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How to spread new brake pads????

oo7ravisXJ

oo7ravisXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Ramon, Nor-Cal
I'm putting new brake pads on my jeep, how do u spread the new installed pads apart to fit around the rotor?
 
Before you dismount the rotor (with the old pads in,) you take a large C-clamp and use that to press the piston back into the bore. You'll push on the exposed area of the outboard pad with the screw ram, and hook the fixed jaw over the backside of the caliper.

If you've already dismounted the caliper, you can install the old inboard pad and do much the same thing with the caliper off the vehicle. Work slowly, and watch for brake fluid coming out of your master cylinder (it does eat paint rather well...) Be sure to check fluid level when you're done, and top off as required.

For future reference, it's generally easier to "bottom out" the piston with the caliper still mounted - since you don't have to wrestle with the caliper to get it to stay bloody put!
 
I usually insert a screw driver or smaller pry bar between the caliper and rotor, then get inbetween the rotor and brake pad, and pry enough until the piston compresses. Once its loose enough and the pads are out, I use a piston compressor, or put the pad that goes on the piston side, and compress using a C clamp.
 
Thanks guys, guess i made this job harder then it had to be
 
I've always found that it's easier (but messier) to open the bleeder valve on whichever brake I'm working on. Then I can *usually* compress the piston with a large pair of channel-locks. Just 1 too many parking-lot repairs, I guess....
 
If you open the bleeder screw, I've actually been able to place the old pad over the piston and squeeze both end of the pad against the caliper and actually retract the piston by hand.

I worry about getting air into the system opening the bleeder valve. If you get the speed bleeders, that is NO longer a worry.

The C-Clamp is worth having around, there are many other uses for it, so I would get one big enough if you don't have it already.

The other advantage to opening the bleeder screw, the fluid displaced by pushing in the piston is NOT back-flowed thru the system and forcing dirt and contamination up into the other parts, like the master cylinder. Honestly, I've never had a problem pushing the fluid back up into the master cylinder, but the point is valid, a weak master cylinder with seals about to go and really dirty/contaminated fluid, I could see it happening.
 
Rick Anderson said:
The other advantage to opening the bleeder screw, the fluid displaced by pushing in the piston is NOT back-flowed thru the system and forcing dirt and contamination up into the other parts, like the master cylinder. Honestly, I've never had a problem pushing the fluid back up into the master cylinder, but the point is valid, a weak master cylinder with seals about to go and really dirty/contaminated fluid, I could see it happening.
Click to expand...


x10 ALWAYS open the bleeder. chances are the fluid that comes out with be brown with dirt. its good to flush that out and get new fluid into the caliper, dirty fluid makes piston seals wear out quicker. speed bleeders make it a win win situation, but bleeding the brakes normally is no big deal either.
 
The reason is to always open bleeder is a very valid one. I have seen many an ABS controller get ruined by backyard mechannics trying to do their own brake jobs. Dirt, rust & moisture are your enemy. Now you my not have ABS, but if can plug up a controller, just think whats going into master cylinder.
 
I go with the C clamp as well. I first remove as much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir with a turkey baster (don't put it back in her drawer, buy her a new one). I prefer brake bleeding/flushing to be a seperate operation but, it's up to the individual:shhh:
 
there actually is a tool that auto shops use it spreads them its a plate on one end with a bolt and a post on the other end that you just turn with a handle like a screw driver. I actually saw it the other day it was quite intresting and very simple, the guy told me you can get them at any auto store for like $10. And its way easier than the c clamp. I got blasted raped for 100$ for my pads that i had to get changed because I dont have a lift or my tools down with me in philly :'( POS!
 
silent_bob_662001 said:
The reason is to always open bleeder is a very valid one. I have seen many an ABS controller get ruined by backyard mechannics trying to do their own brake jobs.
Click to expand...
I'd have to agree, if you have ABS, then definitely open the bleeder and DO NOT force fluid backwards into the system. Most ABS Modules are $1000, well worth the extra effort to protect that thing.

Someone mentioned using a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservour. I've done this as well, although the most effective is to remove the brake reservour completly and flush it out, if its the plastic snap on type. That always runs the risk of breaking the reservour, its snapped in rather tight.

Before sticking anything, like a turkey baster, into the brake reservour, clean it thoroughly with brake cleaner. One drop of petroleum oil (PS Fluid, Motor Oil) can destroy all the seals on the brake system and ruin your brakes. Most people have a turkey baster in their tool box that they've used for all sorts of jobs, they likely still have some Petroleum Oil laying around inside them, that could contaminate the brake fluid.
 
Did a quick scan, not sure if anyone mentioned this.. but when you use the C-clamp to compress the piston... Do it with the old pads on.. Ive seen people install new pads, then use a c-clamp and chew the bejesus out of the pads with the teeth...
 
Rick Anderson said:
I'd have to agree, if you have ABS, then definitely open the bleeder and DO NOT force fluid backwards into the system. Most ABS Modules are $1000, well worth the extra effort to protect that thing.

Someone mentioned using a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservour. I've done this as well, although the most effective is to remove the brake reservour completly and flush it out, if its the plastic snap on type. That always runs the risk of breaking the reservour, its snapped in rather tight............
Click to expand...
This may very well be true for the CD vehicles but, it is recommended through GM Techline for theirs. I am a newby here and acknowledge the fact. My '92 Limited's abs was gone before I purchase it from the previous owner. It already had an installation of the 8.25" done. Thanks for correcting me.
 
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