misfit8
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News, Virginia
Anyone done an ABS defeat or complete removal.
Or know of a tech write up on the subject..
Or know of a tech write up on the subject..
-
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ABS Question
- Thread starter misfit8
- Start date
LivinUpXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Williamsburg,VA
what year XJ, on my 99 i just pulled the fuses and relay
zachxj01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rockville CT
i saw a writeup about it on here at some point try the search
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
This one is sort of an outline for the crap Bendix system removal. Post '91 it would be different.
Uninstalling the OEM Anti-lock Braking System
Bones :skull1:
Uninstalling the OEM Anti-lock Braking System
Bones :skull1:
For the early model Bendix 9 system used from '89-'91, you can simply remove the ABS Batt fuse which disables the ABS function but retains the power brakes.
I removed the entire ABS computer, all of the sensors and tone rings and disconnected the lights in the dash. I slater added Ford/Lincoln rear discs to the axle. The power brake aspect still work fine and it has subsequently had the master cylinder replaced under the lifetime recall.
Feel free to let me know if this the system you have and if you have any other questions. I've spent some time working on mine over the last 6 years.
I removed the entire ABS computer, all of the sensors and tone rings and disconnected the lights in the dash. I slater added Ford/Lincoln rear discs to the axle. The power brake aspect still work fine and it has subsequently had the master cylinder replaced under the lifetime recall.
Feel free to let me know if this the system you have and if you have any other questions. I've spent some time working on mine over the last 6 years.
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
John90XJ said:
The problem with removing the ABS fuse is that you are still at the mercy of the ABS pump and other crappy Bendix parts to provide the braking power.
It's far better to remove the system and replace it than trust your life to a fuse and pump.
I found it is not necessary to remove the dash lights when removing the Bendix ABS stuff.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE PUMP FUSE AS YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR BRAKES COMPLETELY!!!
Bones :skull1:
Bendix survivor...
'cause you have to be able to trust your brakes.
In the 265,000 miles my rig has been rolling, all of the braking components have worked well and when they failed, it happened gradually.
The bigger issue is beyond the pressure accumulator, actuator (master cylinder) and pump. They are all components that wear at, arguably, the same rate as the commensurate non-ABS components of the same vintage.
I think the big issue is that the ABS function is/was crap. The brakes themselves seem to work fine. The ABS function was completely random as the rig got older. Disconnecting the ABS is a good idea. Having the rest of the components checked is also a good idea.
The bigger issue is beyond the pressure accumulator, actuator (master cylinder) and pump. They are all components that wear at, arguably, the same rate as the commensurate non-ABS components of the same vintage.
I think the big issue is that the ABS function is/was crap. The brakes themselves seem to work fine. The ABS function was completely random as the rig got older. Disconnecting the ABS is a good idea. Having the rest of the components checked is also a good idea.
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
BlueCuda said:
There is a tremendous difference between the pre '92 system (Bendix) and the '92 and later system. Removing the pump fuse on the pre '92 ABS system will remove your braking power as the Bendix system has no vacuum powered booster or master cylinder. With no pump power there is no brakes.
Bones :skull1:
Bendix survivor!
You're incorrect.Bones said:
The Bendix 9 system used from '89 to '91 uses 2 fuses, one for the ABS function, one for the main power supply to the pump system.
The removal of the ABS Batt fuse removes power to the ABS computer turning off that function. The power brakes continue to operate normally. If the wrong fuse is removed, the brakes fall back to standard non-assist hydraulic brakes. They require considerable effort but do not stop working.
They are no different at that point then standard brakes that lose their vacuum assist.
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
John90XJ said:
You have had good luck....great.
I had a pump failure and had almost ZERO braking power. To each his own, though I wasn't a unique case.
Remember the lawsuits that Chrysler incurred because of this system. The suits weren't for gradual brake loss; they were for near catastrophic brake loss.
I don’t want my family’s safety at the mercy of a fuse and pump.
