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Project renix re-wire

T

tealcherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
renix4.gif


Oh...this is gunna be fun....

any tips/advise
 
Yeah - could you email me the pic? I'd like to shoot holes in it for you...

I've got an idea on a couple RENIX restomods I've got lined up to reorganise the wiring, eliminate the C101 bulkhead connector, and make logical subharnesses with Amphenol CPC's (Circular Plastic Connectors) and clean up that "relay centre" on the passenger fenderwell. It's a ways off, but I'd like to compare your notes with mine, and see about finding the best of both worlds...

5-90

5-90 AT naxja DOT org
 
Just take you time and double check everything. Evertime you have to leave the project make some very detailed notes so you know where you left off. I rewired the PDC (Power Distrubution Center) on my HO motor when the thing caught fire, melted into a nice neat ball of plastic. Over 40 some wires, not including the 6 or 7 maxi fuses that got relocated to the glovebox. Alot of notes and alot of checking different systems as you go will help alot.

Get yourself a set of (or the correct) node lights so you can double check the injector wiring and make sure there firing. And before you button up the harness for good, run a few extra wires through the harness, you may never need them for accessories but if under the very odd chance that a wire should break you can bypass the wiring with the addition wire you added. I would run about 4 from the firewall toward the "relay center" and at least 1 down the injector harness, i would leave a foot or more extra at the end then just tape the end back out of the way. Remember to put some heatshrink on the ends and smash the end with pliers while it's still hot, this will seal the wire until you need it.

And don't go cheap on the wire either, find the stuff with the thickest insulation and the most strands that you can afford. I personally have had good luck withe the belden wire from napa, but i only use it for non critical systems like the offroad lights. For critical systems i use the Painless wire, very expensive (or should be :laugh: ) but the first time you strip the end you can tell the quality of the insulation is alot better than most wire.

Oh yeah and remember to keep plenty or Whiskey or Tylenol around too.

Dingo
 
Last edited:
Dingo509 said:
Just take you time and double check everything. Evertime you have to leave the project make some very detailed notes so you know where you left off. I rewired the PDC (Power Distrubution Center) on my HO motor when the thing caught fire, melted into a nice neat ball of plastic. Over 40 some wires, not including the 6 or 7 maxi fuses that got relocated to the glovebox. Alot of notes and alot of checking different systems as you go will help alot.

Get yourself a set of (or the correct) node lights so you can double check the injector wiring and make sure there firing. And before you button up the harness for good, run a few extra wires through the harness, you may never need them for accessories but if under the very odd chance that a wire should break you can bypass the wiring with the addition wire you added. I would run about 4 from the firewall toward the "relay center" and at least 1 down the injector harness, i would leave a foot or more extra at the end then just tape the end back out of the way. Remember to put some heatshrink on the ends and smash the end with pliers while it's still hot, this will seal the wire until you need it.

And don't go cheap on the wire either, find the stuff with the thickest insulation and the most strands that you can afford. I personally have had good luck withe the belden wire from napa, but i only use it for non critical systems like the offroad lights. For critical systems i use the Painless wire, very expensive (or should be :laugh: ) but the first time you strip the end you can tell the quality of the insulation is alot better than most wire.

Oh yeah and remember to keep plenty or Whiskey or Tylenol around too.

Dingo
Click to expand...

Concur - you can't take too many notes on an electrical project - but I tend to assume things like that are known (and what happens when you "assume?")

One thing I like to do is to take a batch of brass key-checks (round disks about 1" across) and letter/number stamps, and make PERMANENT wire markers for loose terminals, then fit them with small (say, 3/4" or 1") split rings at the connector end. Can't lose track, don't smudge, and they last forever!

You can use the GM "noid" light - and get them fairly cheaply at most well-stocked parts houses. I think you can also use the Ford light - as long as you use the earlier one, either way. I think I got my "noid" lights for something like $3 each at my local, so I got a couple (no, I'm not giving them up...)

Belden wire is excellent, but most of it isn't designed for underhood environments (heat, oil, solvents, and general crap.) I like it, but I use it for chassis wiring. I need to find a new source for Painless wiring, that stuff is just plain AWESOME for underhood use! Most Painless stuff is outstanding, I just love it! Their harnesses are just amazing, and damn near install themselves (in my experience.)

5-90
 
I didn't think node sounded right, but then the sticker on my box has been gone a long time. I never thought about using brass tags. Do they rattle at all? I'm just picturing a engine sounding like a rattlesnake. If there are any wires that can get pluged into the wrong connectors i usually use colored zipties. i have them on the fual rail, and on the injector clip. i don't put them in the injector itself as i usally just pull them all, check them, change the o-rings, then reinstall them. i just bought a multi colored set of zipties from the dollar store and they work great.

