Injector upgrade

Last week I noticed seepage on my #3 injector at the seam between the metal and plastic... so this is what I ended up doing. I know that some others out there have done this and I think some others are thinking about it. This was done on to an 88 chief 4.0 RENIX 5spd with 200,000 +miles and injectors of indeterminate age.

What I used
13mm socket
5/16 socket
T20 torx
Dielectric grease
an Awl
small dish to put gasoline in
mopar pt# 1-83503637 O Rings
mopar pt# 8350274 Repair kit (these are the new quick connects, 1 per pack)
6 Mustang 5.0, 19# type III fuel injectors

1. unhook your battery and all vac lines ect. that are in the way of the fuel rail. put your o rings in a small dish of gasoline to soften while you work.
2. unbolt the fuel rail, label each injector plug, take your awl and unclip the small metal springs that hold the plug onto the injector
3. release pressure from the schrader valve and undo the quick connects at either end of the fuel rail. A towel or such to soak up the gas that comes out is a good idea. pull all the old o rings, spacers, ect from the female end of the quick connects
4. rock the rail back and forth until the injectors let go of the manifold.

I had alot of crud built up in the manifold holes so I used a small piece of hose duct taped to my shop vac to suck it out...

5. Remove the clips that hold the injectors onto the rail and set them aside.
remove the fuel pressure regulator and take the o ring off and discard it.

6. Install the o rings onto the injectors and the fuel pressure regulator. carefully reinstall the pressure regulator
7. Install the new injectors onto the rail (I did not put any clips onto the injectors to hold them to the rail)

8. set the rail in place and rock gently to reinsert and seat the injectors.
9. put the spring clips back onto the electrical connectors, insert the new quick connects into their respective females...
10. reconnect the fuel lines and bolt down the rail.
11. connect the electrics
12. reconnect the battery and anything else that you unpluged.
start it up and watch for any leakage...

I am not resposible if you light your jeep on fire from following my instructions...
Some things I learned... you can get O ring kits at Napa for alot less than the dealer... you can also get the quick clips from standard motor products inc. part #HK7(car quest and auto quest?)
I got my injectors on ebay because im too poor to buy new right now... but check out fiveomotorsport.com they have the best prices that I found and are really nice to talk to. good luck and thanks to 5-90 for sending me some info on these injectors...

You're welcome.

Do you happed to have the part number for that O-ring kit from NAPA? I just started another MASTER Excel sheet for useful aftermarket part numbers, and I'd like to include that (I've got the SMP number for the clips - I'm assuming that's an "each" number?)

5-90,
no i do not have the Napa #... but they were significantly cheaper $4-5 for six rings (brown) and yes the smp number is for a single rebuild kit

xjwisconsin said:

5-90,
no i do not have the Napa #... but they were significantly cheaper $4-5 for six rings (brown) and yes the smp number is for a single rebuild kit

Click to expand...

Just thought I'd check.

I don't have the relationship with the NAPA that I do with the local I normally use, so they'll probably look at me funny when I tell them I want to go through their books for a couple of hours (which I need to do anyhow - "Echlin" is a house brand for them, and there's all sorts of useful stuff in there...)

Im going to pick up a set from Napa tomorrow to have as spares... Ill post up the part # for you

Thanks, I'd appreciate that. If you could happen to get the years and applications (just the Jeep ones,) that be appreciated even more...

Let us know if you notice any difference in drivability, pep, milage, etc...

I've heard the Ford injectors give a better spray, but haven't seen much in the way of impressions after the swap.

XJPhoenix said:

Let us know if you notice any difference in drivability, pep, milage, etc...

I've heard the Ford injectors give a better spray, but haven't seen much in the way of impressions after the swap.

Click to expand...

x2 I want to hear if theres an improvement in performance

we took a ride this afternoon for an hour or so... 50 miles? didnt really notice any thing different except the idle seemed a bit more even... I wasnt really thinking that there would be much hp/milage gain, but was more swayed by the one piece design and the better spray(4 holes=better mist= more even combustion)... seemed like less prone to failure

Those quick connects - aren't they similar to the ones used for the transmission cooler lines?

I've reused those without problem.....

Or can't you reuse these with the fuel system due to the gasket?

not sure how the tc lines work... I think you probably could reuse them if you used a proper disconect tool and knew that the o rings where new and in good shape... but from what ive read its not a good idea... and I had no idea how old things were in there

Makes sense, they aren't exactly the same.

Blaine B. said:

Those quick connects - aren't they similar to the ones used for the transmission cooler lines?

I've reused those without problem.....

Or can't you reuse these with the fuel system due to the gasket?

Click to expand...

Actually, fuel is a bit more antagonistic to elastomers than transmission fluid, so it's not wise to take chances with fuel connections anyhow. That's why I'm working on eliminating those goofy Ford-style fittings, and going with -4AN or -5AN fittings instead. Give me time... Gotta design a fuel rail, and figure out how to connect to/from the hardline, you know...

when I was looking for cheaper disconnects at Napa I looked at a bunch of gm/ford ect. on the Help! stand... thought about finding one that fit the inside ring of the "chamber"... then make a longer bushing to go between the two O rings to take up the missing long collar on the jeep connector. was concerned as to what material to use and if it would but undo stress on the O rings

The O-rings are probably either butyl rubber, nitrile, or maybe Viton - the spacers are 6/6 Nylon. So are the "ears."

I'd tossed around the idea of just subbing the o-rings (since they're the main seal anyhow,) but I haven't gotten around to measuring them, and I don't have any way to test them but drive around all day, and I don't want to flameout my DD...

All right, a little update, after getting one of the parts girls that had no Idea what I was talking about I seached and tracked down the number.
correct Mopar pt# 83502745 Repair kit. Here in Hawaii it is $21 each and I need all 3 for the regulator, small pipe off the regulator and the return side.
Just so people searching can find it better.
Jeremy