have to change the calipers, pads,and the rotors. I also got the tie rod and the drag link, these things are HUGE, I like it :) I know the mods that I will have to do to make the front brakes work, but what about the rears? I really want rear discs and I already have the majority of the parts (calipers, mounting brackets, and backing plates). I know most folks use the zj dana 35 stuff on their 8.25, but what about the wj? I have looked all the parts up they are different, but still very similiar... Please tell me how to make this work

Thanks folks
 
JTwthaXJ said:
the nut spins the stud in the balljoint, any ideas? I beat/banged/sawed until me and the two 18v sawzall batteries that I had were dead.
Click to expand...

Try Soaking that bugger in PBBlaster, then hammer a pickle fork in there and lever on it as you remove the nut.

Now if you had a torch....(most yards won't allow them).
 
aren't WJ's 5X5? Something to consider there.....

Also, grab the LCA's if they're not trashed. They're fully boxed, and the centers are offset (which helps prevent tire rub on full-turn, for cheep).

Jeff

WJ LCA's I got out of my local yard, waiting to go on my MJ:

LCA_1.jpg
 
Thats what I plan on trying when I go back, the pickle fork was the only tool that I own that I didn't take with me that day. Yeah the WJ lug pattern is 5x5 but I will have to have a new lug pattern drilled into the front set of rotors, so getting the rear done shouldn't be much or any more expensive. I am more worried that the retainer plate on my axle won't match the mounting bracket for the WJs, and if everything will be spaced right. Guess I will find out soon enough. Yeah I saw the control arms, but they were trashed, this thing looked like it had gone end over end a few times, and then come to a sreeeeching halt on the roof. So we'll see on my next adventure to the yard...

Thanks

JT
 
JTwthaXJ said:
Okay, I got there and realized that it was a 2001 WJ with a dana 30 in the front and a dana 35 in the rear. It has the teves calipers, so I decided to strip all brake parts from the wheels I have everything that I need except for the right front knuckle, the nut spins the stud in the balljoint, any ideas? I beat/banged/sawed until me and the two 18v sawzall batteries that I had were dead. I have a '97 XJ with the dana 30 in the front and an Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. I figure even using the teves calipers that it would be worth the swap for a little while until I found the akebono calipers then I would only have to change the calipers, pads,and the rotors. I also got the tie rod and the drag link, these things are HUGE, I like it :) I know the mods that I will have to do to make the front brakes work, but what about the rears? I really want rear discs and I already have the majority of the parts (calipers, mounting brackets, and backing plates). I know most folks use the zj dana 35 stuff on their 8.25, but what about the wj? I have looked all the parts up they are different, but still very similiar... Please tell me how to make this work

Thanks folks
Click to expand...


www.car-part.com

I got my WJ knuckles for $70 SHIPPED, for the pair. If you can't get that one off in the yard, order one from them. Also get the caliper brackets, calipers and rotors.

Don't bother with the steering, it won't work for you - its the wrong length. You *could* grab the tie rod ends to save $75 on new ones, but do you really want to run used tie rod ends?
 
Is there a difference between the WJ knuckles? Like the earlier WJ used the teves calipers and the later ones used akebono calipers, will they both bolt to the same knuckle? Thanks for the link, but hopefully I can get that one off, I only paid like 53 bucks for 4 capliers and the mounting brackets/knuckles, and the steering stuff.
 
The knuckles are exactly the same from 99-04, 2wd and 4wd.
 
Thanks, that was what I was thinking I just wanted a little reassurance. Any ideas about if the rear brake setup will work with my Chrysler 8.25?
 
I've wondered the same thing, but never grabbed a set of backing plates to play with it.
 
Does anyone have any specs on the backing plates and the retainers for the Chrysler 8.25 and the WJ Dana 35? If so that would be awesome. Will I have to take the retainers from the WJ to make this work?

JT
 
Okay, so I finally got back out to the yard yesterday. After beating and banging some more, I was about ready to give up I set my hand on the top of the knuckle that wouldn't budge and it just fell off...... :) So I got both knuckles now, I measured the backing plate/mounting brackets from the rear of the WJ and then from my XJ, this isn't gonna work without some decent amount of fab work. Do you guys have any suggestions? Beginning to think to post the calipers and backing plates/mounting brackets up in the for sale forum.....anybody want to trade for ZJ parts if I can't make these work?
 
If you make me the right offer on the rear WJ stuff, I might be interested. I am not afraid to make my own caliper brackets instead of using the backing plates, and that opens a world of options.
 
Technically, I think .230 is more accurate.

That .020 doesnt seem to make much difference though.
 
Because that difference is so small I think that the caliper would adjust to either, I personally am planning on using the WJ hub (because it will be spaced right and its cheaper) I will have to have the lug pattern machined into it, along with the rotors.
 
JTwthaXJ said:
Because that difference is so small I think that the caliper would adjust to either, I personally am planning on using the WJ hub (because it will be spaced right and its cheaper) I will have to have the lug pattern machined into it, along with the rotors.
Click to expand...

ITs not a caliper thing at all, the spacing is to put the unit bearing and u-joint where it needs to be.

The WJ hub is *not* the right spacing. When you get everything torqued down it will not center the u-joint in the balljoints. The WJ stub is a different length. You can't run the WJ outer because its a CV, and the WJ inner is the wrong length for an XJ d30.
 
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