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Paint costs recently

Wallyman

NAXJA Forum User
Anybody had a recent (last 6 months or so) Maaco cheaper paint job?

Ive got the JeeP painted in "krylon flat black" but i think i want to get a little better paint job on the 1990 4 door.
Just fishing around to see what they charge for a sand it down to the primer job... Not looking to make her a show-stopper.I mean i make my fun by endangering shopping carts so scratches are inevitable.......
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Having had a body and paint shop for some years, I can tell you that if you REALLY painted your car w/ Krylon spray cans, you had better discuss this w/ whomever does your paint.

Most shop primers and topcoats are not compatable w/ rattle can paint, and some sealing may have to be done between products. Otherwise, the next layer of paint may react w/ your present topcoat crazing, lifting, or failing completel.

Bob
 
I agree with Bob. I painted an old fender with krylon one time. Put a good coat of primer on, then wet-sanded and painted. There was one tiny spot where the wet-sanding went thru the primer to the original paint, and the krylon had a reaction with that ... wrinkled up really bad.

You should consider repainting it yourself with marine paint ... you can do it for less than $100. Marine paint is designed to be "self-leveling," meaning you can apply it with a brush and roller, and it smooths out to a beautiful gloss. Finish it up with a wet-sand and polish, and you have a beautiful, durable finish. There's a thread on this subject in the moparts.org forum that has gotten thousands of posts. Many people have used this method and gotten gorgeous results -- even with Rustoleum paint. (I intend to use the marine paint). I've been studying this method for about 8 months now, and I'm convinced it's going to work for me. It should produce results at LEAST as good as maaco.

Here is a webpage from a guy who painted a Corvair with this method and got amazing results: http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Here is the link to the Moparts.org forum: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...QuestionAnswer&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=66

Here is the company that makes the marine paint (which is much better than the rustoleum): http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa//product_guide/finishes_undercoats/US_brightside.asp? The name of the paint is "Interlux Brightside."

Here is an online seller of Interlux Brightside: http://www.boatersland.com/intpaintfin.html

Many people will laugh when they hear of this method -- I did at first. But after you see the results, you'll be sold too. Give it a chance and check it out. You'll be amazed.
 
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For a decent BC/CC urethane paint job plan on starting about $1500.00. Urethane is your most durable finish and will last the longest. But you must use all urethane products incl. primers, etc. to see the benefits. This can easly double the materials cost hence the higher costs. "Maaco" type paint job are enamels or urethane modified enamels which won't last as long or be as durable. These type of paints can still work well for an older vehicle or a trail rig where the best finish isn't so important. If your doing your own body work prior to sending it out for paint I would still use urethane primers. Spray can/Laquer type primers can be non-compatable with currant paint products. They are also not waterproof, and can actually hold moisture against the body like a sponge if let sit for a period of time. The paint shop you are planing on useing should be able to tell you what products to use so check with them first. You can save money by doing sanding/preping and disassembly youself, just consult w/ painter first so that the prep work is done in a way that is compatable with the paint you are using (ie. proper grit sandpapers etc.) hope this helps
 
A note not just on paint but when I had a little fender bender in November, Macco actually wanted more then a very Legit body shop that I ended up taking it too

With me supplying the fender, and not having the bumper or endcaps replaced they wanted about $1200 to do the headerpanel and fender plus paint

The place I took it to did it for $1000 and some minimal change plus they replaced the stripe, the Jeep logo on the header panel, and bent the bumper back out as well as putting a quality bc/cc finish on the fender/header and matching it pretty darn well

I was suprised at the Macco price considering the results would have been very different
 
Wallyman said:
Thanks MontanaMan,
Thats good to know.I think ill give it a shot. I scored the XJ for 1200 cash and i dont want to spend more on the paint than i did the Jeep
You're very welcome ... I got my '91 for $800, and I'm now into it about $3500, including new motor and many other goodies. I plan on keeping it forever, and I want a really high-quality paint job, but I'm not going to spend 2-3 grand on paint.

If you want the best for your XJ, you can even get a two-part polyurethane marine paint for about $175 per gallon. Interlux "Perfection" is the name. It's just as good as the high-end paints used for cars.

It comes with a seperate hardener, which contains isocyanates. BUT ... it's much, much safer to use this roller method. Turns out the isocyanates don't evaporate into the air very well ... so it's very safe to paint them with a brush and roller. Just use a good, tight-fitting respirator with new filter cartridges rated for organic vapors.

If you *spray* with isocyanates, you are talking a whole different ball-game; you don't want it on your skin or anything. You need complete body coverage, and preferably a fresh-air breathing system.

About the only downside to the 2-part "Perfection" paint is that I don't think it comes with a clear-coat option.

This rolling system works, and it produces gorgeous, extremely durable results.
 
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