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Rubicon Axle on XJ

can i? I probably could, but I wouldn't. I'm personally of the feeling that a high pinion dana 30 is going to serve better than a low pinion dana 44, and for the cost of a rubicon axle, you can buy a 30 spline axle kit and arb locker..
 
cal said:
can i? I probably could, but I wouldn't. I'm personally of the feeling that a high pinion dana 30 is going to serve better than a low pinion dana 44, and for the cost of a rubicon axle, you can buy a 30 spline axle kit and arb locker..

X2

The front 44 isn't worth the money to upgrade to, since it just has 30 outers on it anyway.

The rear you'll have to cut off all the coil link mounts, and truss it since it's prone to flexing/bending.
 
Rear will require new mounts. Front will fit. Price is relative. I found a set of rubicon axles and transfer case with 12K on them for 3500. Price having selectable lockers, gears and rebuild done to Front and Rear stock axles and tell me how much you will save. Strength is the same and you lose a small amount of ground clearance under the diff. I would not have looked for a front rubi 44, but it makes sense if the gear ratio and selectable locker are what you are looking and you get them as a set. I don't agree with the flexing/bending statement unless you are jumping or comparing to a heavy duty (heavy weight) axle.
 
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I would truss both the front and the back. The axle tubes on a Rubi front axle (the same as a D30) and any D44 can bend if you wheel them hard. I personally would truss both as I stated that way you have piece of mind.
 
well i got a front and rear for free with everything attached from my buddy cause i helped him custamize 1 ton axles on his rubi so he gave me the axles and all the ARB set up. is it worth it now? and we have new seals and cromolly shafts w/ 35 splines?
 
njsmuddyjeep said:
well i got a front and rear for free with everything attached from my buddy cause i helped him custamize 1 ton axles on his rubi so he gave me the axles and all the ARB set up. is it worth it now? and we have new seals and cromolly shafts w/ 35 splines?
yes free is way worth it as you could get a nice chunk of ching from selling them if you don't run them, I would run the front with out another thought, the rear will take a little work but if you are doing full widths in a rubi, you should be fine with hacking all the link crap and putting spring perches. my $.02
 
njsmuddyjeep said:
well i got a front and rear for free with everything attached from my buddy cause i helped him custamize 1 ton axles on his rubi so he gave me the axles and all the ARB set up. is it worth it now? and we have new seals and cromolly shafts w/ 35 splines?
They are not ARB's and require a "low pressure" air system.
 
I got a front end cheaper than any selectable locker. I got the pin-out for the factory compressor and switch if you need it. Jeepsareus sells all the factory wiring and stuff if you want it.
 
njsmuddyjeep said:
well i got a front and rear for free with everything attached from my buddy cause i helped him custamize 1 ton axles on his rubi so he gave me the axles and all the ARB set up. is it worth it now? and we have new seals and cromolly shafts w/ 35 splines?

35 spline? Not on a Rubicon axle. Are they custom made?
 
Gaius said:
35 spline? Not on a Rubicon axle. Are they custom made?


ARB makes a 35 spline d44 locker that will take shortened dana 60 shafts. I have that setup sitting in the garage waiting for time to install it.

The front however, won't take 35 spline. There isn't an outer knuckle that will bolt on and accept a dana 60 ujoint.
 
cal said:
ARB makes a 35 spline d44 locker that will take shortened dana 60 shafts. I have that setup sitting in the garage waiting for time to install it.

The front however, won't take 35 spline. There isn't an outer knuckle that will bolt on and accept a dana 60 ujoint.

I understand about the locker, but I'm talking about the outers. Did you find custom bearing or are you welding on 60 outers?
 
Look at that statement again, the second half implies that the first half is talking about the rear.

My front, I'm running a hp30, with a 30 spline arb, 30 spline outers and 30 spline unit bearings. I'm positive its stronger than a rubi44. ;)

-C
 
As stated before, not much difference. But you cant beat free 44's, locked, and geared to 4.10. Truss them and youll have a nice set up.
 
cal said:
My front, I'm running a hp30, with a 30 spline arb, 30 spline outers and 30 spline unit bearings. I'm positive its stronger than a rubi44. ;)

-C
how can you be so sure? Maybe a stock Rubi44 but the hp/lp vs. bigger ring gear, I believe if you had the same assembly from the dif out, that the rubi would be stronger because it is a bigger ring gear albiet on the weak side, and also you have the ability to gear deeper than 4.88. This has been an item of debate for me for a while, I just don't really hear of many people exploding rubi 44's and lots of people exploding D30 ring gears, although the rubi 44 is a much newer unit/not as many in circualtion. I have never blown up either as I am not much of a crawler, more of a go-fast so it more of a curiosity than a worry. It would be neat to have a spreadsheet showing all the different failures/circumstances of the most popular axle assemblies to check out and compare. If you have data that proves my thinking wrong I would love to see it, I have a very open mind to this and am curious to hear what others experiences are

what are the average strength decreases going from the strong side to the weak side?
 
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cal said:
Look at that statement again, the second half implies that the first half is talking about the rear.
-C

The rear is what I'm talking about. With 1.5 inch 35 spline rear shafts in the rear D44 housing, what are you using for seals and bearings?
 
Skullvarian said:
how can you be so sure? Maybe a stock Rubi44 but the hp/lp vs. bigger ring gear, I believe if you had the same assembly from the dif out, that the rubi would be stronger because it is a bigger ring gear albiet on the weak side, and also you have the ability to gear deeper than 4.88. This has been an item of debate for me for a while, I just don't really hear of many people exploding rubi 44's and lots of people exploding D30 ring gears, although the rubi 44 is a much newer unit/not as many in circualtion. I have never blown up either as I am not much of a crawler, more of a go-fast so it more of a curiosity than a worry. It would be neat to have a spreadsheet showing all the different failures/circumstances of the most popular axle assemblies to check out and compare. If you have data that proves my thinking wrong I would love to see it, I have a very open mind to this and am curious to hear what others experiences are

what are the average strength decreases going from the strong side to the weak side?

Most people that seem to kill d30 ring gears agree its from the pinion delfecting the ring gear / housing flex. I have a *highly* modified housing, sleeved in 3x.250" DOM, trussed, crane diff cover, all custom 3/16" bracketry, WJ knuckles, blah blah blah. Very few people kill ring gears on trussed 30's, usually just on stock housings.

Time will tell.
 
Gaius said:
The rear is what I'm talking about. With 1.5 inch 35 spline rear shafts in the rear D44 housing, what are you using for seals and bearings?


In my case, I'm changing the ends of the using to run grand torino big bearing ends and explorer brakes, but that said, Alloy USA offers the 35 spline arb/44 kit with the proper bearings and seals for a stock housing or for big bearing ends. Call them up and ask about it, I'm sure they would be happy to give you the part numbers, they are all about customer service.
 
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