• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Removing Axles HP Dana 30

midnightXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake Tahoe, Nv
I have a lifted '98 XJ and I need to get the front axles out to fix the u-joints. Brake caplipers are off as are the 3 bolts holding the axle in on both side. The goddamn axles won't come out, bangin' on the thing, but nothing. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Todd
 
midnightXJ said:
I have a lifted '98 XJ and I need to get the front axles out to fix the u-joints. Brake caplipers are off as are the 3 bolts holding the axle in on both side. The goddamn axles won't come out, bangin' on the thing, but nothing. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Todd

put those 3 bolts back in, thread them in all the way, then back them out about 1/8", put a socket on one, and wack it w/ a hammer
 
You've been here 3 years, and still don't know how to get the hub out?

You could pony up for membership, and read the tech article about it (it came from a post I dashed off a couple of years back.)
 
Actually, it's not your axles that are stuck. It's your unit bearing.

Not sure just how hard this is on the unit bearing, but I used a gear puller. Make sure that, along with the three 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing in, you remove the 36mm bolt on the end of your stub shaft. Put the threaded end of the gear puller against the stub axle and hooked the arms on the spindle of the unit bearing. The unit bearing should pop right out. Your axle shafts should then pull right out of the axle tube.

When you re-install your unit bearing, clean the surfaces off the seal and apply a coating of antisieze. The unit bearing will release a lot easier the next time.

Les
 
Last edited:
I used a chisel and a BFH around the edge. Loosened up in no time. :D Easier on the bearing than using a puller or slide hammer.
 
LBEXJ said:
Actually, it's not your axles that are stuck. It's your unit bearing.

Not sure just how hard this is on the unit bearing, but I used a gear puller. Make sure that, along with the three 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing in, you remove the 36mm bolt on the end of your stub shaft. Put the threaded end of the gear puller against the stub axle and hooked the arms on the spindle of the unit bearing. The unit bearing should pop right out. Your axle shafts should then pull right out of the axle tube.

When you re-install your unit bearing, clean the surfaces off the seal and apply a coating of antisieze. The unit bearing will release a lot easier the next time.

Les
that's rough on the bearing les :)
 
OK boys ... now I understand it will put some stress on the bearing, that is why I said "how" much pressure. Depending on the amount of pressure you need to put on the puller to get the unit bearing to release will dictate the amount of stress. I wonder how much damage can be done with a BFH if you do not use some common sense? ;)

I don't know what the FSM says, but using a puller worked for me, and I was able to get it done (was necessary the first time only) without very much pressure and without destroying the bearing.

Les

PS: It is important to remove the 36mm nut because it takes mucho pressure to pull it with the bearing. :D
 
Last edited:
just giving you a hard time, don't get your wrinkles in a twist.
Geeze, these old folks can be touchy :)
Anyway, I consider the puller a better option than beating on it.
Frankly the last one I pulled was being replaced, so I just beat the snot out of it with a hammer because I was frustrated.
 
Having tried several ways, and harvesting a couple hubs along the way, I favor using 2 or 3 bolts, 12mm x 1.75mm, 100mm long:

Thread these in place of the (3) factory 12 point bolts and whack away with your weapon of choice, alternating the pattern of whacks.

I like to leave the 36mm nut on there if only to insure the bearing halves stay mated. Unless one has an impact wrench, they will want to loosen the nut before removing the hub bolts. The longer bolts will prevent the hub from falling (too far) out of the knuckle but will allow the hub to fully come loose... plus eliminating the chance of damaging or destroying the (uncommon) factory bolts

Unless losing a front wheel is your plan DO NOT DRIVE THE JEEP (or even put weight on it) without a stub axle in place, the 36mm nut torqued to spec, and a new cotter pin locking it down. The stub, washer and nut are what keep the unit bearing halves together.

Sand/polish the mating surfaces to remove rust and funk, then apply a coat of anti-seize to the tapered areas, threads, and splines before torquing them down. This step will make it much easier to remove next time.
 
87manche said:
just giving you a hard time, don't get your wrinkles in a twist.
Geeze, these old folks can be touchy :)
Anyway, I consider the puller a better option than beating on it.
Frankly the last one I pulled was being replaced, so I just beat the snot out of it with a hammer because I was frustrated.
You ever tried keeping boxers from wrinkling up into your crotch? :)

I should never post "unorthodox" procedures ... I know better than that. I'll rescind my suggestion!

Nice "write" Woody!

Les
 
Last edited:
LBEXJ said:
You ever tried keeping boxers from wrinkling up into your crotch? :)

I should never post "unorthodox" procedures ... I know better than that. I'll recend my suggestion!

Nice "write" Woody!

Les

It was MacGyvr Matt that passed that idea along to me... I'll admit that my first D30 hub attempt was one of the few times I got whupped. I set off an all-day carnival of dastardly deeds to that hub, and the backing plate... with no luck.

3 bolts and a dozen or so whacks (with a splittin axe) and it was out :D and the other side was nothing at all using that method.
 
woody said:
It was MacGyvr Matt that passed that idea along to me... I'll admit that my first D30 hub attempt was one of the few times I got whupped. I set off an all-day carnival of dastardly deeds to that hub, and the backing plate... with no luck.

3 bolts and a dozen or so whacks (with a splittin axe) and it was out :D and the other side was nothing at all using that method.
:laugh3:

You know, it's too damned bad that they did not stategically use a bit of antisieze when they built these things. I would have saved us a lot of cuss words.

And boys ... my appologies. It is awfully easy to damage the unit bearing using a puller.

Les :peace:
 
you wonder why they didnt use anti seize when they had duct tape on my wiring harness?
I think Jeep QA was a little poopy.
 
Back
Top