Washed engine - now runs like crap! HELP?

I washed my engine, I tried not to hit the vitals, but apparently I must have? Immediately after (leaving the car wash) it was very hard to start, when it did start, it would go to 2000 rpm for about 10 secs then idle back down, you could just bump the gas, it would stumble then go back to 2k rpm for 10 secs then idle back down again. If I try to drive it, sometimes it will run normal for a block, then either cut off or start idling high again. Last time out wheeling(the reason for the carwash) it got to about 220 degrees then came down to normal, so the check engine light came on, I did the key on-key off trick, pulled a 12, 21 & 22. The 12 is "battery disconnected", which I do not understand because it has not been disconnected. The 21 is "O2 sensor", it is new, it seems to come back every time I go wheeling and get it wet? The 22 is "coolant temp sensor", that came from it getting up to 220 last time out, which is a different problem I need to figure out (very rare occurance). After reading a ton of posts on here with very similiar symptoms, I figured the TPS would be a logical solution, well...... it didn't fix it. $45 for nothing! You don't adjust the TPS on a 95, right? Does anybody have a clue to what this could be?

let it dry out overnight and it should be ok. This has happened to me before

could be just time for new plug wires. The TPS in not adjustable.

Its dry, this happened last Friday.

The high idle sure sounds like a TPS and water issue. Did you make sure the plug was dry when you replaced it? Grab a tube of dielectric grease and squeeze some in there.

The stumbling sounds like a wet dist cap, pull it off and dry it out.

Let her run and dry out a bit.

It has been driven several times(5 miles or less each time) in the last week, I did put dielectric grease on the connection, no it wasnt wet, I did pull the cap and it looked dry(there was some dirty water residue in there from a previous trip or maybe this one?) and the contacts on the cap had a pretty good amount of corrosion on them and the rotor, I cleaned the corrosion off, it started up and ran fine, thought it was fixed, but the next time I drove it, it acted this way again. I have never heard of wires/cap/rotor making one idle up like this.

Getting water in the TPS is both common and terminal. It describes all of your symptoms.

old_man said:

Getting water in the TPS is both common and terminal. It describes all of your symptoms.

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Ya know...thats why I ALWAYS carry a spare. Most tempermental part in the FI system...

But he said he changed his out, and still has the problem.

Ya got me...disconnect the battery for about 10-15 minutes...it'll reset the computer...see what happens.

Like I said, I just replaced the TPS..... no fix.

No need to wait 10-15 minutes when disconnecting the battery to clear the computer. Just disconnect the computer, and for good measure while it is disconnected, turn the key to "start" for a few seconds.

By the way I've washed my engine maybe 5 times and I never had a problem afterwards..... So I don't have an answer for you regarding that.

1. disconnect battery
2. check every sensor and it's connector.
3. apply dielectric grease to all connectors(don't over do it, it can push pins out}
4 never, never, never wash an engine with water
5. reconect battery and let us know

Have you tried cleaning the ground wires on the passenger side of the engine block with scotch brite (Not water!) and the the other ground wires to the firewall? Also clean the battery ground clamp since you got a code for it! Poor variable grounds will make the idle cycle, run fast, slow it confuses the computer as the ground comes an goes.

silent_bob_662001 said:

4 never, never, never wash an engine with water

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Huh? What do you clean with then?

Like others have stated, I have washed my engine with water many many times. I often use some of the cans of "De-Gunk" or just spray "Simple Green" all over to help degrease. I've never had a problem, except once getting water under the distributor, which dried itself out within a day or clean it out myself.

Washing the motor does help, hoses and wires, even seals, will last longer if remove the gunk and corrosive chemicals that can build up and collect on those things. Of course there is always the risk the water can get somewhere it shouldn't and cause a short or problem.

If your not to wash your engine with water, then what do you use?

I suspect in this case, there is short deep in the wire harness or an electrical component you've gotten water deep into and it still hasn't dried out yet, causing your problem. In this case, I would NOT wash this engine again until you've corrected the problem that caused this and your confident it won't happen again.

Have you've tried running the motor long enough to get everything hot and evaporate any water out of everything?? I'm talking running the motor at full operating temp for a couple of hours.

I did pull the cap and it looked dry(there was some dirty water residue in there from a previous trip or maybe this one?) and the contacts on the cap had a pretty good amount of corrosion on them and the rotor, I cleaned the corrosion off, it started up and ran fine, thought it was fixed, but the next time I drove it, it acted this way again. I have never heard of wires/cap/rotor making one idle up like this.

