Neutral Safety Switch Install (yes, I searched)

I ran a search and could not find any definitive instructions for changing out my NSS -- it has been on its way out for a long time -- started with the Jeep not wanting to start all the time and at my last inspection I realized that this issue was connected to my reverse lights not wanting to come on! A little tap of the shifter and away we go!!

So -- I was down in Charlottesville visiting one of my mechanic friends this weekend. We went out and bought a NSS -- crawled under the Jeep and saw where it hooks in -- but he said he thought it looked like a pretty involved process, so we didn't so the install today.

Can anyone give me/us an idea of how this install goes? What needs to be removed in order to get the switch in/out?

Thanks guys.

Emily :rof:

I just did one on a 98 XJ yesturday so its fresh on my mind.

The first thing I do is to trace the wire loom up to the connecter and clip off the 3 factory zip ties, these are not easy to get to and I consider this the hardest part.

There is a screw that holds the switch in the proper position, since I rebuild the switches instead of replacing them I always take a permenent marker and trace around the washer so that I can relocate the switch properly on reinstall. Remove the screw with a 12 mm socket.

There is a washer under the large nut on the selector shaft that the retainer ears need to be bent out of the way in order to remove the nut. I use a screwdriver to bend them up and themn remove the nut, retainer and rubber washer.

Disconnect the connector (just above the bell housing on the pass. side) and feed the connector and wire loom down towards the switch. The best way I have found to get the switch out without damaging it is to take a cheap screwdriver and put a 90* bend in it. You can usually get in between the transmission case and the switch a lightly pry it out/off the shaft.

When reinstalling the nut do not overtighten it, just bring it down snug and bend the washer's ears back over to retain it. You will have to adjust the switch so that it will start in park and nuetral only.

Another note; do not turn the key on while the switch is unplugged, I've found that it will throw a CEL when you go to restart the XJ.

You could have rebuilt your old one for about $5, I use electrical contact cleaner and some new di-electric grease.

Others may have more to add?

Jon

Thanks Jon. A new one was only about $15 -- unless I bought the wrong thing!

Does it look like this?

XJGrl said:

Thanks Jon. A new one was only about $15 -- unless I bought the wrong thing!

Click to expand...

$15? did they change them on the newer XJ's, I rebuilt mine because the new ones are around $140. I have an '87.

The one I have pictured is out of the 98 I did yesterday.

Here's a writeup... I didn't read it yet, but it's from GoJeep, so I'm sure it's good.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm
Billy

Well while I'm at it here is the rebuild of the switch;

Remove the 6 phillips head screws and pull the 2 halves apart.

Pull the wiper out, be carefull not to loose the 2 contacts and small springs.

Carfully and with a small screwdriver or x-acto knife , pull the contacts out of the wiper.

Clean it all up with a toothbrush and some contact cleaner. I use emory cloth to clean all of the brass contacts.

Lube it up with the new di-electric grease and put it back together, I also stretch the springs a couple of mm so the contact point will be tighter.

All done! $130 saved. Reinstall it.

Torque the collet nut to NOT MORE THAN 61 pound-inches (5 pound-feet.) This is painfully easy to strip out...

Apply never-seez to the manual shift shaft (the shaft that runs through the NSS as mounted) to make it easier to remove next time. Don't get any on the threads of the collet!

A little low-strength LocTite (222 or 242) will help with the adjuster screw up top - don't use anything on the collet nut.

If you aren't going to do anything with the old NSS, I'd like to see if I can get it from you. I've got a few ideas I'm working on...

Nope -- Didn't look like that. And, ya know, now that I think about it -- we asked for a "reverse light switch" at the parts store (his words, not mine) -- is there such a thing? What we bought looks like a big spark plug of sorts -- but my descriptions are generally crappy. But it had no wires hanging off of it.

Ok -- back to square one!!!

Follow the directions and rebuild yours, If your buddy is a mechanic it will not be a problem for him or you for that matter. Its fairly easy, just allow yourself a couple of hours since it is your first time.

