Need help with my (Viper?) alarm system

I searched and tried to figure out which forum to put this in, and this seemed like the best one, so...

I bought my 1994 XJ last June. It was originally from New York State, and the PO installed an alarm system. I know nothing about alarm systems, and I can't seem how to arm and disarm it or what to do when the stupid thing starts going off. The first day I bought it, I disconnected the two alarm sirens (thank goodness). When the alarm goes off, the lights flash, the sirens wail, and the ignition doesn't work. I can deal with the lights and sirens, but the ignition not working really bothers me. If I have to remove the battery from the vehicle, that triggers the alarm, and I can't start the truck. Based on a search on the 800 number on the back of the key fob, I think that it is a Viper alarm, but I'm not positive.

So here's the info I have:

There's a small toggle switch that is down by the hood release. It says "On/Off".

Theres a control box under the dash with a huge amount of wiring coming out.

There's also a sensor box thingy on the steering column under the dash that lights up if I tap it.

I have a key fob with buttons on it and I've tried just about every combination of pushing and holding between the two to figure out how to arm and disarm the alarm when I want, and I can't figure it out. Here's what the key fob looks like:





So my questions are:

Is this a good alarm and should I try to make it work (I park in a garage)?

How do I make it work?

Where would I get a replacement key fob thingy if I can make it work (If I loose the one I'm screwed)?

How can I make the ignition work separate from the alarm?

Thanks for any info!

"IF" it's a viper then yea it's a good alarm. Seems that it is working if you can't start the car when it's going off...does your remote work? if it does then the push of one button will arm and disarm the alarm. parking lights wil flash...usually one flash lock/armed and two flashes disarmed/unlock could be the oppisite though. If you lose the remote you can just unlpug the alarm...you've located the "brain" already...this is the box under the dash you mentoned, not the one with the flash...thats a shock sensor. you can also find the make and model on this box if you look. To make the alarm work without starter kill you'll have to remove the relay in there....and there has to be one unless it's internal but I doubt it. It basically is spliting your starter wire to run through the relay and through the alarm system...find where the break in that wire is and re-attatch them. I' d say just leave it though and figure out how it works...you could probably go to a shop that installs viper alarms and they could show you how it works pretty easy. figure out how it works and leave it in.

I have a Viper alarm and my fobs look nothing like yours. If yours is a Viper, I wonder if it is a very old version as those fobs look very outdated.

replace the battery in the key fob. The button with one dash sets it, the bottom with two dashes disarms it. If you hold down on one of the buttons (I dont recall which) its a panic alarm and will set the alarm off.
The toggle is for the valet switch, its so you can disarm or arm the system without the key fob. You just put your key in the ignition, turn it and flip the switch.
The box with all the wires under the dash is the control center or "brain" of the alarm.
The little box with the red light is the shock sensor that senses abrupt movements of the jeep, like someone hitting the windshield or climbing in or slamming a door. When the light blinks, thats when the shock sensor has been set off.
there should also be a red light on the dash somewhere that will light up when the alarm is set. It will also show the status of the system by blinking a number of times.
Go to DEI (directed electronics) website http://www.directed.com/ . They make Viper and several other systems and they have a full set of instructions that you can download on their site.

Ray H. - thanks, that's the info I was looking for. Now to figure out which model system I have??? I'll take a look at the brain box today and see if there are some model numbers or something.

Are there ways to order new key fobs?

Nevermind, found a place:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/492T.htm

Capt,

Just want to clarify a couple of things from the above post, your remote Button I (with one mark) will Arm and Disarm the Alarm, Button II is for Channel two and used for accessories like window up, remote start or trunk pop.

The remote you have picture looks like on older model DEI could be a pre HF model but won’t know until you check the Brain, if its DEI will have a model number of the front of it. It will read something like 500, 550, 600 etc. It may have a "+" or an "HF" after it giving more detail. Since it has a separate shock sensor it will not be a 300 or 300+ model, those had built in shock sensors.

The toggle switch is more then likely the Valet switch, but if it is an older model it could be a Disarm/program switch or it could be a remote start bypass switch as well. Check for another switch under the dash or in the kick panel (Where most installer put them) it looks like this.


If you find one like it's a momentary switch and will also disarm the alarm, more on this later.

