control arm lenght vs lift

Yes searched and used a chart I found a while back but now have questions.
Been running 6" lift with stock control arms for about 5 years. After some additions to my XJ and fixing some issues I wanted to lengthen my control arms. The chart I used is here http://www.ilovejeeps.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12524
It says for 6" lift use "around" 17" for LCA and 15 1/2" for UCA. Well, I made my arms these lengths and for some reason it doesnt seem right. While installing my axle back under the XJ I installed the LCA's first then installed the coils. Now trying to jack up axle and rotate the UCA mount to the UCA's and they will not reach. Even before I tried putting in the coils I installed both control arms and the axle didnt drop down. The LCA is hitting the lower portion of the coil pad so I really have to compress the coils and rotate at the same time which is a real pita. So am I installing backwards, UCA's with coils first then LCA's? I've done this before but been a really long time. I might go get coil compressors from advance just in case. Any suggestions on the lenghts? What are your CA lenghts if your sitting at 6" lift? Thanks Jeff

I run stock uppers and rough country bent lowers with 6", when i lifted it I had to use a come along connected to the pass. side uca mount and the crossmember to rotate the axle to get my uppers in it was a pita.

To make it easier, you just might want to make longer uca's, but make sure your caster is still correct. I dont know what the spec on caster is off the top of my mind, but you can measure it by taking a protractor across the "C"

anyone know where I need to have the caster set at? Just thought of something, I need to remove the spacers I added a while back to adjust the caster before with the stock control arms. Back to original question, where does the caster need to be set at to be correct. Thanks

Measure your wheelbase and adjust the LCA until you have proper WB length. Then adjust your UCA until you have a happy medium between castor angle and u-joint angle. Get as much castor back without inducing vibes into the u-joint at the pinion.

Nearly every time I adjust LCA or UCA I can do it myself using a floor jack under the track bar mount on the passenger side of the axle. Rolling the tires, like what Goatman often suggests, works well too. No need to remove springs or other parts.

Other than that, I can't imagine ever going back to running 6" of lift without using a control arm drop kit or long arms. If you can swing it, get one or the other. World of difference in handling as well as making control arm adjustments.

CamoXJeep said:

anyone know where I need to have the caster set at? Just thought of something, I need to remove the spacers I added a while back to adjust the caster before with the stock control arms. Back to original question, where does the caster need to be set at to be correct. Thanks

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6 degrees.

Stumpalump said:

6 degrees.

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Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for. Would love to get LA's but it all comes down to money. Basically built this thing to withstand but with minimum amount of money. Either build or repair it myself. I've pretty much stayed to that with the exception of tires. LA's are in the future projects when I get the parts gathered to build them. Until then these will have to do. THanks for the responses.

Well, havent had any luck yet getting this axle mounted up. Bad thing is is I have done this before quite a few times but its been a while. Today has been the only day I've been able to mess with it and as of right now I cant get the axle rotated enough to bolt in the UCA. I have the lowers mounted frame and axle end. UCA's are mounted to the frame. Trying to rotate axle up enough to get the bolt into the axle side but am about 1" away and the LCA's are hitting the part under the coil pad. I did remove the spacers I had installed earlier for the caster and that didnt help. Should I try to mount UCA's first then jack up axle and try to get the LCA's bolts in? What has been easier for any of you. I dont have a big enough ratchet strap to use either. THanks for any help. Jeff

I trimed the coil buckets for lower control arm clearance with a grinder and had luck with a ratchet strap to align the control arm bolts. Last Sunday I did it again but had the outer knuckles still off and I was able to use a 3 foot 4x4 to twist the axel. Maybe a pipe or crow bar would give you some leverage by the ball joints. It took quite a bit of grunt even with the 4x4 lever.

Put a floor jack under the area where the track bar mounts to the axle and slowly jack it up. This will rotate the axle in the direction you need. You can watch the axle rotate as you jack it up, so go slow as the holes get close to being aligned.

There was one time my axle was rotated much too far and I couldn't get it rotated back enough to get the control arms back on. I ended up starting the engine and VERY slowly moved my XJ in the direction necessary to rotated the axle for me. It worked, but I was very careful.

As for the LCAs hitting the coil mounts, I assume this is because your axle is rotated too far back and will be corrected once the UCAs are in place. Is this right? If not, then it sounds like your LCAs are much too short. Of course, at 6" of lift and not having long arms or the drop bracket kit, you're gonna have some clearance issues.

Tom R. said:

Of course, at 6" of lift and not having long arms or the drop bracket kit, you're gonna have some clearance issues.

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Just really got to thinking about that and your right. When I was using stock CA's they were only LCA 15 3/4" UCA 15" and now there LCA 17" UCA 15 1/2" so basically because the lowers were extended 1 1/4" and uppers only 1/2" the lowers are gonna be stopped by the mounts under the coil pad. Duhhhhhhh. LOL thanks for the responses. Jeff