I have searched. My problem is as follows I have all my nuts/bolt heads out (broke 2 weld nuts)of the frame. The problem is that I dont have a welder to re-weld a new nut into the spring hangers(1 front and 1 rear) what is the best recomendation for a fix w/o a welder? Just use a new nut and bolt and deal with the little bit of play between the spring hanger and the bolt or make a bushing to take up the extra space? Or if anyone else has any ideas please speak up. thanks tim
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fixing busted weld nuts for rear springs
- Thread starter 435Mj
- Start date
CHUGLYxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ephrata, PA
for the rear, could also work for the front. Take off the rear bumper and find a way to hold a nut in front of the hole and run a bolt in. For this fix you really need a welder though from my encounters with the same thing.
peeweexj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Livingston, MT
I took my bumper off, took a sawzall and cut the opening bigger, put the bolt in there, cut the bolt shorter (with sawzall) so I could fit nut/socket in, then tightened it all up.
well I put a hole in the frame(rear) for one that fixed, and the one I had to notch the bottom out(front). Then I made to sleeves out of steel pipe to sit inside the large hole that the weld nuts centered that would also let the bolt pass through. Then to make sure it fosent pop out I slaped on a 1/2" betwwen the leaf bushing anf the nut box so that the sleeve gets pinched between the washer and the head of the bolt when torced down.
JEFF
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hamburg Mi
You can get to these under the back seat, pull the lower coution out pull the carpet back. eyeball and measure from the out side. then use a hole saw to cut a hole in the floor in the correct area, when finishid you can plug these holes with a body plug when done. By doing it this way it is hidden from site and you are not effecting the strenght of the frame rails by cutting holes in them.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Personally, I'd rather plate and gusset the inside of the unirail after I drilled a hole to access the inner nut, than rip out the interior to drill an access hole from above.....but I have a welder and skills.....
You could also sleeve the unirail for future access to the nut, but my experience has been that once you get it loose and/or repaired, some anti-seize prevents the issue from reoccuring.
You could also sleeve the unirail for future access to the nut, but my experience has been that once you get it loose and/or repaired, some anti-seize prevents the issue from reoccuring.
JEFF
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hamburg Mi
XJEEPER said:
The rear seat unclips on the passenger side, remove the jack assembly and push carpet out of the way, no need to remove any interrior trim. If your lucky (like me) my floor pan was already rusted through right above the nut-plate assembly
I guess you can do it either way, I saved myself a lot of fab time by going through the top, and used "that" time to get the bolt removed without breaking it off.
Handlebars
NAXJA Member #135
- Location
- Albuquerque, NM
I don't have a welder either! I just dropped off my Cherokee at a body shop and for a couple $'s they cut out these...
And replaced them with this:
And replaced them with this:
Onkover
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Red Bluff CA.
JB WELD!! LOL