The other thing i do is when i install my own weatherpack connectors, i either install them so that there is a male and femal on the same harness, or so that the terimals are reversed inside. never had a problem with them other than their size. But i haven't found a good (cheap) place to buy the Deutsch DT type terminals other than MSD and they want way too much for them. I try and use part that i can find locally so if i need emergency replacements i can get them quick instead of having to wait a couple days or weeks for a package to be delivered.

Dingo
 
I, like likely so many other renix-era XJ owners, find the wiring excessive and confusing and a PITA. While I admire your efforts, I can't help but think its a lot of work to retain the stock ECU. Personally, my plan is to essentially gut the entire wiring harness and start from scratch with a stand alone ECU. There are inexpensive options out there and the amount of control is tempting. Plus you can generally remove several portions of the wiring nightmare with a standalone.
 
I tend to prefer Delphi/Weatherpacks over Deustch, but that's just me. The WP's are easier to work with.

No, the brass tags don't rattle. At least, they don't on my four. They're small enough that they usually don't hang against anything metal, which would make them rattle. Then again, I tend to have a lot of chassis noises anyhow (if I wanted a quiet ride, I'd have bought a Lincoln or a Caddy, no?)

I also just happen to prefer RENIX over OBD, but I'm about as quirky as RENIX is. I am considering other options tho - if I can get a GM V6/DIS system donated to me, I'd like to see about adapting it to an AMC242 (I've GOT to build a run stand...) and I'm also considering experimenting with the MegaSquirt, by Broce Bowling and Al Grippo (Google it.) The GM system is the only OBD-I/II system I really give a damn about, probably because it's the most adaptable, most programmable system I've heard of and because parts for it are everywhere. I like fuel injection, but I don't like needlessly complex systems (which opinion has gotten me into trouble with others here, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.)

And, there's nothing really wrong with the stock RENIX ECU - just the way AMC organised the wiring. THAT'S what I'd like to fix with my rewiring project - simplify the wiring, probably save ten pounds by the time I'm done, and eliminate that damn C101 bulkhead connector that gives us RENIX owners so much trouble...

5-90
 
TEAL,

Go one step further and offer Painless your detailed notes for a production harness. Measure each wire, adapters, etc. I know i would have interest in a set. Or maybe make two sets of harnesses and i'll buy one from you? I have the rats nest in my 88.
 
In case you run into problems, I have the complete factory electical diagnostic and troubleshooting manual (not the standard FSM). It is extremely complete.
 
old_man said:
In case you run into problems, I have the complete factory electical diagnostic and troubleshooting manual (not the standard FSM). It is extremely complete.
Click to expand...

Is that titled "Renix multi-port fuel injection" or some thing, if so you sent me a copy of it before, and its much appreciated, and has been very helpful.
 
5-90 said:
I tend to prefer Delphi/Weatherpacks over Deustch, but that's just me. The WP's are easier to work with.

5-90
Click to expand...

Yes the WP are easier to work with, but being limited to only 6 wires in such a huge housing kinda sucks. i have a fuse/relay panel in the back of my XJ that has about 10 fuses and 8 relays. Because of the limitations of the WP i'm left with 5 connectors. With the Deustch i would only have 3. On the other hand a day at the wrecking yard and 5 bucks will get me plenty of housings and some usable seals and a few plugs. so they are cheaper for sure and i have never had a problem with them corroding either, they're just so damn big to only run 16G wire through.

Dingo
 
If the connectors are in a "controlled environment" (viz. inside the cabin, and you don't go swimming much...) you can use a Molex connector - they go up to 15 cavities, probably more. And, they'll handle larger wires, so that's not a problem either.

Or, go with Amphenol CPC's (Circular Plastic Connectors) if the environment is NOT controlled - you should be able to source both from Allied Electronics (www.alliedelec.com, as I recall.)

Tom - what manual are you referring to, and is there any way I can get a copy?

5-90
 
NO, the book I have is strictly electrical. I haven't had time to scan it and it has tons of fold out pages that are too big for my scanner anyway. Maybe I can take a couple of hours to scan it, but first I have to fix a plasma cutter that has been waiting for 6 months.
 
The book has been out of print for some time. It shows every wire, every plug, every harnes in the whole vehicle along with troubleshooting info. I have been wanting to scan it for a long time but I have been working 70 hrs a week since the first of the year. I'm cutting back to 50 so maybe I will have some time. Right now I am building an HP44 and fixing a couple of plasma cutters.
 
old_man said:
The book has been out of print for some time. It shows every wire, every plug, every harnes in the whole vehicle along with troubleshooting info. I have been wanting to scan it for a long time but I have been working 70 hrs a week since the first of the year. I'm cutting back to 50 so maybe I will have some time. Right now I am building an HP44 and fixing a couple of plasma cutters.
Click to expand...

could you post the title and isbn for the book, id love to find it
 
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