Flex VS. Height

I'm beginning to believe that better flexamobilty is more important than more height.

I'm doing a D44 build for the rear complete with a Detroit, and in my thoughts and considerations of the wheeling we do in the Midwest, it seems that the extra stresses 35's" put on the system isn't worth the extra INCH of clearance gained.

The 33's will stuff better into the wells and I would lose range of flex with the 35's. Tell me if I'm wrong but I would think that the better the RTI ramp score, the better your wheeling performance and ability? I'm thinking "Bigger is not always Better"

Let the arguments begin....:compwork:

Rocketman said:

Tell me if I'm wrong but I would think that the better the RTI ramp score, the better your wheeling performance and ability?

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LMAO :gag:

I'm thinking "Bigger is not always Better"

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now that I definately will agree with

I can stuff my 35's as far into the fenders as I could stuff my 32's (took some trimming). After bumpstopping added longer shocks, now i have 35's and more flex.

I would say exactly the opposite, as long as you have some sort of traction-aiding device.

Look at any comp rig, or even most "bigger" rigs that are well-designed - you're only going to see a few inches of uptravel at each corner. It's not uncommon to see bumpstops at 1-3" above the axle. The flip side to this is you'll usually see a lot of downtravel - 10-12" isn't unusual. Ground clearance and a low center of gravity are typically the two most important considerations that are made.

RTI ramps are great for exactly two things, IMO: impressing people in parking lots, and for checking clearance and bumpstop issues. Beyond that a ramp score gives VERY little indication of how well a rig will perform on a trail.

I'm not saying that articulation isn't needed - obviously your rig has to conform to the terrain to some extent - but it's not the holy grail of rig building that many make it out to be, either.

Run 35's and cut more sheetmetal if you're not happy with the uptravel.

OK... I can go with that argument. Uptravel VS. Downtravel. I still contend the extra inch of clearance does not outweigh the stresses of 35's over 33's on the steering, axles etc.

OK Randy.. you can stop laughing now. I meant the rigs ability to negotiate obstacles, not the driver!! :moon:

Rocketman said:

I still contend the extra inch of clearance does not outweigh the stresses of 35's over 33's on the steering, axles etc.

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Well, I was bending all the stock steering stuff on 33's nearly every trip out. Very few stock parts on an XJ are much good for 33's or larger. If you want the benefits of larger tires, you have to just include the upgraded hardware as part of the entire package.

Already have most of that. Only thing I'm missing is a YJ(?) 4 bolt steering box. Already have upgraded axles/joints, tie rod and ends, good steering dampener, and reinforced unibody panels from my JCR bumper. A truss on the turdy and Poison Spider reinforcement on the crossover link is all I'd need from a build-up perspective.

IDEALLY, (dream time here) I'm looking at TNT's long arms. That should give me all the downtravel I'd need regardless of the tire size.

Down travel is "extremely" overated,once you unload the coils your not carrying any weight for traction!

its all over rated...put some lockers in it and who cares if youve got 1 tire on the ground or all 4..more then likely youll still be moving

im gonna say 35's are great but 33's can go alot of places 35's can if your a good driver.

Want to REALLY piss people off? Build it with 31s and take the time to learn how to drive it like that. With lockers and skids, you can usually find a line that will allow you to keep up with the "big dogs" and it sure pisses people off(for some reason!)

RCP Phx said:

Down travel is "extremely" overated,once you unload the coils your not carrying any weight for traction!

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That's not true.

As long as the tire is touching the ground, you've at least got the weight of the tire + some axle there. Add to that the cantilever from the opposite tire pivoting on the bumpstop and you've still got some potential for help. This is assuming that tire is still resting on the ground, not floating.

Also, if you do have free downtravel (not with the tire picked up), you're not hanging that weight off the corner of your rig, which takes traction away from the wheels that are still weighted. Also keeps it more stable as (in my case) you don't have 400+ lbs hanging in the air away from where you want to be planted.

Here's mine at full droop...coil is about 2" unseated and the shock has a little left to go.



Compared to ride height.



I wouldn't call that excessive by any means. The rear drops out even sooner just because I had to use short lil coils there...but there's a ton of free travel before that wheel actually becomes "unweighted".

vetteboy said:

Well, I was bending all the stock steering stuff on 33's nearly every trip out. Very few stock parts on an XJ are much good for 33's or larger. If you want the benefits of larger tires, you have to just include the upgraded hardware as part of the entire package.

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I run 33's with all stock components but the steering stabilizer and I have never broken a thing and I abuse it a good bit. I run 33's with 4.5" of lift and I like it, my uptravel is not great but the down travel is not bad. I think downtravel is nice but for all the downtravel in the world nothing can beat a locker. I say go with the less lift and run the 33's or even 34's if you feel like it. I ran 4.5" of lift on 29" tires and it felt like to much lift for the small tires. The larger the lift compared to tire size contributes to how much your but will pucker when your on an off camber section of the trail.

I've always wondered this too. The question isn't "Can I fit XXs," the question is "Should I fit XXs?"

Like mentioned I'd rather run RE 3.5" trim and bumstop on 33s than RE 5.5" and 33s.

I will agree 100% on the 33s vs 35s really isn't worth it. Too many teenagers still in the "look at me" phase and think they got to have 35s on stock driveline. I am starting to actually wheel pretty well and I just rather have the piece of mind on 33s than 35s. I'm on 25s right now and they ride smoother than my old 33s, but I ma just gonna get new 33s soon.

Plus I am swapping in a np231 over my 242 to gain another 1" of clearance so that with 33s will keep me happy....for awhile.

vetteboy said:

Well, I was bending all the stock steering stuff on 33's nearly every trip out. Very few stock parts on an XJ are much good for 33's or larger. If you want the benefits of larger tires, you have to just include the upgraded hardware as part of the entire package.

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exactly and hwen you just spent $$$ on 4.56s/lockers, etc its just better to stick to the smaller tire and enjoy your Jeep. Of course if someone is made of $$....