• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Front Big Brakes on a Budget

TNT

Seasoned Veteran
Location
S.E. WI
I am working on a design for some better front brakes.

Use the early syle knuckle '89 and down.


DiscBrakes20003.jpg


Some 3/4 ton Gm calipers or some oversize GM midsize calipers.

For rotors use Crown Vic or Sport Trac front rotors.

I would then only need to fab an adapter from the caliper to the knuckle using mounts like these with come custom pieces made so they bolt to the caliper.

aa-049-b.jpg


This should increase stopping power dramaticly and be under $150.00 to do.

Your input is welcome. Thanks.
 
i would like more info on this. the 35's are hard enough to stop going down hill with the 8.8.
 
3/4 ton or oversize metric calipers have 2.75" pistons for about 20% more stopping power. The Crown Vic rotors are about 11.5", Sport Tracs are 12". Both are about 1" thick. 3/4 ton brake pads are larger than the metric pads are but meant for 1.25" thick rotors. The metric calipers on Sport Trac rotors should just clear 15" from what I can tell at this point. Using the oversize metric caliper will raise the cost abot $50.00.

Stock rotors are 11" and are .75" thick. The calipers use 2.5" pistons.

These would be best used with the '95 booster master combo.
 
i got a 90 how would that work with the stock brack stuff?
 
TNT did you ever do anything with this? I think Gojeep had the right idea. find a set of rotors and a caliper that works with them, and fab a bracket that makes it fit. Just need to do the same thing here in the US instead of importing 50 pounds of OEM brake parts from AU for $700 bucks. THere's got to be a combo that would work with a small bracket.
 
I have researched it more.

I bought a '77 HP D44 and a '79 9" rear axle for my MJ. I couldn't pass up the deal, it only cost $200.00 for both of them.

I will be ordering all the parts for the 9" rear axle disc swap and will be using them for test fitting the the adapters and calipers on the D30. As soon as I have a set done they will go on my DD XJ.

Then they will be tested and another set will be made for testing by a friend.

I should have some results in about a month on the initial performance. If it works out I will do a write-up so you will be able to do it yourself.
 
I was just out looking for some good caliper that have a bracket and use a bigger caliper the last week.

I spent this weekend cutting the frontend and box off of a parts MJ so now I have a complete cab to extend the cab on my MJ.

So far the oversized metric GM calipers and mounts are the best choice I've found. I'm trying to source some brackets I found months ago, but lost the info when my computer crashed. They had better caliper supports and were made from thicker steel. The Sport Trac rotor should work to increase the rotors swept area and still fit a 15" rim.
 
I have my old '03 Mustang GT 2 piston PBR calipers sitting around collecting dust. The stock rotor was only 10.8", but I'm surer I could find one bigger that would fit since the same caliper is used on many vehicles. Think it would be worth trying to fit onto the front of my jeep? I've only had it a month or so, so I don't even know what the stock brakes look like yet. Just did my first oil change last weekend...
 
I coordinated my upgrade with new steering (read: more cost), but I went with WJ kunckles, rotors (just redrilled to 5 on 4.5), and calipers from the junkyard for $100, then new pads - $15, and JKS spacers $20, for a total of $135.

I can now lock up the front tires on a gravel road (with 33" TSLs).

My steering was $330 for .25 DOM tubing and GM 1 ton rod ends, and he welded the spacers and reamed the knuckles for me as well. It may be possible to use stock XJ steering, and just not use the high steer mount on the WJ knuckle until you can afford to upgrade.

And I will be adding a steering damper, but you could use the one you have and just by a bracket for $30.
 
The WJ swap is ok. Steering angles are relieved, braking is slightly better. the chevy stuff would probably be better. I don't run a stablizer and it's fine, I also think stock steering does fit the taper on the WJ pass knuckle.
 
gorman said:
How would the stock sized Powerslot rotors and Hawk pad combination compare to the WJ brakes? I'm contemplating either one of the two.

You miss out on the extra leverage that a larger rotor provides. It was the larger leverage of taller tyres that made the brakes worse in the first place so fitting larger rotors help combat that.
 
RyanM said:
The WJ swap is ok. Steering angles are relieved, braking is slightly better. the chevy stuff would probably be better. I don't run a stablizer and it's fine, I also think stock steering does fit the taper on the WJ pass knuckle.
What Chevy calipers are you thinking off that would be better then the original WJ calipers? Those calipers, some standard premium rotors (read not slotted or drilled) and some EBC pads should lock up 35 inch tires easily.
 
Vancopbs said:
What Chevy calipers are you thinking off that would be better then the original WJ calipers? Those calipers, some standard premium rotors (read not slotted or drilled) and some EBC pads should lock up 35 inch tires easily.
For some reason I was thinking this thread was talking about 44 outers. This thread (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=929850&page=2&highlight=chevy+outers+44) I said probably bc I figured the chevy truck stuff would be better. my wj brakes stop my 35s well. I was in the group that didn't feel THAT big of a difference from a regular dana 30, BUT did notice better brakes
 
basically you replace your vacuum booster with a hydrualic booster most systems tap into your p/s pump although some mustangs used an electric motor to build pressure

0608cct_05_z+chassis_powdercoating+hydro_boost_breaking_system.jpg


bc-36.jpg


with the motor sorry for the cheesy google pics
 
Back
Top