To check to see if the remote needs a new battery hit a button the red LED on the remote will light up, if it doesn't it will need a new battery or it could be defective. If it does light up and it still doesn't arm or disarm the alarm it may not be programmed or it could be the wrong remote for the alarm. To program the remote we will need to know the model number. They are pretty close to the same process but I want to make sure the remote is the correct for the alarm first. Also I can’t tell from the pic but what are the numbers on the, we can cross reference those to get the remote model number and make sure it works for the alarm you have.

It sounds like the system is passive arming which means 30 seconds after you turn the Key off and close the door the system arms itself. You can tell if passive arming is set if you turn the key off and shut the door, the LED will blink very fast for 30 seconds, once armed it will blink twice a second. To turn this off we will need to know the model number and find the other switch.

Now, if you can find the momentary switch we can Also Disarm the alarm by turning on the key and within 15 second hit the momentary switch.

Once you have the model number let me know, if it a HF model or newer you can download the user manual on line.. If it's older we can get one through DEI or I may have one around.

Well, here's all the numbers I could find earlier today-

On the remote:
Des. 347,190
1-800-274-0200
229 Codes (the 29 is in small superscript)
FCC ID: EZSDEI493C

On the "brain box":
Directed Electronics
EZSDEI430-A
332237A

Now all you need is my address and you all can come over and steal my rig

The key fob will shut the alarm off it seems, but I can't figure out what the sequence is - eventually I push enough buttons or turn the key enough for the rig to start. If I can find an instruction manual for my alarm model, that would be a great start.

I also haven't found any kind of momentary switch.

Give me a few minutes, and I'll take a few pics of the alarm in the vehicle.

It seems, as someone has suggested, I was able to turn the alarm off by turning the ignition to the "on" position, and flipping the valet switch. The alarm isn't doing anything now. Hmph...

So here's what the alarm looks like in my rig:

Valet switch:


Motion sensor thingy:


Brain box front:


Brain box back:


Now, are these part of the system?

Yellow panel (I believe there is a red LED on the other side of it) -


Black box next to the fuse panel:


Thanks for the help thus far, I'm very encouraged that this is something I might be able to use.

The two bottom pics have nothing to do with the alarm. the top two you have correct. I cant believe there isnt a red light someplace on the dash.

The black box in the last pic is your chime module.

The yellow thing is a relay center that looks very factory (I haven't dealt with a 94 before so I don't know for sure).

Later,
Joe

Well I got good news and bad new. the good news I know what alarm you have. it's an Automate AM3 made by DEI in the early 90's.

The bad news is I cant find a users manual and DEI doesn't have one this old on their site. They may be able to send you one or at least tell you the operations basics.

The Pics you sent helped. and as stated before the Yellow relay panel is factory and the black box is the chime, but in the picture with the Yellow panel there are are a couple of things that caught my eye.
The Yellow lines point to aftermarket wires, which look like they are connected to a relay (white circle) but it's under the harnes and cant really tell, this could be a door lock relay or something else. But the Small green circle looks to have LED wires the small blue and Red wires are LED those should lead to the alarm LED.



You never did say if there was an LED on the dash anywhere, this will give clues as to what the alarm is doing. I am pretty fuzzy remembering this alarm but really it should be Press button one once it arms. some early DEI alarms you had to press and hold about 1 second to Arm, the lights should flash once and the siren should beep once, to disarm just press button 1 once the lights should flash twice and the siren should beep twice to confrim.

Getting Replacment remotes for these is getting harder but they can still be found on line they are Bianary Scratch coded so once programed (scratched) they will only work with that alarm, you will need to open your current remote (little screw on the back) and inside there is a set of numbers on a white sticker, this is the program code. Your local Car Audio shop could have a replacement remote and they will code it for you.

If anything else comes back to me about this I will let you know.

I would like to know what happens now when you push the remote button 1 now.

P1atinum said:

Well I got good news and bad new. the good news I know what alarm you have. it's an Automate AM3 made by DEI in the early 90's.

The bad news is I cant find a users manual and DEI doesn't have one this old on their site. They may be able to send you one or at least tell you the operations basics.

