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!993 Ford Eploder rear end, gear ratio

pull the cover, count the teeth on the ring and pinion,.
ring teeth/pinion teeth=gear ratio.
 
i believe the ring gear usually has the ratio on it. without removing the cover mark the companion flange(where the d-shaft bolts up) and turn the tires/rims/axle 1 time count the number of times the flange spins. thats the ratio. goes around 3 and a half times its a 3.55 if a little more 3 3/4 its a 3.73 just over 4 times 4.11
 
im swapping in the 8.8 cause my rear is going bad for some reason. but my conserns are in regards to keeping it simple as possible. i did a 3 inch lift and the DS rests a little further out of the back of the tranny by maybe a inch an a half, not much. but i am wondering if by using the yoke flange now, if it will push said DS back into the tranny where is belongs. if so then i wont have to drop the trans case or do the very expensive sye. and is there a way of using the ford flange which, if i remember corectly uses a 1330, and keep the ds from the xj and find a way to make the u-joints work. or at least with inexpensive modification. its just that my rear going out happened at a bad time (as if it ever happens at a good time, right) i just need the simplest swap to still make it drivable until i can do it right.
 
If you have the 1330 companion flange on the axle, go to NAPA or other suitable vendor and get a 1310/1330 combination joint....aka adapter joint.
 
try www.therangerstation.com its a website dedicated to rangers broncoIIs and early exploders. They will probly be more that happy to help and have a awesome tech library
 
Try DAN5134X. Spicer makes it but combination joints may not be as strong as square joints and if you break it you can't just pick one up at Autozone or from a trail buddy. The 1310 flange yoke you need is not that hard to find. Put a piece of paper on your flange and mark the mounting holes. Take this to nappa or a driveshaft place and ask for the ford type flange adapter in a 1310 u-joint size. You may need the paper you made because ford used two different patterns for this type flange. It should cost about the same as a spicer combo joint anyway. I never reuse u-joints so this would be a good time to slap in a super strong non-greasable real Spicer joint. Or you still can take the number I gave you to nappa and get the combo to save money in a place that aint worth saving it on. I'm picking up a front drive shaft today and I wanted to do the same thing with the combo joint but after looking at the parts and talking to the experts at Englewood driveshaft I bought a new yoke for the front pinion in a 1310 to match the driveshaft. I would have upgraded the driveshaft end but it would hit the down pipe. Sure glade I layed under the jeep for a while and looked at all the clearance issues befor I got home with a shaft that would hit. Learn enough stuff the hard way and you finnaly start looking at everything twice and learn to listen to the experts.
 
The companion flange to use a regular 1310 joint is a Spicer # 2-2-1379
 
well i ordered a u joint using a local 4x4 shop. kinda priicey but it will work. if i ever do break it i will already have a new yoke flange that will work. on another note, i took the time to pull the rear from my dead exploder and found that it had 3.27 gears so it just isnt going to work. i went to staunton wrecking and bought a 98 with discs and calipers for 300. and i happened to find a complete header panel, with chrome grille, and headlights for 45. i started cleaning the rear end for a couple of hours b4 i wnt to work. pulled all the barke lines rotors, calipers, etc. i pulled the diff cover and it looks like a baby inside, the oil looked great and the only thing in the oil was tiny peices of the paint from the inside of the cover. i will keep everyone posted but at this time all is well.
 
by the way what is the reason that u have to use a "low hydrogen welder" to weld the tubes to the pumpkin. why wont my little welder work. its rated up to 1/8 inch if that helps give you an idea what i am working with here.
 
I think that has to do with the different metals, steel and cast iron. Another option for flange adaptor for the 1310 joints is a Ranger yoke off of an 8.8 - they used 1310 joints and should bolt right up. I am doing the 8.8 install now with 4.11 and disk and trakloc, and a high pinion 30 as well. Good luck with yours.
 
well i think i might do a poor mans locker but i am not sure yet. my d35 is getting really bad. its still drivable....but to what end. i want to get this 8.8 in b4 my 35 explodes inside. but there is still alot of work to do.
 
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