I don't like wiring

I need to wire some stuff up.

I've got two front lights, and possibly two more that I am going to be wiring up.

Two are a wal-mart lookin 5" round light, and the other two are factory fogs from an 04 Unlimited.

What gauge of wire should I be using? Any basic explanation on how to use relays in my wiring? And what the hell is with these switches I have, there are 6 plugs in the back?





This make sense to anyone?

without knowing the wattage of them, I'd say you'd want #16 minimum per light. You frankly can get away with #18 if you switch it right and keep splices to a minimum. But 16 would be fine. They're probably no greater than 55 watts each.

Do I need to have a relay for each light? or each pair? The front 4 (if I run 4) I'd like to run from one switch.

The rear I want to use the signal for the reverse lights as the switch. I need to fix my NSS first too tho.

The switches are labeled dpdt, dpst which means dual pole dual throw or dual pole single throw. pin5 labled as power, pin2 as ground. Remaining terminals power your accs. They switch both your power and your ground. Kinda overkill for a lighting circuit. A single pole single throw switch ran through a relay is all you need. I also just posted a reply in the oem section explaining relay wiring diagrams for a guy fixing his fog lights.(sorry I don't want to type it again-I type slow!)hope this helps

Most relays are rated for 20-30 amps. wiring in pairs shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't exceed the rating. Step the wiring up a little though maybe 14 ga...

Help me help you...

Figure out just what you want, and just how you want it to work, and then email it to me here (5-90 at dot org.) You're better off using a single relay per pair of lights, but you can run multiple relays off of one switch (as long as it's not too many - but you're not likely to run into "too many" anytime soon.)

I do need to know wattage of individual lamps - what they are now, and what you may go to later - so I can plan that for you.

Once you email me, give me about a day to come up with instructions for you, and go over them yourself (asking me if you have any questions!) I'll try to make them as Murphy-proof as possible.

Oh - and it would help if I knew what year your rig was - so I could see if there were any quirks you'll have to deal with. And, if you don't want to use that particular switch, let me know what you do want to use, so I can plan accordingly. About the only thing I won't be able to tell you will be how much wire you'll need - but I can give you advice on routing it.

That switch is a DPDT - double pole, double throw. What that means is that you can switch two circuits to one of two positions - at the same time - just by flicking the switch.

I'm not sure on the actual wattage of the lamps, one set came with the Jeep (all I know is they say super sport on them, they look cheap) and the other is a factory jeep set.

I do plan on sticking with the switches, I like the look and I've got them laying around. The ones I bought up there are the ON/OFF DPST switches. What it looks like to me is 5=12v 2=GND and the rest are for running to accessories (relays). That sound right?

I think I get how the switches work, next I just need to grab some relays and see how they wire up.

One thing I'd like to do if I can, is switch the rears with the reverse lights, and also have a bypass if possible with a rocker switch.

My Jeep is a 91 4.0 Auto.

Where did you get those switches? They look pretty nice.

Later,
Joe

www.4x4mods.com

they had a mixed review, but they released a new generation of them and discontinued the old, so I went for it.

10 bucks a piece.

Oh and the ones I bought are a double pole single throw, mine only have 4 pins on the back, so they make alot more sense now

Right now I am working on a switch panel, I removed my center vent that normally sits under the heater controls, and I am putting a brushed aluminum panel right there with 5 switches (front lights, rear lights, fans, locker, air) it should look good when I am done.

Speaking of which, since that has heat blowing out of it, I have a questions for people.

Do I need to worry about blocking that off? Will the heat damage the switches? I rarely use the vents, mostly defrost and floor heat, but obviously some might sneak by. I could use some input there.