I've done 20+ so it usually only takes me 30 min. or so.

XJGrl said:

Nope -- Didn't look like that. And, ya know, now that I think about it -- we asked for a "reverse light switch" at the parts store (his words, not mine) -- is there such a thing? What we bought looks like a big spark plug of sorts -- but my descriptions are generally crappy. But it had no wires hanging off of it.

Ok -- back to square one!!!

Click to expand...

You probably got the reverse switch that screws into the side of the manual tranny. The advice above for R&Ring the NSS is pretty good, although I disagree that the hardest part may be getting the switch off. Use lots of penetrating fluid and be careful prying as the back side of the switch is plastic.

XJGrl said:

Nope -- Didn't look like that. And, ya know, now that I think about it -- we asked for a "reverse light switch" at the parts store (his words, not mine) -- is there such a thing? What we bought looks like a big spark plug of sorts -- but my descriptions are generally crappy. But it had no wires hanging off of it.

Ok -- back to square one!!!

Click to expand...

Yes, there is. Sounds like you got one for a manual transmission tho - there's a sort of "ball plunger" that gets pressed in by the shift fork in Reverse. The "Neutral Start Safety" function is usually done with a switch on the clutch pedal - looks like a brake light switch.

The AW4 (four-speed auto used in the XJ) combines the two - the neutral start switch and reverse lamp switch - into a single unit - and that unit is the big honkin' thing in the pictures.

A couple bits of advice from my own experience...

1) Have a bag large enough to put both hands in (doesn't matter what sort.) When you remove the screws, put the switch and your hands in the bag. The first time I did this, there wasn't a lot of goop in the switch - and a 10-minute job turned into a 70-minute job, since I had to make two new contacts and find another spring...

2) A very light bead of RTV around the sealing edge helps - especially if you drive throgh a lot of water.

3) Use either dielectric grease or electrical corrosion inhibitor for lubricating the innards - NOTHING ELSE! You should be able to find either of those easily - dielectric grease is carried by most parts houses, and corrosion inhibitor should be found in the electrical section of your local hardware store.

4) An old toothbrush works well for cleaning this thing out - with either electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Please, for the love of Gawd and all that's holy, do not use WD-40! I've had to undo a lot of people's "fixes" over the year - WD-40 is not RPT not an electrical contact cleaner!

You know, We didn't think to ask, Is your XJ a straight or a auto? I just asumed that you had a auto when you asked about a nuetral safety switch.

Also what year?

Yes its auto -- 1998 -- 4.0 -- and so on. Ill talk to my buddy today and I am sure he will "see the light". Thanks!!! Just tryin to fix all of these little silly things so I dont become "that girl" this summer on the side of the trail IF I decide to go on any rides.......

I'm still haveing trouble takein the NSS off the side of the tranny seems to be seized..

gilby7887 said:

I'm still haveing trouble takein the NSS off the side of the tranny seems to be seized..

Click to expand...

Did you remove the locking bolt from the top side of the switch, it takes a 12 mm socket.
You did remove the collet nut correct? If so, did you spray some lubricant on the shaft to loosen it?

I've found that many times you have to work the switch back ond forth on the shaft to get it start sliding.

An old scredriver bent into a 90 degree angle will work. Just insert it in between the switch and the transmission case and LIGHTLY pry out on the switch.

The aluminum shaft of the switch seizes to the steel shaft that passes through it. Do not try to pry the outer shaft apart or it will break. There is a tiny bit of end play in the transmission shaft. I found the best way to remove a seized-on one is to pull the whole switch assembly out as far as it goes (taking up the play in the shaft) and hold it out with a screwdriver or some other shim behind the switch body, and then tap gently on the steel shaft to break it free. It's delicate. Be careful. You may have to work it back and forth a few times before it slides apart. Lube it generously and work very slowly and carefully. Remember at the price of a new switch that even if it takes an hour to loosen, if the difference is between winning and losing, you're paying yourself about a hundred bucks an hour to do it right.

If the nss has gone out does ANYONE know if it will turn over and just not start.