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I'm not liking the sound of this, it may NOT be the problem, but I don't think you can eliminate it as NOT being a cause. When a distributor cap/rotor has a good amount of corrosion I just replace them. Yes, I'm sure many people have cleaned them and they worked fine, but they are fairly precise device to carry the ignition voltage, the gap gets to big and you can cut down significantly on the ignition voltage. As well, the residue, on the cap, the ignition voltage is so high that stuff that normally doesn't conduct, can conduct the ignition voltage. I've read, but never had, that carbon/dirt on the ignition coil can short the ignition energy and cause problems, I wouldn't be surprised if some salty residue in the cap can do the same.

If you due for an ignition tune-up, and it sounds like you are, I'd do it now and see if that helps. It can't hurt, you'll have to replace that cap/rotor, ignition wires and plugs every 50-75k miles anyway (well, more often for the plugs). You may just be knocking it out early.

My wife, when she was my girlfriend had an old GM car that was stalling out and running very rough, mechanics, her family had tried everything, It was at 90k miles and saw engine paint on the spark plugs. Look over the igntion and it all looked like it had never been changed during the life of the vehicle. New Cap/Rotor/Ignition Wire and Spark Plugs and the motor ran like new. Ignition problems can cause the car to idle very rough and stall out.

Rick, you made some good points, but like I said unless all you connecters are properly sealed and have had some type of dielectric grease applied I would never wash an engine with water. what is the purpose? If trying find a leak, clean the area with brake cleaner, run and recheck. If trying to degrease an engine that really needs it, than yes a pressure washer does wonders, BUT try to stay away from eletrical components or better yet cover them with plastic. In my years of turning wrenches I have seen corosion do some wierd sheet to an electrical system

An old cap can have an 'invisible' crack that will be a good short if any moisture is present. Maybe even more than one....

If you can feel a zap as you hold your wires, they absorbed moisture and may be shorting too (and it'll be a lesson you'll remember

I've washed engines for decades and never a problem, even on the XJ, by following a few rules:

- Don't spray cleaner into anything electrical, alternator, sensor, etc. It has a lower surface tension than water and will creep in.

- Avoid flooding electrical things with water, although getting them wet usually doesn't hurt. After all, they can get sprayed in heavy rain... Just don't force water on them hard and long.

- and most importantly: "hey Bubba! Keep that hose outta the carburetor! OK?"

Skip

Just for kicks I use some sort of degreaser (either household or some sort of automotive degreaser), then rinse it off with the garden hose and a nozzle.....I don't use a setting too intense....just a good rinsing is all.

If you used a power washer, I might see a problem.

Blaine B. said:

Just for kicks I use some sort of degreaser (either household or some sort of automotive degreaser), then rinse it off with the garden hose and a nozzle.....I don't use a setting too intense....just a good rinsing is all.

If you used a power washer, I might see a problem.

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Blaine has an excellent point. Evey time I had problems washing the engine and killing it as a result I used a high pressure car wash. It did no clean for sh@t.

When I used a spray can of foaming degreaser on a hot engine, then let it sit for say 10 minutes, they just gently hosed it off with a garden hose (cold water) I got a really clean engine and no restart or running problems. Works great on mixed oil, road dirt, and sand mixes on the oil pan, transmission and sides of them.

Brake cleaner also works good for cleaning limited work areas on the engine, particularly good on the top side and around the wires and sensors.

I have washed many engines in my day(at least 50 or so), and when I am trying to degrease one, I will use some kind of spray degreaser, but I was just trying to wash off some of the muddy water/dirt that splashed up under the hood. Also I have never had any problems from washing an engine because I tried to stay away from certain areas. I guess if you go to the well enough...... lol! Anyway, tomorrow I am going to replace the cap,rotor,wires and plugs just because they're due, and see if that helps. If that doesn't do it, on Sunday, Jeepsloth and I are going to troubleshoot this thing to the death! I will post up any new info asap.

Rick Anderson said:

I've read, but never had, that carbon/dirt on the ignition coil can short the ignition energy and cause problems, I wouldn't be surprised if some salty residue in the cap can do the same.

New Cap/Rotor/Ignition Wire and Spark Plugs and the motor ran like new. Ignition problems can cause the car to idle very rough and stall out.

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Well guys, Rick was right! When I had checked the distributor cap, I just popped it off and looked under it, I didn't pull any wires. During inspection today, I found the coil/coil wire connection had ALOT of corrosion! A new set of plugs, wires, cap & rotor and she's purring like a kitten! Still don't fully understand how that made the idle go up to 2k and then back down, but all that matters is that it is fixed now! Thanks guys for your input and Jeepsloth for letting me use your heated garage this morning!