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Thicker Rear Swaybars

Yup, ditch the sway bar. And steal the trangular frame mounts for bar-pin eliminators on the rear shocks. People say they're thin, but I've been puttin a hurtin on them for over a year and 20,000 miles, and they still look like they did when I put um on.
 
bjoehandley said:
My truck spends enough time on paved surfaces that my 235/75/15 Wranglers barely make much sense let alone ditching the rear swaybar.
Click to expand...

well i can't see that adding a bigger REAR sway bar will make a difference, especially due to the FACT that a 4-6" lifted XJ with No rear sway bar handles on-road just as good without one at all..

maybe if you want the to perform like a sports car you should trade it for mazda zoom-zoom XUV
 
JLane99XJ said:
well i can't see that adding a bigger REAR sway bar will make a difference, especially due to the FACT that a 4-6" lifted XJ with No rear sway bar handles on-road just as good without one at all..

maybe if you want the to perform like a sports car you should trade it for mazda zoom-zoom XUV
Click to expand...
x2 i got 5.5" lift and 33's no swaybars and unless i got 50 into a turn would never know:fuse::eek:
 
With lifted springs the spring rate of the leafs is higher enough than stock that you can ditch the sway bar without noticing. I wouldn't ditch it on a street machine though, it does help in cornering a little. There is one company IIRC that makes it, maybe adco or addco or something like that. Not certain though of the company name.
 
xj92 said:
With lifted springs the spring rate of the leafs is higher enough than stock that you can ditch the sway bar without noticing. I wouldn't ditch it on a street machine though, it does help in cornering a little. There is one company IIRC that makes it, maybe adco or addco or something like that. Not certain though of the company name.
Click to expand...


I just wanted to make sure that I didn't already have the better rear bar or that there wasn't a better factory one before I blew the money on the Addco bar (I've seen their bars for vehicles that weren't so equiped from the factory, kinda scary looking!). I'm running stock height with Napa/Tennecco airshocks on the back but would like a little more rear roll stiffness beyond what the airshocks at 30-40psi offer.
 
remember that if you increase the size of he rear sway bar, you'll cause the Jeep to understeer... that's one way that drifters get theirs to understeer.
I run without sway bars, and it's not that bad. For around town, I'd never put one back in... if I start to do more highway/freeway driving, then yeah I'll put a front back in.
 
ddeadserious said:
ditch the rear sway bar, it's the cool thing to do.
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I try to do what the "cool kids" aren't doing.


mjma said:
you run 30-40 psi in your tires!!!! yikes!
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Um, that was the airshocks, but I normally run 36psi in the tires too.


PhotographerMike said:
There was a police package ( don't know about your year) with a bigger rear, and possably front, bar. You might want to replace the front sway upper bushings with something a bit harder while you're under there.

Mike
Click to expand...

I've wondered about that myself, I was wondering if I could get away with all Urethane (sp?) in the back and maybe fresh rubber or a fresh rubber/urethane mix on the front.


artsifrtsi said:
remember that if you increase the size of he rear sway bar, you'll cause the Jeep to understeer... that's one way that drifters get theirs to understeer.
I run without sway bars, and it's not that bad. For around town, I'd never put one back in... if I start to do more highway/freeway driving, then yeah I'll put a front back in.
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You mean oversteer, right?
I use it enough in corners, sometimes at higher speeds, that a little more bar and maybe a limited slip would help, especially in 2wd.
 
Last edited:
I think if you are looking for less lean in a turn you should stiffen the front not the rear. If you put in a thicker sway bar in the rear it could cause the rear tire on the inside of the turn to loose traction.
 
bjoehandley said:
Um, that was the airshocks, but I normally run 36psi in the tires too.
Click to expand...

psi of the tires should be set by the gvw, type of tires,size and wheel width; NOT the type of shocks your using..

to much air and you'll cause the tread premature wear down the center section (due to the thing being "ballooned" out)
-to little air and the outsides of the tread wear more quickly...

since you described this xj as being a ppl hauler 24-7-365 i'd think properly inflated evenly wearing tires would be more important
**search how to chalk/paint the tread to determine psi for optimal wear.
 
JLane99XJ said:
psi of the tires should be set by the gvw, type of tires,size and wheel width; NOT the type of shocks your using..
Click to expand...

He never said thats what he's doing.
The "too" he added is to indicate that its a coincidence that his airshocks (30-40psi) and tires (36psi) are near the same pressure.
Context helps.:)
 
imfrankyj said:
I think if you are looking for less lean in a turn you should stiffen the front not the rear. If you put in a thicker sway bar in the rear it could cause the rear tire on the inside of the turn to loose traction.
Click to expand...
From wikipedia....
"Anti roll bars provide 2 main functions:
The first is the reduction of body lean. The reduction of body lean is dependent on the total roll stiffness of the vehicle. Increasing the total roll stiffness of a vehicle does not change the steady state total load (weight) transfer from the inside wheels to the outside wheels, it only reduces body lean. The total lateral load transfer is determined by the CG height and track width.
The other function of anti roll bars is to tune the high g / limit understeer behavior of the vehicle. The limit understeer behavior is tuned by changing the proportion of the total roll stiffness that comes from the front and rear axles. Increasing the proportion of roll stiffness at the front will increase the proportion of the total weight transfer that the front axle reacts and decrease the proportion that the rear axle reacts. This will cause the outer front wheel to run at a higher slip angle, and the outer rear wheel to run at a lower slip angle, which is an understeer effect. Increasing the proportion of roll stiffness at the rear axle will have the opposite effect and decrease understeer."
Click to expand...
 
It looks like as if putting in a thicker bar in the rear will give you more oversteer and less of a slip angle for the inner wheel when turning. So you need to have a good balance, it looks like a big bar in the front is going to make you understeer and spin that inner rear tire whereas a bigger one in the back will get a more desirable effect. If you wanted to ditch the swaybar (not that brightest idea for a DD), then it looks like you should be prepared for understeer.
My stock swaybars are 26mm in front and 16mm in the back.
 
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