stage 1 build done

Here are some pics of my XJ. This is kind of a before and after timeline of the last 2 years of saveing and stock pileing parts. This is also a thank your to the members of Naxja for the help and teck advise that I was able to get here. Now its time to order my membership and get my sticker. Thanks to everyone, Tim

Here she is before the make over with little mods like a Hurst shifter, blacked out stock rims,Flowmaster catback,K&N filter and Rustys air tube, new cap and roter and plugs.


Then came the RE6130


After installing the kit, sye,rims,tires, new rear DS









93 Cherokee 5 spd 3.07's
Dana 30 front
C 8 1/4 rear
Hurst short throw shifter
K&N filter
Rustys air tube
Flowmaster cat back
Crager D window rims 15x8 4.5" bs
PORC sye
rear DS is from a 92 auto (retubed)
BFG 31X10.5

Hey, you are running the exact tire/wheel combo I'm planning to run. What did they cost you?

Nice job!

looks really good
like he said how much
and hows the ride?

Very nice.

Rev

ratherbcamping said:

Hey, you are running the exact tire/wheel combo I'm planning to run. What did they cost you?

Nice job!

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I got the tires from NTB and they were 599.95 out the door.
I got the rims from Jeggs and they were like 165.00 shipped to my door.
I later went back to NTB and had them mount and put on road hazzard for like another 120.00

total came out to like 880.00 give or take a few bucks.

The trick to NTB is bring in a lower price off the net, and get them to match and or beat it. The cheapest place online that I have found is tiresaveings.com and tirerack.com . Look hard and you can find a good deal online then just print it out and go to NTB or the likes. Dont let them get you with some BS about how you would have to ship them or whatever, because one NTB tryed to get me for an extra 15 bucks a tire since it was from an online competitor. So I just went to a diffrent store and I had no problems at all.

RUSTYSXJ
Compaired to the 14yr old leafs and coils its friggin great. Its a little hard over some bigger bumps but all in all its not bad. Just make sure you grease the shackles before install, it might be hard to get in there with a grease gun once everything is tightened down. I made that mistake, so I had to loosen the 2 shackle bolts on one side then jack up the oppisit side so the shackle would swing out. Then tight and repeat on the other side.

P.S. thanks Rev, Im still woulking out some stuff tho. (pinion angles.shims(or none), TC drop or not. basicly the right combo for vibe free. I started with no TC drop and 2 degree shims, with a litlle vibe and a strange ticking or nocking sound when coasting in gear and then when comening to a stop out of gear. Then I swaped out the 2s for a set of 4 degree shims, it got worse. So then I tried pulling the front DS to make sure it wasnt a u-joint or some front end noise. It only got louder when I went for a drive. Next I put the front DS back on and took off the rear with the 4 degree shims and went for a drive.....no noise at all!!!! what gives? My plan for tomorrow is to put the rear DS back in and try it out with no shims and pray for good things. If that dosent work maybe my problem is in the sye, or maybe I need a TC drop. what do you think?

looking good , i have the same RE6130 kit and wound up with no transfer case drop / 4* shims . this netted zero vibrations until about 110 mph , lol .

this may sound like a silly question , but do you have the shims in correctly ?
you want the rear pinion pointing just slightly below the centerline of the rear yoke of the t/case sye at ride height .

also try swapping front for rear driveshafts for test purposes .

bill

if you get a chance snap a shot of your rear driveshaft installed, so we can get an idea what the pinion angle looks like. I have a few inches less lift than you and had to go with a 6degree shim to get the cv shaft to be correct.

sw_mi_xj said:

this may sound like a silly question , but do you have the shims in correctly ?
you want the rear pinion pointing just slightly below the centerline of the rear yoke of the t/case sye at ride height

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Good eye. I think you are right. It looks like the rear axle is almost level.

I'm running 4.5" of lift with no shims, but do have a 1" t-case drop that I installed because of a knock during braking. I had no vibes or other issues before the drop was installed. Ends up one of my new brake drums was out of round. Had it turned and the problem went away. I am running a slightly longer yoke on my rear drive shaft. The stock yoke was not long enough.

very sexy

Tim... everyone is right. We need to get some underbelly pics to check on your angles. I have 6* shims in with the thick part in front so the pinion points up toward the SYE/TC. If this isn't done you can tear up your DS, TC, and pinion bearings after time.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Ok frist off I will take a pic today and get it on her by tonight. As far as haveing the shims in correctrly, Im pretty sure they are right. I have the fat part of the wedge pointing twards the TC. About the pinion angles, they are 1 degree off from each other if I took the readings in the right places.(on the top of the pumkin of the 8 1/4) (and the flatest spot on the sye.) IM about to go outside and take out the 4 degree shims and try it out with none. If it get worse I'll go back to the 2 degree shims for now till I can correct the problem the right way.

sw_mi_xj said:

looking good , i have the same RE6130 kit and wound up with no transfer case drop / 4* shims . this netted zero vibrations until about 110 mph , lol .

this may sound like a silly question , but do you have the shims in correctly ?
you want the rear pinion pointing just slightly below the centerline of the rear yoke of the t/case sye at ride height .

also try swapping front for rear driveshafts for test purposes .

bill

Click to expand...

Thats exactly how it is set up right now, and its make all kinds of noise and vibes wtf lol. what kind of sye/DS combo are you running if any? Also what year is your rig? And what TC and rear end?

Tim... don't pull anything out yet. Based on what we can see, it looks like you don't have ENOUGH angle. You may need a 6*.

I'll almost bet a paycheck, a 2* isn't enough!!

xj_toker said:

Thats exactly how it is set up right now, and its make all kinds of noise and vibes wtf lol. what kind of sye/DS combo are you running if any? Also what year is your rig? And what TC and rear end?

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porc sye / stock front shaft , 96 / aw4 / 231 / 8.25 .

the " fat " part of the shim goes to the back of the spring pack ( rear of vehicle ), not the front .
if you have it pointed to the front then no wonder you have vibrations because you have doubled the angles in the wrong direction .
and before anyone wants to argue about this , i just went out and looked at mine to be sure .
if it were spring under axle like in a stock mj , then it would go the front .

if after correcting the shim you still have vibrations , then i would bet the driveshaft has issues .
try swapping the current front shaft for the rear one .

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Click on TECH INFO and go to Geometry 101, scroll down to the diagram titled "Proper Geometry For A CV Driveshaft...

He's right by the way.. I always get it backwards when describing it. It IS fat in back.

OK so no pics yet, but I poped out the shims all together and the ride/vibes/noise seemed to have gone away. I took pics but I dont think I can get them up till tomorrow. But about the shims, if i had the fat part pointing tward tward the front they were in backwards?

xj_toker said:

OK so no pics yet, but I poped out the shims all together and the ride/vibes/noise seemed to have gone away. I took pics but I dont think I can get them up till tomorrow. But about the shims, if i had the fat part pointing tward tward the front they were in backwards?

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Yes the fat part should be at the back unless you have some really long shackles?

Gojeep said:

Yes the fat part should be at the back unless you have some really long shackles?

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yeah like 1.5 ~ 2 feet long , lol ...

as far as the proper shim orientation , dont take my word for it .
but when Marcus ( Gojeep ) offers advice , take it as the gospel truth !!

well I guess I just had a hell of noob fart. Im sure glad I pulled them. Gojeep do you think I should put the 2 degree shims back in the correct way? Or should I leave them out, seeing as everything seems ok right now? thanks tim

Always better to have that 3* difference and the reduction of the angle also lengthens the life of the uni so try and fit them in the right way and see.