The Pics you sent helped. and as stated before the Yellow relay panel is factory and the black box is the chime, but in the picture with the Yellow panel there are are a couple of things that caught my eye.
The Yellow lines point to aftermarket wires, which look like they are connected to a relay (white circle) but it's under the harnes and cant really tell, this could be a door lock relay or something else. But the Small green circle looks to have LED wires the small blue and Red wires are LED those should lead to the alarm LED.

You never did say if there was an LED on the dash anywhere, this will give clues as to what the alarm is doing. I am pretty fuzzy remembering this alarm but really it should be Press button one once it arms. some early DEI alarms you had to press and hold about 1 second to Arm, the lights should flash once and the siren should beep once, to disarm just press button 1 once the lights should flash twice and the siren should beep twice to confrim.

Getting Replacment remotes for these is getting harder but they can still be found on line they are Bianary Scratch coded so once programed (scratched) they will only work with that alarm, you will need to open your current remote (little screw on the back) and inside there is a set of numbers on a white sticker, this is the program code. Your local Car Audio shop could have a replacement remote and they will code it for you.

If anything else comes back to me about this I will let you know.

I would like to know what happens now when you push the remote button 1 now.

Click to expand...

P1atinum - thanks for the help! What you have circled and the white lines pointed to is my mess. I had to relocate the rear wiper/washer switch to the other side (headlight switch side) of the steering wheel so that my ARB switches could go in the stock locations on the radio side of the steering wheel. The wires you have circled in green, well, I'll have to look at those later today. There is no LED that I can see on the dash anywhere, but it may be hidden somewhere up under there by the previous owner.

EDIT - those wires you circled in green did go to a LED. When I bought the vehicle, the little plastic part that goes right under the steering column was missing, so I replaced it with one from my other Jeep. Well, I just chased those wires you circled, and out from under the dash came that small plastic dash piece and the LED installed in it. Right now the LED is on (constant red).

I think I may be on the road to making this work. If I turn the ignition to on and flip the valet switch, the alarm then responds to the remote. One push of the button and the alarm seems to go on (lights flash twice and stop), another push of the same button and the alarm turns off (lights flash twice again). If I open the door after pushing the button once, the alarm goes off. I can turn the alarm entirely off by turning the ignition to on and flipping the valet switch the other way. After I try this sequence a few more times to make sure that I know what I'm doing, I'll hook the sirens back up and see if they chirp with the lights when activating and deactivating the alarm.

So is this alarm any good, or should I scrap it and start over? Early 90's technology, 21st century thieves...???!!!

Ok now we are getting somewhere.

First let me say in my very humble opinion any alarm is better then not. And really the major technology changes from the 90’s and now are in Features, Code hopping and two way communications other then that they have pretty much the same basic function. If a thief wants your junk he is going to get it. The only thing you can do is make it as hard as possible for him to get it without being notices.

A few simple steps anyone can do to make their alarm better, the key here is wanting to bring as much attention to the Jeep as possible for as long as possible.
1) Hide/disguise the brain so it take longer to find
2) Rap all wires in Tap to make more of a factory look, again the more time it takes the more likely the thief will just walk away
3) Two sirens is very good take longer to find both and cut wires
4) Reduce the false alarms by making sure the sensors are adjusted correctly
There is a bunch of other goodies you can add like Pezos, under dash strobe lights, back up battery.

Ok you say the LED is on consent this is the Valet mode I am not positive on how to take your alarm out of valet mode so try a couple of things
1) Open the door, key off and hit button I, then button II then button I again, about a half a second between button pushes. What we are looking for is the light to go off; I know this works on newer alarms but not sure about yours.
2) If that doesn’t work Open the door, turn the key on and turn the Valet/Program switch to off. Then turn off the key. If this doesn’t work either I will need to research some material.

What we want to happened to make the alarm work correctly is when you hit button I the alarms arms. Parking Lights flash, the Siren has corresponding beeps and the LED flashes once every two seconds or so. Then when you hit the button again the alarm disarms. The why your doing it now seams to be working but it’s not correct.

As it happens two of our chapter members work at Directed and one is a viper specialist. If you keep having problems, PM me and I'll get you some contact info..

Before this thread gets too old, I just wanted to say thanks to all those who gave input on this thread. I have the alarm figured out and have successfully been using it for the past week.