Power Window Problem

I am having alot of problems with the power windows working in my 1993 XJ. The main switch is the only switch that can operate the power windows (4). The passenger window does not operate from the pass door. Also they typically do not work all the time. Is this a commen problem? What can be done about it?

Thanks for any imput!

Yes, common or nearly so as the voltage drops with age due to increased resistance from corrosion at the connection points. Get a volt meter and measure the votage at the switches to determine if there is any volatage at all. Do a search. There are a number of good write ups on improving window and door lock electrical functionality.

hmm. i was having an issue with my power windows on my 89 cherokee, all the windows were not working. i did that fix where you solder the tan wire to the yellow one but it didnt fix it. so i reversed it cause i wanted my window locks. i own a haynes manual but it doesnt have the right wiring diagrams, so then i decided to look at the stock jeep manual and there is a diagram of the fuse box (the one under the dash on the drivers side, to the left of the steering wheel) it shows the location of the "power window circuit breaker" it ended up having a blown 30a fuse in it. it looked like it was the OE fuse, so i just pulled it out and put a reg 30amp fuse in and then all my windows started working, granted they all had build up and dirt in the guides for the windows. (previous owner didnt do any mantainance himself so im assuming the windows had been out of commision for some time). 2 of the windows wouldnt budge but now i could hear them trying to work where before i could not. so i cleaned them out and lubricated them, now they all work pretty well. also i popped off my drivers side door panel and inspected the motor, the two wires had been yanked out so i couldnt just crimp them back together. i ended up haveing to solder them in place.

anyway, i hope this helps you solve your issue with your windows..

I am having this same friggin issue. I dont have the owners manual,...and the fuseblock hath no markings on it designating power windows.. which one is it?
I have a 1990 limited...therre are two silver items, i rather assume it may be one of them if it is in fact a circuit breaker.I thought they may be something other than a fuse.....Ill ohm them out...
Or i guess i could go look on the net...

ah HA! it is a circuit breaker, thermal type. but it looks on the inside of it as though the wires had ha enough. the current over time had melted the enamel off the wires. Well its black and tacky on the overcurrent wire inside.so it looks good, ohms good, but doesnt work. Im on my way to get another one.Or mabye a fuse...

On my 93 xj, I can roll down all the windows from the drivers seat but none of the passenger switches work. The power window lock switch seems to be broken, kinda makes a funny clicking sound. I'll be checking out the fuses today. If anyone rides with me, I'm always hearing roll my window down, roll it up, thats too far, down alittle more, etc....

Having the same exact prob on my 2000 cherokee

The lockout switch disables all the windows but the drivers window. In my 89 all the windows but the drivers window were getting slower and slower. I decided to check the harness and splices under the driver side carpet where the power window, interior lighting and power seats cross over to the right side under the carpet a common trouble spot. I had a small voltage drop through the lockout switch, after the connector behind the drivers kick panel and more after the splices. It all adds up. The 30 amp circuit breaker showed no resistance or voltage drop by mine. The voltage to the master window switch was good.
The power seat power wire (red) also comes from the same 30 circuit breaker and lays right beside the power to the right side windows in the harness under the carpet. I soldered the violet with black strip power wire for the windows to the power seat red wire. Did the same with the grounds and added a ground from the power window black wire before the connector under the kick panel to the dash brace bolt.
The end result was I bypassed the lockout switch and the ignition switch, doubled the size of the wire for much of the run and doubled the contact area at the connectors. Also soldered the splices under the carpet (under the tape) in the harness and cleaned the window switch connectors, the window motor connectors and the kick panel connectors. One nice side effect was the windows now work without the ignition being on and work a lot faster than before.
My best guess for your problem is the lockout switch is down (the passengers power windows are disabled), the lockout switch is faulty, the harness under the drivers side carpet is water soaked and the splices are corroded or the connector behind the drivers side kick panel is partially cooked.
If it's none of the above you may want to try my approach, more power, better grounds.
Not very elegant, but it works and saves having to walk back and turn the ignition on, when somebody forgets to put a window up. Not something I'd do if I had small children around though.

Thanks, I will look into it.