Bones :skull1:
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Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
John90XJ said:
John,
Reread what I posted. I did not say you could not remove the ABS fuse. I said do not remove the PUMP fuse. You can remove the ABS power fuse and disable the ABS function. If you remove the PUMP fuse you will disable your brakes.
Go back and check what I wrote.
Bones :skull1:
My reason for removing the Bendix death trap
Last edited:
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
John90XJ said:
Have you tried to stop with the "wrong fuse" removed? I've had to stop with a pump failure. I was glad no one was in front of me. I had a car with non-power brakes and drums all around. It stopped, the Jeep "slowed slowly".
As for the Bendix system being equal to a standard brake system, I disagree. A standard system doesn't rely on a fuse and pump. Even if you disable the ABS system on the Bendix set up you still have your backside at the mercy of a pump and fuse.
Bones :skull1:
slowagon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Travis AFB CA
I have a '94 sport(what's left of it) that came with abs. I swaped out everything from the booster forward. I pulled the parts(booster, master cylinder, propotioning valve)from a 2000 with no abs. The swap was real easy. The only thing that was frustating was bending all new hard brake lines, because the old ones were crusty and somehow rubbing on the steering shaft. On older XJ's (pre 93 I think) the plunger rod on the booster needs to be swapped out or shortened. I also got an abs light on after the swap so I just pulled the bulb
. This swap will throw a code so you might want to check into it if you have to smog your ride. If you need pictures or more info there's a write up on this I found. I'll try to find a link.
:us:
. This swap will throw a code so you might want to check into it if you have to smog your ride. If you need pictures or more info there's a write up on this I found. I'll try to find a link.:us:
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
John90XJ said:
Thanks, yes the pics are mine (either of my XJ or ones I've taken).
Exterminating the Bendix death trap has been my passion since my brake failure. When mine failed I spoke with Jeep/Chrysler about changing the system to a non-ABS system. They told me it couldn't be done. It was easy to do on my own once I got up enough courage to forfeit my warranty on the ABS system. When I did it no one we knew around the Jeep forums had done it. The first cut was hard to do. It's something I think Jeep should have done with all the Bendix systems. I hate to think how many people have been harmed or killed because of this system. The Bendix engineer that designed it and anyone that green lighted its use should have been held criminally negligent for everyone that was harmed by it.
Bones :skull1:
6 inches to the left, more than 200 feet down...
Rusty Nail Trial, Moab
Bones
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mid Missouri
slowagon said:I have a '94 sport(what's left of it) that came with abs. I swaped out everything from the booster forward. I pulled the parts(booster, master cylinder, propotioning valve)from a 2000 with no abs. The swap was real easy. The only thing that was frustating was bending all new hard brake lines, because the old ones were crusty and somehow rubbing on the steering shaft. On older XJ's (pre 93 I think) the plunger rod on the booster needs to be swapped out or shortened. I also got an abs light on after the swap so I just pulled the bulb
:us:
Anything after '91 model year used a different ABS system. With the non-Bendix ABS such as you had, removing the ABS fuse would revert the brakes back to a virtual standard brake system as the '92 and up system has a vacuum booster to provide braking power, but removing it all still decreases the complexity of the system and failure/cost associated with the extra equipment.
It is important to clarify the difference between the two systems. misfit8 didn't clarify what system he/she had in the first post. I have spoke to the pre '92 system as it is what I have had experience with.
Bones :skull1:
It wasn't good but it wasn't worse than expected. It could have been due to having 4 wheel discs at the time.Bones said:
Well....we're all at the mercy of something.Bones said:
I'm certainly not trying to come off as being pro-Bendix 9. I just haven't experienced the same depth of problems some have. I tend to think my experiences are probably more the norm as they relate specifically to the brakes, not the ABS function. I've heard nothing good about the ABS. I've had enough trouble with it that I removed it.
For those that don't have the wherewithal to replace their brake system, popping out the ABS fuse and being vigilant about servicing their brakes is a reasonable alternative.