242 Stud Thread Size

I was hoping that someone could tell me what size the threads are on the studs that hold the transfer case to the transmission. I have been to every local shop and none have anything close. Online store with the correct parts?

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/screws.html

courtesy of 5-90

btw, didnt look to see if it was there, just thought it might

I'm not sure if it's there myself, but they're typically 3/8"-16 into the casting, and 3/8"-24 nuts.

If all you need are nuts, you can get 3/8"-24 and call it a day. If you need to replace studs, get a stick of 3/8"-16 threaded rod, remove the studs, cut the threaded rod to length, and replace the nuts with 3/8"-16 as well. There are engineering reasons for using a coarse thread/fine thread stud, but there's not enough stress on the fasteners for them to apply here.

Ramsey said:

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/screws.html

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Thanks Ramsey for the quick response. The link you provided says....

1987-1990

3/8"-24

Hex Nuts OK. CRES if possible, SAE Grade 5 or SAE Grade 8 will also work.

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Would you happen to know if this would apply for a 242 and AW4 from a '98XJ?

Also, the OEM studs have two different threads. Course on one end and fine thread on the other and a smooth part in the center. The course end goes into the case.

I know I'm new here, but I tend to over analize everything, so I have to ask; can I get a stud that is simplly one long thread the whole length of the stud or does the different thread types and the smooth spot on the OEM step serve some kind of purpose?

scott00tj said:

Thanks Ramsey for the quick response. The link you provided says....



Would you happen to know if this would apply for a 242 and AW4 from a '98XJ?

Also, the OEM studs have two different threads. Course on one end and fine thread on the other and a smooth part in the center. The course end goes into the case.

I know I'm new here, but I tend to over analize everything, so I have to ask; can I get a stud that is simplly one long thread the whole length of the stud or does the different thread types and the smooth spot on the OEM step serve some kind of purpose?

Click to expand...

Your post much have gone up when mine did, or right about that time.

There's no sound reason to change the tooling in mid-stream, so I'm fairly sure that stud stayed inch.

There's no reason you can't get a stud with a single thread - the shoulder is usually there so you don't run it in too deep, but that's also not really necessary in this application.

A coarse thread is used when going into a casting to allow the material to hold more stress - nuts are made from wrought bar stock, which is inherently stronger (due to an "ordered" grain structure, vice the "amourphous" grain structure of a casting.) This allows a finer thread - with a thinner thread root - to hold more than a coarse thread run into a casting. Since transfer case stud nuts aren't heavily preloaded (something less than 30 pound-feet, as I recall,) that doesn't really apply here, and you can safely use a coarse thread all the way out.

Thanks 5-90, I think I responded the same time you did. I appreciate it.

Anyone have an online supplier for said studs they would recommend?

scott00tj said:

Anyone have an online supplier for said studs they would recommend?

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I'd just cut them out of threaded rod, and call it a day. That's usualy what I do when I need some funky stud that isn't overstressed (these don't have any tension on them, other than installation torque. No shear, either. Threaded rod, unless otherwise specified, is heat-treated to SAE Grade 5 or ISO Property Class 8.8, and will serve neatly - assuming carbon steel. Other materials are heat-treated to whatever is common for fasteners of that material.)

You should be able to find threaded rod and nuts to fit at your local hardware store - I can get the stuff in 1-foot and 3-foot sticks all day long down the street at Orchard Supply, for instance. However, if you have an outfit like "Quality Farm & Fleet" handy (gawd, I miss those guys...) go there - they'll have better stuff.

Do you have to use studs? Could you getthe correct length and thread grade eight bolts and just hold the case on that way?

scott00tj said:

Do you have to use studs? Could you getthe correct length and thread grade eight bolts and just hold the case on that way?

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You'll have difficulty clearing the ribs cast into the transfer case adapter housing - easier to use studs. Besides, you can wrestle the case into place, hold it up with one hand (while resting on the shaft and studs) and get the first couple of nuts started with the other hand - I've done it that way. Thus is the advantage to studs.

If you're going to replace them in toto, I'd seriously consider keeping at least the top stud for that reason. I also tend to put studs in the top holes on axle covers, and put about four in the oil pans (and maybe even a couple on the valve cover.) That way, I can just hold them in place with one hand while I get nuts with the other, then I can let got and use both hands to start screws.

Thanks again for the input 5-90. I was more curious then anything else. I bed I'll end up with buying threaded rod.