URGENT- HELP NEEDED NOW - distributor

OK, I'm a novice mechanic, and may have dug myself a hole here.

I just swapped out my distributor.
I did not do TDC like the manual says, but used the "out and in at same position" method described in many threads here.

First time in, it wouldn't start. Second time in I made a slight rotation towards what I thought was the right direction. I could not tell AT ALL how many teeth shift I did. I could not get a sense of the teeth passing each other no matter how I rotated/pressed/jiggled as I shifted it.

It started right up real good and ran strong around the block, but approaching the house I got a rough idle (oscillating a bit, and choppy). The engine light is now on and throws codes 1391 & 108.

1391 is cam/crank synchronisation, I think.
108 is a MAP overvoltage code.

Please if anyone is out there right now - reply quick. I have an hour or so before work in the AM to try again, but I want to hear what you have to say first.

Thanks...

from Dino's pages.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
You'll likely have to start over and index the distributor, just like it was brand new.

Crap, Jeep info:

'96 4.0, stock engine

OK, have gotten CKS to TDC, but now the dist. housing will not line up with hte bolt hole if I follow the procedure at Dino's page.

The dist. housing is about 2 degrees off in the counterclock direction. - so it won't allow bolting in with the retaining pin still in place. If I pull the pin, of course it will let the housing rotate that little bit - but that seems to be a bad idea.

Anyone got time to help/advise?

You're just going to have to keep trying, remembering that the distributor shaft will rotate some as you insert it. Use a screwdriver to turn the slot in the oil pump to the position you think it should be in after that rotation, and install the distributor with the casing lined up correctly for the bracket, and the shaft rotated a few degrees shy of the desired position. It should then rotate a little and drop into the slot. You then must try to verify that it's in the right position, and if it isn't, try again until it is. On this engine, because timing is not adjustable, you cannot compensate by turning the distributor body.

Matthew-
Yes, I know to fiddle... But one tooth clockwise puts me more than a few degrees off in the other direction. Seems like the teeth are about 27 degrees each (360deg/13teeth=27.69deg...)

Anyhow, just put it back in and am about to start her up. I'll post again in a few minutes.

Well allrighty then! She runs! Yahoo!~

No trouble lights after 4 off/on cycles, and a trip up and back the block.
Since I got the codes after two off/on cycles last time, I think its OK now.

Just to close out my "panic thread" -
Seems that TDC by marks may not get you PERFECT allignment.

I'm working alone, so I couldn't check to see if this was caused by play in the timing chain (other threads point to that as a posssibility).

Also, as an FYI - Once I got the marks at the factory notch and lines lined up 'just right', I scribed marks on the pulley and oil pan where I could see them better next time. The new marks will only be 'perfect' until the pan seal gets replaced, but that'll be a while. Made double and triple checking TDC easier with that mark.

Thanks to 87manche and Matthew, as well as a BIG thank you to Dino for his page with the writeup.