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Cj d30 outers on xj d30

8

89jeepxjw

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
Im on my next build and in the theme of keeping it a very comfy daily driver, and a pretty serious weekend warrior I have decided to keep the axles somewhat mild (Hpd30,29spl 8.25). Im not gonna have a selectable locker in the front just a lunchbox of some sort and dont really enjoy the vague steering feeling of the locked front on pavement. This leaves me with two options to fit my preference, 1) Buy a selectable Locker, or 2) manual hub conversion. In the local scrap yards I find old cj's with manual hubs all the time, I have never really researched the subject but can I pretty much bolt these hubs on? I know its not going to be that easy but in the general jist of things is it possible, or are the parts alone gonna cost more than a selectable locker?
 
X 2
i think i saw peterson's 4 wheel drive had a article about a hybrid d30 i think that it had 44 outers ? i don't remember. a low buck hub conversion would be nice tough the vibs on my frount suck
 
I "think" there is an issue with the knuckles not working with the XJ inner C's.
 
Billavista over on pirate put old school D30 inner Cs onto a modern D30, so that he could run the D30 outer Cs (or maybe it was 44 outer Cs, I forget) and lockouts. It takes some fab work, but it can be done.

I would love to have a setup like that, but dont' want to put the work in. For now I'll deal with swapping hubs every so often.
 
theres Warn as well as milemarker (less $) avail for the XJ d30. Other wise you have to cut off the inner C's and have CJ inner C's installed on your housing. Way too much work and $$ to make it benificial I think.
 
The only way you can get CJ Dana 30 outer knuckles to fit is to cut off the current inner C's on your XJ axle and weld on the older style inner C's from the CJ or get Dana 44 inner C's and knuckles. The old style dana 30 and 44 outer knuckles are very similar. Depending on how much time and effort you want to spend on it is up to you and only you can decide if its worth it or not.

Whats wrong with running a lunchbox locker up front with the factory hubs? You will not know its there unless you have the transfercase in 4x4. I ran a lockrite in the front of my Dana 30 for years and never had an issue with it on the street.

AARON
 
i don't notice mine either but talking my drive shaft on and off for a long drive sucks !!
what abot the outers from a ford ? isnt that were warn milemaker get the spindels from ?
 
chrslefty said:
i don't notice mine either but talking my drive shaft on and off for a long drive sucks !!
what abot the outers from a ford ? isnt that were warn milemaker get the spindels from ?
Click to expand...
Why are you pulling the driveshaft?Locked or open on the highway your driveshaft will spin.I dont see the need,Im at 6"+ on a LP D30 with zero issues!
 
From what i remember of BillaVista's build was the use of CJ inner C's (for the D44 balljoints) and D44 outers. It entailed custom inner shafts.

The D44 inner C's had too large an ID...unless you sleeved the D30 tubes.
 
89jeepxjw said:
... locker in the front just a lunchbox of some sort and dont really enjoy the vague steering feeling of the locked front on pavement. This leaves me with two options to fit my preference, 1) Buy a selectable Locker, or 2) manual hub conversion. ...
Click to expand...


not to dispute you, but not knowing what t-case you have i'll assume 2-things..
1) you know what you're tallking about and you have a full-time 4wd type t-case..
2) you know that a typical d-30 found under all xj's will accept a "lunchbox" locker and unless you have a full-time 4wd t-case -& it will NEVER engage while in 2wd, so unless you plan on driving around in 4wd on the pavement it doesn't matter what HUBs you have,
that said the acheivement of manual locking hubs can be done by either buying a very pricey warn conversion kit or by cutting off the inner-cs and welding on cs from a cj as mentioned..
 
I understand where you are coming from, it is a contradicting question. Its a np231 so its only there when I want,or need it. The question arouse from my other rig,a 89 pioneer with a hpd30, aussie,4.56's. On the street it seemed liked it had a very very vague issue with steering and it was running 1-ton flipped steering, so i know the stock junk was not the cause. I had replaced the steering box,pump and all lines in an effort to cure it and had not luck. I was skeptical to blame the traction aid but after replacing nearly every part of the steering system I really had no idea. That being said I still would like the option of manual hubs on a budget.
 
89jeepxjw said:
I understand where you are coming from, it is a contradicting question. Its a np231 so its only there when I want,or need it. The question arouse from my other rig,a 89 pioneer with a hpd30, aussie,4.56's. On the street it seemed liked it had a very very vague issue with steering and it was running 1-ton flipped steering, so i know the stock junk was not the cause. I had replaced the steering box,pump and all lines in an effort to cure it and had not luck. I was skeptical to blame the traction aid but after replacing nearly every part of the steering system I really had no idea. That being said I still would like the option of manual hubs on a budget.
Click to expand...

hmmm

not sure about the function of an aussie locker but as i understand it works the same as a lock-right, not sure maybe you should research that..

but i do know with a lock-right the ONLY difference from stock while in 2wd is you can hear the side-gear teeth ratcheting when steering and driving slowly, but thats all..
 
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